Fuzion 342 Questions

DutchmenSport wrote:
Water pump: They are all loud. You just have to get use to it. Actually, water pumps run very, very, very quiet. If you were pull the pump and turn it on, you'd barely hear it run, or hum. What you are hearing is the vibrations amplified through your camper's plumbing. There have been countless posts on this forum site for ways to quiet the system down. But the one that seemed to work the best was the guy who addatched a bunch of garden hose from the output of the pump to the trailer's system. All the pumps vibrations when through the garden hose and by the time the vibrations reached the end of the hose, there was no vibration. He said it ran very quiet. That was probably the best fix I've ever heard of.

This is the first one that we have ever had that has been this loud. I'm not really impressed with the performance so I was wondering about getting a better one to upgrade to and mount it better/try some different plumbing like the hose setup. I wondered if anyone has used a variable pump before and if you liked it.

About your hot water faucet.... the problem is not the plumbing, the problem is the faucet. You just have to turn the faucet on more. Change the faucet or remove it completely, and you'll have tons of water.

I should have made this more clear. It's not a supply problem from the house or anything. It's while we are using the pump from the tank and it's all the faucets in the camper. Our outdoor one, the kitchen, and the bathroom ones. Also when we use the shower on the pump after the pressure drops on the cold side it scalds the **** out of you because it seems like the water heater is holding pressure longer. Like a check valve sticking... We haven't actually stayed in a full hookup campground yet, just state/national parks where there is only electric service.

No help or suggestions on the refrigerator.

All water heaters are installed with a rocker arm on-off switch at the water heater (outside). Some RV manufacturers on some models will double switch them with a second switch inside the camper. They are on a series, which means both switches have to be on in order for the water heater to be on. The rocker arm on the water heater is a safety feature, so if the water heater is drained, it can be turned off right there, so if the switch is accidentally flipped on inside the camper, the electric heating element will not turn on with an empty tank and immediately burn out and be ruined.

I know how and why they work, I just wasn't sure if they had a kit already available for the install of an interior switch. My parents Cameo has a regular 120v wall switch in the bathroom next to the gas switch. My in-laws camper has theres next to the water heater inside. Our old camper was gas only so we haven't had an electric one of our own.

No comment of your fuel station. I've never had one.

BFL13 wrote:
On the hot and cold water issue, check that the by- pass valve set up for winterizing has been put back the right way around.

I already tried that. I was hoping it was the issue but it didn't help any. This is the one that has the central hookup area with all the valves and what not in one area. I tried to look at them from the back but they are hooked up so weird. We were trying to add a whole camper filter and I didn't have time to really look at it too long. Now I will make the time.

On the electric hot water, you can control the on/off from inside with the circuit breaker for the HW. Actually, with ours it shared with the microwave so it had a three way MW/off/HW switch.

The HW was plugged onto a wall receptacle that went to that switch and the circuit breaker. If you don't want to use the circuit breaker as a switch, just un-plug and plug in. Or else use a power bar that has its own switch that might come out where you can reach it better.

I'm afraid to do it that way with the breaker and forget it. I was wanting to use a lighted switch so that I can see it on from the command center, it has a frosted glass door that you can see the lights through. I have been known to forget it from time to time but I don't normally drain the water heater until the end of the season so at least there is something in there.

DutchmenSport wrote:
Don't know how yours is wired, directly into or uses a plug, but if you can tap into electric line going to the water heater (before that rocker arm switch), you can run the wire anywhere you want in the camper. Then go to your local RV parts store or dealership and have them get you a new interior switch used for water heaters. Install it anywhere you want inside the camper. The problem will be finding a way to path the wire so it's hidden and going through walls may be an interesting challenge.

I added switches to the main house lights in my new 5er. This was the first modification I did. The house lights switch are located behind a door panel with all the other switches, and very high up. I tapped into the wiring and ran 2 new wires and located a new switch (2 of them) in a lower, more convienent location. However, in order to do so, I had to remove the microwave and remove part of the interior of a couple cabinets, and drill holes inside the cabinets to locate the new switches. End result is, I can use either switch, but the original has to be turned on all the time for the new second switch to work on-off. (Not in a series). It works. I got the new switches from my local RV dealership that sold Keystone RV's.

I also re-ran the wire and a switch for the bathroom lights. I had to get a second switch, and just left the original one in the bathroom there, dead, (removing would have left a hole), and the new one is now in a good location, and works just fine.

So you, you can double switch your water heater. I advise getting the right one from your RV parts store and take the time to route the wire wherever you want to put it. FYI... routing wires in RV ... you REALLY have to get creative. Wall are not like they are in houses!

Dusty R wrote:
I like adding a 1 or 2 gallon pressure tank to the water system.