heat strip limits

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I recently got a chance to test the heat strip to the limits of what it can do for keeping the RV comfortable.

I set the thermostat for 20 c (68 f). It was able to maintain that interior temperature down to 3 c (37.4 f) ambient. At 3 c the heat strip was running continuously.

I've separated the furnace from the Dometic control so it has its own thermostat.

[pianotuna]

Hi Marc,

I solved that issue by adding fans that blow into the cold air return for the furnace. It provides enough air flow to prevent freeze up--and worked better than putting a 1500 watt heater under the cabinets.

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:
My 4 season TT has heater ducts that heat the tanks and under belly, so I don't think I could use just the heat strip alone in sub freezing weather. I wouldn't want the tanks to freeze. Maybe have the LP heater fan only on, to recirc the cabin air down under?
It would put more strain on the strip, but no freezing.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

I would love to test mine out, but I live in Phoenix, lol.

After I installed mine, I noticed what you said.....its just luke warm air, but it does work.

My 4 season TT has heater ducts that heat the tanks and under belly, so I don't think I could use just the heat strip alone in sub freezing weather. I wouldn't want the tanks to freeze. Maybe have the LP heater fan only on, to recirc the cabin air down under?
It would put more strain on the strip, but no freezing.

[pianotuna]

Hi marc,

My rv is in my signature--but here it is again:

Kustom Koach Class C 28'5"

It is supposedly a four seasons unit--but in the OEM would not be able to "take on" a Canadian winter in Saskatchewan.

I have beefed up insulation where I can and use insulbright covers for the windows, pillows and covers for the vents and skylights. I do have a way to isolate the cab--but it was not in use for this test.

What I was trying to point out is that folks expect hot air from their heat strip. It simply doesn't work out--and so they get the idea that they are useless. What comes out of the ducts is tepid rather than HOT.

I'd really love to spray foam on the bottom of my rv, but I'm afraid of moisture getting trapped and then mold and rot setting in.

As Mr. Wizard says, I've made a lot of cold weather mods, and can heat Totally electrically down to -37 c (-34 F). I might be able to go even lower--but it simply did not get any colder than that last year. Many of those mods are adding "spot heating" to areas that are "weak", such as the enclosed but unheated waste tanks.

My maximum current draw was about 5400 watts which means in the super cold I have to pay for a 50 amp site, and use a break out box with two auxiliary shore power cords. I use the propane furnace as an emergency back up, in case there should be a power failure of some kinds.

I was not quite maxed out so I suspect I'm good to -40 without propane use. I even have a way to heat the propane tank, and the generator, too.

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:
It would be even more helpful if you included what Brand, Model and size of trailer you are talking about.
Im sure it would work great in a well insulated small trailer vs a 30 ft older poorly insulated TT.

Im guessing you are talking about the optional heat strip in the Dometic Brisk air AC?

I have one myself but have never stress tested.

[MrWizard]

Don is not in a tt
He has a class C , that has extensive modifications, for cold weather

[marcsbigfoot20b]

It would be even more helpful if you included what Brand, Model and size of trailer you are talking about.
Im sure it would work great in a well insulated small trailer vs a 30 ft older poorly insulated TT.

Im guessing you are talking about the optional heat strip in the Dometic Brisk air AC?

I have one myself but have never stress tested.