NinerBikes wrote:
To properly tighten the injector lines on a Bosch pump and injectors, like on your Cummins, you must loosen both ends, at the injector pump, and at the injector, and THEN snug them up gently first at injector, and then at injector pump, to align them properly, with a special 17mm crow's foot, or flare nut wrench, then bring them up to full torque, about 17-20 ft. lbs.
The flanges on both ends must be aligned on the seats perfectly, otherwise you will get leaks due to lack of proper alignment of the high pressure fuel line tube.
This is the only way to do it right and assure not getting fuel leaks. It's following proper procedure that prevents leaks such as this. You may have etched the fuel line flange from fuel leaking for so long that a fuel injector line may need replacement, worst case scenario.
Check your work, warm up the engine with a drive, fully, then give a few full throttle up hill driving applications under full load, then check and verify there are no fuel leaks at the union nut joints on the injector pump and the injectors.
I would do half of the fuel lines, loosen and retorque them, do a drive, so that all the air bleeds out of them and the motor is running on all cylinders, then do the other 3, rebleed them at idle until again running on 6 cylinders, and then do a thorough test drive. Doing half and half prevents having to do a complete rebleed of all the injector lines and abusing your starter battery and motor. It will run on 3 cylinders until the other 3 lines bleed themselves of air and start running again.
The lines were tighten by the mechanic at the Love's Truck Stop in Bowling Green last year with the Cummins shop foreman on the phone while it was done. The procedure was discussed between the mechanic and Cummins, and Cummins reimburse me when I returned to Rochester, NY.
I di not believe they leak at all now, and the problem was all a result of the insulation being saturated.
See the fix below (currently working on it, the post).
