Hooked up to 220v on accident

[Wayne_Ballou]

Okay I'll be the new moron of the Forum. Name is Wayne- Nice to meet you!

we were putting a new pull behind trailer on the property for a friend to stay in, had to run an outlet to plug it in... the guy who wired it (and i swear it wasn't me... yeah... :S ); accidentally wired it as a 220v because I have done so many stoves and dryers lately- my buddy who picked up the breaker grabbed a 2 pole 30 to put it on and I didn't think twice... YES I take the cake as the village idiot.

So- I have been looking it up online, reading other forum posts of similar situations. Most of the conversations turn into "How could you accidentally do that?" Well I just explained that above, so I am hoping this doesn't turn into a conversation about what receptacle faces look like, like all the other forum posts I read. haha

Okay! So I Put in a new converter box and all new breakers. It has an AC/DC converter panel.

I am still getting no love on the A/C, The overhead lights, The Fridge & I think the water heater... I am heading back out there tomorrow with a volt meter to test everything thoroughly and make sure power is heading out from the new breakers / panel.

The two questions I have for the experts at this point are:

On my AC/DC converter box, the 12v DC side has little LED's by the fuses, My old panel did not have these... Anyways- They are not turning on at all... Is that a sign that the 12V DC side is not getting power? Would these light up if the panel itself is functioning or could that mean my battery is shot?

&

My main concern is the Air Conditioning right now, We are in Louisiana- It GETS HOT. If the breaker is sending the 20 out and the Air Conditioner is not working, would I likely have to install an entire New Roof Top A/C unit? Or Would it just be in my thermostat control box?? That seems a heavy, heavy chore... Thoughts?

This is by far the most expensive mistake I have made in a while and I am super bummed...

Thank you for all and any help before hand- I will get this sorted out and hoping if i Document it here, it could help others.

[BurbMan]

WyoTraveler wrote:
BTW this problem is more common than many think. The 30 amp plug for RVs is the same plug that many 220 vac name brand welders use. Unless you wired it yourself you would never know. In fact I have one wired for my welder mounted by the door of my shop.

IF that is true then you are using the wrong plug on your welder. The NEC specifies different prong configurations for amp/voltage combinations. You should never be in a position of looking at an outlet and wondering if its 110 or 220.

[WyoTraveler]

BTW this problem is more common than many think. The 30 amp plug for RVs is the same plug that many 220 vac name brand welders use. Unless you wired it youself you would never know. In fact I have one wired for my welder mounted by the door of my shop.

[Old-Biscuit]

Modern converters can/will supply 12VDC system without a battery........but if battery is connected and DEAD the converter will try to recharge that dead battery and could go into overcurrent 'lock-out'

If you have an question as to the state of charge on battery...disconnect it and let converter do the 12V DC duty until you get battery charged using a portable charger.then have battery load tested (auto parts store) OR get a new battery

[Wayne_Ballou]

this may be another amateur question, but will the DC side work if the battery is dead or disconnected?
Does it have to have a complete circuit or can it function off of power from the AC side alone?

Thanks for the quick replies all! 🙂

[Old-Biscuit]

Sorry to hear about the 'incident'.....but sounds like your issues are now 12V DC

As explained the DC Fuse LEDs are a quick visual if a fuse has blown.

With trailer connected to 120V AC power source..converter output should be at least 13.2VDC

There are 2 large fuses on converter to protect from reverse polarity....battery connected backwards.......fuses blow.

With a meter you should find source of problem quickly. Good Luck!

[byronlj]

I would start at the converter and check for 12vdc output and 12vdc at the fuse box entrance. Many of the things you mentioned that didn't work require 12vdc to function.
Dave

[Fleetwood99]

ScottG wrote:
Normally only the things that were actually on would be damaged by the 220.
The converter is always on so it's probably toast and the micro too but the rest is questionable.

Agreed.

12vdc power would be a must for most everything for testing.

Welcome to forum,
DJ

[newman_fulltime]

converter fridge curcuit board heater board ac board water heater board micro tv ive seen lights blown level ups blown

on the ac there is a relay board that usually fries but depends on if it was on when plugged in alot of times.

this is why i recomend check before u plug in and turn all ur breakers off plug in then turn on one at a time

[time2roll]

The little LED next to the fuse is to indicate the fuse is blown. No light is good or just no power.
Check the larger main fuses while in there (no LED)

You do need 12v power to the thermostat and a/c control box for the air to work.
Meter will verify power and find the issue as needed.

[ScottG]

Normally only the things that were actually on would be damaged by the 220.
The converter is always on so it's probably toast and the micro too but the rest is questionable.