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Gripping about LED lighting costs.....

KATOOM
Explorer
Explorer
I just need to complain. Reading all the topics about LED, I think LED lighting is worth looking into and possibly even worth tearing apart the few incandescent lights I have on my TH in order to help lessen battery usage while boondocking. Most living area lights in my trailer are florescent, so I always thought that florescent was far better than incandescent. Even at that, maybe switching over to some lights to LED is a good idea, but wow..........LED lighting is freaking expensive. I dont understand why either except that its still "new" technology to the consumer world, and manufactures understand that people will still pay outrageous prices for an LED light. :h After seeing whats available and it entails to install, I quickly found out from most, if not all, websites that I could easily spend mucho buckaroos converting to LED. Remember when florescent lights were expensive?
Thanks for listening.....:B
28 REPLIES 28

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
I tried Goop. It doesn't stick to the adhesive on the double sided tape. I finally put a piece of plain paper on the adhesive tape and used Goop to stick it to the fixture. Still there after a couple of years.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

DSchmidt_2000
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
There is NO SUCH THING as a DC fluorescent light.


'Properly designed' is the problem. A lot of commercial electronic AC ballasts, the first thing they do is turn the AC to DC and then chop/PWM it up at a higher frequency through a high freq transformer. Tubes last a long time.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Use GOOP and the drooping show will be over.

There is NO SUCH THING as a DC fluorescent light. Part of the garbage that fails or turns fluorescent tube ends BLACK after a few months is an inverter so cheap the output waveform looks like Mars scape. The efficiency improvement borders on being embarrassing.

The big decision is "what color temperature"? From what I've seen the light color varies from damned near high pressure sodium orange, to blue with white in between.

I like 5000K (sunlight) for mechanical repair bench lighting, and 3,000K yellow to help camouflage just how crummy my furniture is* (this is called "warm" lighting). White light for reading, but "warm" light to reduce the chance of heart failure when I unwrap beef from the "carneceria (butcher shop".

*When it gets faded and stained enough I will switch to high pressure sodium. This will give my living room that homey "Wal-Mart parking lot" warmth that women love.

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
I have had success by gently roughing up the contact area with fine sandpaper before sticking the panel to the fixture.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
My only problem is the mounting surface is never level, and the 2 sided tape lets go.
The best fix, put a blob of adheasive sillycone in the middle of the led panel, and hold it up w/ a pc of masking tape for a few minutes.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
Here is a link to a fluorescent to LED conversion.

And this is a link to a different approach to the fluorescent to LED conversion.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
deltamaster wrote:
I have the dual fluorescent tube fixture in the cargo compartment of the Toy Hauler. It is about 12 inches long. Will five of these panels produce the same amount of light as the two original tubes?

Doubt 5 will fit in a 12" unit. The hardest part when I replaced mine was drilling the rivets out to remover all the parts. I used 4 in a 18" and they are just as bright. I would use the little connector that comes with them so if one stops working all you have to do is pry the old one out and stick the new one in. These panels have two sided tape already installed so you just peal and stick.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45โ€™...

oldbeek
Explorer
Explorer
I used the 5ea 48smd panels in my florescent fixtures. Very bright. The wiring on LED,s is polarity sensitive. Bought 2 ba15 120 smd LED bulbs for $6.50 yesterday. They are direct replacement for the 1156 filament bulb. Very bright. Replaced every bulb last year. No heat, will not melt lamp covers if left on all night. Even replaced my stop and tail lights. All direct from china E-Bay
1994 27sl Alpenlite with many mods, 2001 Dodge Cummins 2x4 3.54 Auto trans built shift kit and 2nd gear lock up mod. Mojave Green billet, triple disc low stall torque converter. Gauges and raptor 3/8inch fuel system. 12.5 mpg avg

Hybridhunter
Explorer
Explorer
C Schomer wrote:
I spent ~$350 for LEDs in all the most-used fixtures and some of them were even ebay cheapos. It's been a couple yrs since I read up on them but I didn't think LED was much advantage over fluorescent. Best to check it out. Craig


Do you have 100 light fixtures?

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I spent ~$350 for LEDs in all the most-used fixtures and some of them were even ebay cheapos. It's been a couple yrs since I read up on them but I didn't think LED was much advantage over fluorescent. Best to check it out. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

timjcarter9
Explorer
Explorer
Hybridhunter wrote:
My opinion is the "48 SMD panels" are WAY overkill. We have one for an outdoor light, and it's a bit ridiculous. To each their own.


Yup to each their own. We like lots of light at night. We all find it just right. Some may think it is too bright. One could always mix the 36 and 48 smd in different areas depending on lighting requirements.

We are no longer careful with the lights as they only draw about 1/5 the of an incandescent bulb.

I did put the "white" ones in the bathroom. Don't like them; too blue. Will replace with soft white.
2003 Avalanche - 4.10 gears
2010 Puma 18DB
Sold - 1973 FMC 2900R

deltamaster
Explorer
Explorer
I have the dual fluorescent tube fixture in the cargo compartment of the Toy Hauler. It is about 12 inches long. Will five of these panels produce the same amount of light as the two original tubes?

The fixture failed somehow and replacement bulbs do not work in it... something in the electronics failed.
:E [purple]I ride it like I stole it![/purple] :B

.......and I just may have.......



I'm on "CB-13", are you?



2004 Fun Mover with a 1998 Road King and a 2002 Sportster tucked in the garage, Dragging a 2002 "RAM Tough" Dodge Dakota Crew Cab. Ohhh what a haul!

TSgt(Ret.) USAF

Hybridhunter
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10x-T10-194-921-168-Bulb-Lamp-24-1210SMD-LED-Warm-White-/170674549926

I did our trailer with these, $2 a piece! They are slightly less bright than the OEM incandescent bulbs, but the same color. Not "alien autopsy" lighting.

My opinion is the "48 SMD panels" are WAY overkill. We have one for an outdoor light, and it's a bit ridiculous. To each their own.

timjcarter9
Explorer
Explorer
I replaced all mine with the 48 smd soft white panels. Plus the outside leed strip with remote control, and an led cob light for the big outside light. Total cost under $100.00. From EBay.
2003 Avalanche - 4.10 gears
2010 Puma 18DB
Sold - 1973 FMC 2900R