Forum Discussion
pianotuna
Nov 13, 2015Nomad III
Hi,
It behooves you to replace that "standard" outlet with something sturdier than the "stab" type connectors that may exist in most RV's. I've replaced all of mine except for one.
If there is a 30 amp service for continuous loads it may be best to run at 80% of that capacity (24 amps). Assuming 120 volts that allows 2880 watts for all loads.
It is good practise to check all devices in an RV for wattage using a kill-a-watt meter or similar device. The name plate wattage is approximate on every device I have checked.
I have three shore cords now. The OEM 30, a 20 and a 15 amp.
It behooves you to replace that "standard" outlet with something sturdier than the "stab" type connectors that may exist in most RV's. I've replaced all of mine except for one.
If there is a 30 amp service for continuous loads it may be best to run at 80% of that capacity (24 amps). Assuming 120 volts that allows 2880 watts for all loads.
It is good practise to check all devices in an RV for wattage using a kill-a-watt meter or similar device. The name plate wattage is approximate on every device I have checked.
I have three shore cords now. The OEM 30, a 20 and a 15 amp.
ChooChooMan74 wrote:
I brought 2 electric heaters with me. I plugged one into a regular wall outlet
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