General wiring misunderstanding on Nash22H
Hi, I have a 2001 Nash 22h that is new to us. I just modified battery brackets to accept 2 new Trojan 6V T105 batteries. At same time I installed a Pico master disconnect switch rated for 300A continu...
Forum Discussion
Alright, well thanks for all the good help. It appears my battery cables run from the batteries to power distribution panel, then on to converter so by installing switch near converter I have only accomplished being able to disconnect the converter which isn't my intention. So I will move my switch to the cable between panel and batteries. That will open the main battery circuit. I will pay attention to the break-away switch and see how I can power it up always, I agree this is a good idea.
For my voltage drop concern: The converter went into normal mode this morning only pushing about 2 amps and 13.7 volts. The voltage and amperage was exactly the same at battery terminals as at converter connection. Strange how when charging at 21 Amps my amp measurement was exactly the same at the battery terminal as at converter connection, yet voltage was .7V lower. There has to be some electrical law that says no, if voltage is lost in a circuit somewhere, so will current, therefore current flow should have been lower. Ill have to try this again. I am going to assume for now that the .7 volt drop I saw when charging at 21 Amps is because its a long cable, perhaps it should have been made with larger gage. But, I will continue checking connections and have plans to eliminate crimp on butt connectors. The connections I made use solder on type copper lugs. I did check voltage drop across the switch and through my 6 V battery connector cable, and the cable had 7 MV and the switch had 26MV--wouldn't both be considered acceptable? Connector cable being the 2 foot cable I made to connect 6V batteries in series. I have not done voltage drop across the entire positive and negative circuits from batteries to converter, just checked those 2 things since it is so easy.
As far as polarity is concerned, yes it was correct. Just needed some reassurance from you all that I didn't have battery cable colors confused in my mind. If any of you ever use a clamp on type amp meter, and pay attention to whether the + sign is pointed toward the battery + side, this only applies during discharge. So when I was checking furnace blower amp draw, the + sign pointed toward battery + terminal, and the display read 6 A. However, during charging this will be reversed, I THINK... It really doesn't matter, if you don't point the sign toward its respective battery terminal the display will simply put a negative in front of your reading. The reading will still be the same, -6 A for my furnace for example. I think anyway.
And sorry Jim, my posts makes my eyes hurt too. I thank you all for the advice.
For my voltage drop concern: The converter went into normal mode this morning only pushing about 2 amps and 13.7 volts. The voltage and amperage was exactly the same at battery terminals as at converter connection. Strange how when charging at 21 Amps my amp measurement was exactly the same at the battery terminal as at converter connection, yet voltage was .7V lower. There has to be some electrical law that says no, if voltage is lost in a circuit somewhere, so will current, therefore current flow should have been lower. Ill have to try this again. I am going to assume for now that the .7 volt drop I saw when charging at 21 Amps is because its a long cable, perhaps it should have been made with larger gage. But, I will continue checking connections and have plans to eliminate crimp on butt connectors. The connections I made use solder on type copper lugs. I did check voltage drop across the switch and through my 6 V battery connector cable, and the cable had 7 MV and the switch had 26MV--wouldn't both be considered acceptable? Connector cable being the 2 foot cable I made to connect 6V batteries in series. I have not done voltage drop across the entire positive and negative circuits from batteries to converter, just checked those 2 things since it is so easy.
As far as polarity is concerned, yes it was correct. Just needed some reassurance from you all that I didn't have battery cable colors confused in my mind. If any of you ever use a clamp on type amp meter, and pay attention to whether the + sign is pointed toward the battery + side, this only applies during discharge. So when I was checking furnace blower amp draw, the + sign pointed toward battery + terminal, and the display read 6 A. However, during charging this will be reversed, I THINK... It really doesn't matter, if you don't point the sign toward its respective battery terminal the display will simply put a negative in front of your reading. The reading will still be the same, -6 A for my furnace for example. I think anyway.
And sorry Jim, my posts makes my eyes hurt too. I thank you all for the advice.
