Generator to Run 15K AC + Residential Fridge In a TT?

[BuffaloIndian]

TT in question is a large 2-slide with 15K air. This spring I replaced the failed Dometic OEM with an 8 cubic foot residential fridge, and have been happy with it. Everything stays cool for the distances I am driving. However, I want a generator to pair with the fridge on the rare occasion I am towing the unit for a day or more. I am thinking it might be prudent to have one that will run both the AC and the fridge when there is no shore power.

I have doubts that either the Honda or Yamaha combos will be enough. Looks like you have to go all the way to 5500W to do much better, there doesn't seem to be much available in between.

Anyone have any experience with this set up, or recommendations?

[Struv]

C.B. wrote:
Glad I got my Honda EU6500is. Use it for power at home or on the road.

Honda has now come out with a fuel injected model EU7000is.
Thinking about getting rid of my 5,000 Honda Construction gen and replace it with a 7,000is


Twin Honda 2000's actually only give you 3,200W not 4,000.

I'm told a 15,000BTU AC needs 3,600W to start. Found that to be true with my Sons Cedar Creek. It would kick out the twin 2,000s. Putting in a Supco SPP-6 hard start capacitor cured that problem.

C.B.

2 EU2000's 3,200 watts continuous, 1 EU7000is or 1 EU6500is 5,500 watts continuous. All will run full load for over 30 minutes.

[Almot]

MrWizard wrote:
The camper fridge uses 300+ watts for the heating element
More running power than the compressor in the residential fridge

Yes, but nobody runs a 2-way fridge in 120V mode while camping off-grid. In LP mode it only draws 5 or 7 watt, which can be easily handled by a battery. It does take 1.5-2.0 lbs of propane a day though.

If I will ever go for compressor fridge, it will be a small DC unit ~6 c.f., 50-60W running, no start up spike - because it's DC. Will - probably - have to add another solar panel, but don't plan on delegating this task to any generator. The only thing can't be run off solar is A/C, so when I won't need A/C, I won't need a generator either. The prospective of having to run a genny only because of the fridge is neither attractive nor unavoidable.

[BuffaloIndian]

Thanks everyone for reminding me about the converter.

[MrWizard]

The camper fridge uses 300+ watts for the heating element
More running power than the compressor in the residential fridge
But the compressor fridge does have a start up surge
Mine is about 900~1000w for milliseconds
My 3100w champion can handle my fridge and a/C , as long as the converter is not using too much power
I get my batteries up to charge before I turn on the A/C

[prothos]

I use the the champion 3100 watt inverter and it runs my 15k btu ac without any issue and my camper fridge. not sure how it would work with a residential fridge and ac.
I know it will run my residential fridge, tv, cable box and 12btu ac. had the power go out for 12 hours at home and fired it up to run those items.

[C_B_]

Glad I got my Honda EU6500is. Use it for power at home or on the road.

Honda has now come out with a fuel injected model EU7000is.
Thinking about getting rid of my 5,000 Honda Construction gen and replace it with a 7,000is


Twin Honda 2000's actually only give you 3,200W not 4,000.

I'm told a 15,000BTU AC needs 3,600W to start. Found that to be true with my Sons Cedar Creek. It would kick out the twin 2,000s. Putting in a Supco SPP-6 hard start capacitor cured that problem.


C.B.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Dorm size playtoys 96 watts used more kWh in 24 hours than my 16CF Daewoo. Out the back window they were hurled.

Sooner or later, both units are going to re-start (cycle) simultaneously. That's where the proverbial straw enters the picture.

[Almot]

Don't sweat too much over the refer. Residential is a byatch in terms of energy, and I personally would never have it for off-grid, but compared to A/C this is nothing. Off the top of my head, I would say, 8cu.ft refer is 80W or less, when running. Start-up amps/watts are higher, yes. You should know the specs for YOUR particular fridge. There can be 3 times difference between yours and some other models.

The problem with these fridges is that, unlike A/C that you only need when it's hot, the fridge you need all the time. They draw very little, compared to what genny can output, but they draw it non-stop (cycling on and off, of course). Which means, either you have to carry a battery bank at least 300 AH, or run a genny almost non-stop. Doesn't "sound" like fun.

[Artum_Snowbird]

And certainly don't forget that when you sit without anything you also drain the batteries, so when you start up the gennie you are also trying to charge your batteries at about 700 watts pull if they are down a ways.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

You need to do a little homework to get a realistic answer...

Determine A/C restart amperage at high head amps. Go to the manufacturer if necessary but be sure they understand that you want to know how many amps that A/C is going to pull -when restarting under high head conditions-

Secondly. Find the starting, not the run, the starting amperage of your refrigerator.

Addition

High head starting amps of the A/C

+

Starting amps of the refrigerator

___________________________________
Total Amperage

X 120

Equals Volt Amps We're not done quite yet

Multiply the VA figure times 130%

Now you're in the ballpark for what you need in generator max surge watts.

[FrankShore]

2 Hondas or Yamahas paired together (2,000 each) would work fine, that or a Honda 3,000 or a Yamaha 3,000

EDIT: Oops, didn't see the residential fridge part!