HELP!!!!!! with last step of inverter install

[mdock2]

I'm finishing up on installing the AIMS Power PWRIX120012S 1200 Watt Pure Sine Inverter, with Built In Transfer Switch. i have installed a sub panel, and should the sub panel be Bonded or not.

Thanks for your help...
marty

[BFL13]

Inverter owner manuals I have seen say do not use the inverter to run a distribution panel, but despite that, the inverter will run an RV's "whole house" no problem. Apparently, the warning is about distribution systems that are bonded such as in the stick house, but you can do it ok with the un-bonded RV main panel, or run a sub-panel with more than one circuit breaker

Vector inverter manual says--Do not bring the chassis ground around to the neg input of the inverter as a short cut to the frame (via that neg input wire to battery to frame). Like time2roll says, run the chassis ground to the frame directly.

Vector inverter manual says that chassis ground is for reducing RV interference with TVs and radios. I have had no problems with other inverter brands running them "whole house" (converter off) and without the chassis ground. Not saying everyone else would have no problems, no idea.

[time2roll]

The inverter chassis should be grounded to the frame.
The inverter ground power terminal s/b connected to the rest of the ground connections and at some point also connected to the frame.
The negative battery power terminal is the only connection direct to the battery. Yes the battery negative is also connected to the frame.
These three should be independent connections.

Some inverters do not like the output ground tied to the battery (through the frame) and must be operated as isolated or portable. Usually the instructions will say not to wire the inverter to an electrical system if this is the case.

The AIMS PWRIX120012S looks like it should wire into your system just fine. Since it has a transfer switch that is how it is designed to operate.

https://www.aimscorp.net/documents/IX1200%20manual.pdf

[mdock2]

railtrailers wrote:
I purchased an AIMS PWRIG150012120S a couples of years ago. It was specifically selected as it was advertised as "bondable". After a long delay, I finally got around to that project after the window to return it had expired. Before installing it, I chose to run some electrical tests to confirm the operation. The AC voltage line to neutral was a solid 120 volts and it handled an electric space heater quite well. However, I also measured the voltages from line to ground and neutral to ground and both read equal (but reduced) voltages! I suspect that they push the positive going half AC cycle out one lead and the negative going out half AC cycle out the other lead rather that a true full sine wave cycle out the line lead. The only way that I would consider bonding the neutral to the ground with this inverter would be to run the power through an isolation transformer which could cost nearly as much as the inverter itself. Another project on the shelf to get back to "someday".

You described just what was happening, plus I was getting shocked when I touched the breaker that had the AC in line attached to. So, thinking that it was not grounded correctly, I attempted to ground the AC out to the negative side of the battery, well guess what happen, smoked the inverter...

[railtrailers]

I purchased an AIMS PWRIG150012120S a couples of years ago. It was specifically selected as it was advertised as "bondable". After a long delay, I finally got around to that project after the window to return it had expired. Before installing it, I chose to run some electrical tests to confirm the operation. The AC voltage line to neutral was a solid 120 volts and it handled an electric space heater quite well. However, I also measured the voltages from line to ground and neutral to ground and both read equal (but reduced) voltages! I suspect that they push the positive going half AC cycle out one lead and the negative going out half AC cycle out the other lead rather that a true full sine wave cycle out the line lead. The only way that I would consider bonding the neutral to the ground with this inverter would be to run the power through an isolation transformer which could cost nearly as much as the inverter itself. Another project on the shelf to get back to "someday".

[time2roll]

Do you know what you did wrong?

I like my GoPower inverter. Just a stand alone 2000 watts sine wave.

[mdock2]

Thank you everyone that replied. However, I did burn the inverter up yesterday evening. So now on the search for another one. Maybe the new one will have instructions, as the AIMS brand had very little information, including information on the web and on U Tube...Again, Thank U
Should anyone know of a brand with better information, please advise..

[Housted]

We have a 3000 watt inverter in a 50 amp coach. Shore cord is plugged into a 50 amp female socket wired to the inverter with the two hots tied together(like a 30 to 50 adapter). This powers the whole coach with maximum flexability. We treat the inverter like 30 amp service (only one big draw at a time). The inverter will run anything in the coach (except for the A/C of course). Yay, solar 650 watts of solar and 400 Ahours of AGM keeps the power on as much as we need. Works great for us.

Housted

[mdock2]

beemerphile1 wrote:

larry cad wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel? It is only 1200 watts which is equivalent to 10 amps.

If the trailer in your picture is what you have, I suspect that you too have a "sub panel". If you have a breaker panel in your RV, you have a sub panel by definition.

I have a 2000 watt inverter and don't see the need to feed a subpanel from it. It only feeds one circuit.

I'll be feeding 4 circuits, so as to keep different items operational plus need to be able to use for a cpap, again, no A/C, hot water heater, converter/Battery Charger. In my class A, the inverter runs everything but the A/C's.

[beemerphile1]

larry cad wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel? It is only 1200 watts which is equivalent to 10 amps.

If the trailer in your picture is what you have, I suspect that you too have a "sub panel". If you have a breaker panel in your RV, you have a sub panel by definition.

I have a 2000 watt inverter and don't see the need to feed a subpanel from it. It only feeds one circuit.

[mdock2]

2oldman wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel?

x2. That's a big job for not being able to remember what not to run off inverter.

I won't be using the big ticket items, but don't want to have issues caused by the DW

[MEXICOWANDERER]

The coach panel is connected to the sub panel

The sub panel is connected to the main panel


And chassis earth is daisy chained back to the main panel

[2oldman]

time2roll wrote:
Sometimes there are kids and non technical users that need a system that is automatic..

Yah, have to agree with that safety issue. Seeing how it's just me and sometimes another adult, I'm pretty safe.

With a big inverter, solar and Li battery, I can and do run the air, which years ago I had a feeling I'd be doing, so I went with whole-house. Also, my first inverter install was a Prosine 2.0, which has excellent power protection for shore AC, so that was another factor in not using a sub-panel.

[time2roll]

Sometimes there are kids and non technical users that need a system that is automatic. Otherwise you come back from fishing to a dead battery or the inverter does not work. Then you have 20 minutes of generator hours to get enough charge to run the furnace that night.

[larry_cad]

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel? It is only 1200 watts which is equivalent to 10 amps.

If the trailer in your picture is what you have, I suspect that you too have a "sub panel". If you have a breaker panel in your RV, you have a sub panel by definition.