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Help with LED strips

kfp673
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hello All,

I am installing some LED strips inside and outside the camper. inside was a breeze. Was easily able to find 12v power sources to tap into in 2 different locations. Outside however is not working and after 3 hours of trouble shooting I'm stumped. The strips have 12V power into a small controller and then a cable out to the LED with a 3 pin connector. The only difference inside vs outside is inside I spliced the power wire heading into the controller inside. Outside I had to splice the wires going from the controller to the LED strip. I spliced it into the factory 3 pin adaptor and got nothing.

Just to save time for replies, I will confirm a few things. I checked at least 10 times that all 3 wires were spliced correctly. I cut off my splices 3 times and redid them to make sure they were also correct. I used a multi meter and showed just under 13V going into the controller and just under 13v leaving the controller. I also used the multi meter to check the actual connector pins and again just under 13v. Had a second brand new strip. Tested that and still nothing. Tested another controller and nothing. Tested those same second strip and controller using the AC/DC power supply it came with and it works fine so I know they work.

So it seems like splicing the cable going out of the controller is somehow causing an issue, but I can't for the life of me figure out why. And because they only give you 3' of cable and the controller needs to stay dry, this is the only option.

Any thoughts???

Thanks
8 REPLIES 8

kfp673
Explorer II
Explorer II
wopachop wrote:
Oh dang too late. If you snap pics I could possibly help.


Thanks anyway. I kept trying things. Quadruple checked my voltages with a meter to make sure it was good. Per the above suggestion I decided to solder. Soldered one end and got nothing but during this process I have connected and disconnected so many times I'm pretty sure I fried the controller, plus the connector on the strip broke.

So my solution is just to use AC power and use the included power supply and included connectors and used the extra strip I had. Those multi pin connectors are junk. They don't hold tight so I put heat shrink around it and tape around that so I should be all set. Only half the length I had planned but at least I have something. Now I have some wires in my front storage compartment and a fried controller just there for looks ๐Ÿ˜‰

Now, lets see if the 3M tape I used holds. Hoping not to see flapping LED lights in the mirror during my 5 hour drive tomorrow. Ha!

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Oh dang too late. If you snap pics I could possibly help.

kfp673
Explorer II
Explorer II
freetime58 wrote:
kfp673 wrote:
Hello All,

I am installing some LED strips inside and outside the camper. inside was a breeze. Was easily able to find 12v power sources to tap into in 2 different locations. Outside however is not working and after 3 hours of trouble shooting I'm stumped. The strips have 12V power into a small controller and then a cable out to the LED with a 3 pin connector. The only difference inside vs outside is inside I spliced the power wire heading into the controller inside. Outside I had to splice the wires going from the controller to the LED strip. I spliced it into the factory 3 pin adaptor and got nothing.

Just to save time for replies, I will confirm a few things. I checked at least 10 times that all 3 wires were spliced correctly. I cut off my splices 3 times and redid them to make sure they were also correct. I used a multi meter and showed just under 13V going into the controller and just under 13v leaving the controller. I also used the multi meter to check the actual connector pins and again just under 13v. Had a second brand new strip. Tested that and still nothing. Tested another controller and nothing. Tested those same second strip and controller using the AC/DC power supply it came with and it works fine so I know they work.

So it seems like splicing the cable going out of the controller is somehow causing an issue, but I can't for the life of me figure out why. And because they only give you 3' of cable and the controller needs to stay dry, this is the only option.

Any thoughts???

Thanks


Seems as though you've covered all your bases, fighting off electrical gremlins is frustrating to say the least.

I did the same as you, needed to make the wire coming out of the controller longer to feed a strip on the exterior while keeping the controller inside the TT. I too had an issue with the light strip not working properly until I soldered the splice(s) and used heat shrink tubing instead of using butt connectors. You don't say how you did your splice? I know it shouldn't matter but perhaps an option for you.....


Frustrating for sure! I am using butt connectors and heat shrink, so soldering is something I could reluctantly try. However, during troubleshooting I pulled all butt connectors off and twisted bare wires (spaced of course to avoid shorting) and still nothing. Never have a problem getting 12-13V even using the meter on the female pins of the connector itself (so basically at the light) but nothing. It's almost as if the slices and extension of the cable (which is <6' FYI) causes enough loss to make the lights not work. It really should not but who knows..

Just came back inside after cleaning up. Was working on it until midnight and I think I'm giving up. It hitting 95 today and is already super hot. Cleaning up the wiring and putting it away to prepare for a trip we are leaving for tomorrow. Stinks I will not have the new lights working.

Thanks for everyones help!

freetime58
Explorer
Explorer
kfp673 wrote:
Hello All,

I am installing some LED strips inside and outside the camper. inside was a breeze. Was easily able to find 12v power sources to tap into in 2 different locations. Outside however is not working and after 3 hours of trouble shooting I'm stumped. The strips have 12V power into a small controller and then a cable out to the LED with a 3 pin connector. The only difference inside vs outside is inside I spliced the power wire heading into the controller inside. Outside I had to splice the wires going from the controller to the LED strip. I spliced it into the factory 3 pin adaptor and got nothing.

Just to save time for replies, I will confirm a few things. I checked at least 10 times that all 3 wires were spliced correctly. I cut off my splices 3 times and redid them to make sure they were also correct. I used a multi meter and showed just under 13V going into the controller and just under 13v leaving the controller. I also used the multi meter to check the actual connector pins and again just under 13v. Had a second brand new strip. Tested that and still nothing. Tested another controller and nothing. Tested those same second strip and controller using the AC/DC power supply it came with and it works fine so I know they work.

So it seems like splicing the cable going out of the controller is somehow causing an issue, but I can't for the life of me figure out why. And because they only give you 3' of cable and the controller needs to stay dry, this is the only option.

Any thoughts???

Thanks


Seems as though you've covered all your bases, fighting off electrical gremlins is frustrating to say the least.

I did the same as you, needed to make the wire coming out of the controller longer to feed a strip on the exterior while keeping the controller inside the TT. I too had an issue with the light strip not working properly until I soldered the splice(s) and used heat shrink tubing instead of using butt connectors. You don't say how you did your splice? I know it shouldn't matter but perhaps an option for you.....only thing could think of is adding butt connectors and extending the wire might have added too much resistance.......but then again I'm no electrical engineer!!!!

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just remember
In most DC systems and this likely includes the lights and their controllers BLACK is either chassis ground or Negative.

IN Many RV's.. it is not. it is hot... Your voltmeter is your friend. USE IT.

If you put the red lead on the white wire adn black on black and the meter reads -13.6 You have found the problem (Black is hot(
If on the other hand it just says 13.6 That is good.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

kfp673
Explorer II
Explorer II
I like the thought of reversing leads, but my splices are in the middle. Controller had a white jacketed cable coming out. Cut that and exposed Red, Black, White. Extend that wire and reattach the 3 pin connector and just splicing back in the Red, Black, White. Incoming power is tapped off a 12V cable running to a factory light. Just red and black. I suppose the factory could have used those colors in reverse but I'm scared to swap them as introducing power to the ground may damage the controller. Plus, I am showing 12V at the end of both my incoming power extension and outbound (out of controller) extension.

Frustrating!

cavie
Explorer
Explorer
Try reversing the leads to the LED strip. LED's are polarized.
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sounds like some wires are reversed, maybe even the 12V source.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob