Fuel Gauge stuck on full

Referring back to a post I made in Sept 2001 wrote:
The fuel sending unit is a variable resistor controlled by the action of a float arm. When the fuel level is low, resistance in the unit is low (Empty = 17 ± 2 ohms). When the fuel level is high, the resistance is high (156 ± 4 ohms).

Wire number 1203 (BK/LB) is connected through connector C441 (Left rear of vehicle) and C1046 (Inside left frame rail, near 4WABS module) to G204 Ground (Lower left corner of support [fire] wall. Wire 29 (YE/WH) is the signal going through connector C441 (Left rear of vehicle), C1046 (Inside left frame rail, near 4WABS module), C141 (Lower left corner or dash) and C205 (Left of steering column, behind I/P) to the Instrument Cluster.

At the time, I had a 2001 Residency. The gas gauge quit working soon after I bought it. I had to by pass the wires to the sending unit when I figured out there was no connectivity between the dash and the tank.

After I dropped the tank and check the ohm readings on the sending unit, put it back in and raised the tank back up, the engine wouldn't run because the fuel pump wasn't pumping. I dropped the tank again and pulled out the pump. I found the Siamese 1/4 inch spade connector on the pump had lost its tension and burned up the connector. I cut the connector off the end of the wire and replaced it with individual 1/4 inch spade connectors. I put another 40,000 miles on it and the fuel pump was never an issue again.

Back to the sending unit. I traced the wires along the frame rail. There was a connector close to the tank. When I shorted it nothing happened. The gauge should have gone to empty but it stayed on full. I found another connector alongside the emergency brake. When I shorted the wires there, the tank went to empty. I knew then the wires lacked connectivity between that connector and one near the tank. I bypassed that wire and the gauge worked great afterwards. I never replaced the sending unit or the fuel pump during the 16 years I owned it.

When the gas line to the generator started sucking air later on I wasn't going to drop the tank again. I had a pass-through compartment above the gas tank so I cut a hole though it to expose the tank and sending unit/fuel pump flange where the generator gas line comes out. It was a tight squeeze to get at but it was a lot easier than dropping the tank again.

I saved these notes - they pertain to the wiring diagram I had for my 2000 vintage F53 chassis and helped me locate the wires to the tank:
Wire number 1203 (BK/LB) is connected through connector C441 (Left rear of vehicle) and C1046 (Inside left frame rail, near 4WABS module) to G204 Ground (Lower left corner of support [fire] wall. Wire 29 (YE/WH) is the signal going through connector C441 (Left rear of vehicle), C1046 (Inside left frame rail, near 4WABS module), C141 (Lower left corner or dash) and C205 (Left of steering column, behind I/P) to the Instrument Cluster.