Hot water tank

Thanks everyone! We were able to use the hot water heater this past weekend using propane.

Mivy wrote:
We think it is electric because we found a plug for it under our sink. We tested that outlet and it works

Hope they get you on the road soon. Hang in there. It can be tough in the beginning getting to know everything, but before you know it you will be an old pro.

If the outlet has power and the water heater is plugged into it with the outside switch on, the element, thermostat, or switch are likely bad. If there was another interior switch, it should switch that outlet. If it's a duplex outlet, make sure you verify power to the half the heater is plugged into. There are tests that can be performed to verify where the problem is, but they involve disassembling part of the water heater to get to the element. It's not terribly difficult for a handy do it your selfer, but does require some tools, the most specialized is a multi-meter. Some of the tests can be performed without power connected and some require power. If you aren't comfortable, its probably time to seek help from someone who is.

One more thing you can verify. After being plugged in with the water heater turned on for at least an hour, take a cup and catch some water directly from the OTP valve mentioned above. Verify that the water is cold there. It is possible for the water heater to be working but one of the bypass valves being in the wrong position or an outside shower faucet having both valves on with the head disconnected to mix cold water with the hot causing it to seem like the water is not being heated. Catching directly from the heater will verify this isn't the case.

You should be able to use the heater on gas even if the electric side is not working. There is no requirement for 110V for the gas side to work. Follow the steps in my previous post to see if it will work on gas.

Yes that is our control panel of switches. And our hot water heater, we found the switch to turn it on, but that did not heat the water. The reset switches are there but we were unable to push them in. Our truck is still being repaired and we have a 5 hour trip to campground....it is going to be a long day!

Not sure if this is going to work. Is this your control panel?
Full Size Image

Hopefully I'm not violating any rules by linking to these images. I don't want to violate any copyrights, but I believe linking to the image in it's original location is OK. If not, moderators please advise.

If that's your panel and you do have an electric element in your water heater, here is an example of an outside switch:

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There is another possibility that some Fleetwood products used in the past. My 2004 Fleetwood Bounder had what looked like a residential light switch that toggled high current loads. I believe it allowed you to select the electric water heater or the bedroom air conditioner but not both. I don't recall exactly where it was located but I think it was in the bathroom, possibly inside the vanity cabinet. This was used because the Bounder had 30A service with 2 air conditioners and they wanted to make sure only one of those items was enabled to hopefully prevent breaker trips.

Sorry to hear about the truck problems. Hope you get them worked out. I know that's not a great way to start a trip.

We think it is electric because we found a plug for it under our sink. We tested that outlet and it works we see no other switch so we were going to just try it on propane once we get to the campground. However our pickup just has a mechanical situation so we are turning around and heading to our mechanic. It has not been a good day so far. Thanks for your suggestions , once we have camper set up we will search for that elusive switch or go to propane. If it is helpful to anyone, we have a rock wood ultra lite signature 8282 WS.

happy2rv wrote:

Bert Ackerman wrote:


A Rockwood always has a 2nd switch for electric operation inside on the switch panel.

Looking at RV listings online, I saw Rockwoods with and without the electric switch on the inside panel. All of the Rockwood examples I found with electric water heater switch on the panel clearly spelled out "ELECTRIC WATER HEATER" the examples I saw without an internal switch on the panel only labeled the gas switch "WATER HEATER" as described by OP.

That is because Rockwood also uses/used an LP only D series water heater on some models/lines. Every Rockwood or Flagstaff product I have ever seen, including the 3 we've owned since 2010, have had the inside switch when the water heater was a DE model. Perhaps the OP has a gas only heater?

Bert Ackerman wrote:


A Rockwood always has a 2nd switch for electric operation inside on the switch panel.

Looking at RV listings online, I saw Rockwoods with and without the electric switch on the inside panel. All of the Rockwood examples I found with electric water heater switch on the panel clearly spelled out "ELECTRIC WATER HEATER" the examples I saw without an internal switch on the panel only labeled the gas switch "WATER HEATER" as described by OP.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You have a Suburban Water Heater

Inside On/Off Switch with Light is for the propane side....need propane valved in service AND 12VDC Power

IF it is a combo unit...electric & propane----the Electric On/Off Switch is in the Outside Compartment. Lower Left corner behind/below gas valve
Need 120VAC Power for the electric to work. **No DC needed for AC side
(The 110 15A is just enough for element provided other AC demands are off----1440W element/13A when energized)

Above the gas valve is a Cover with Push to Reset buttons.
Behind cover are the Sets of T-stats for electric & propane
High Temp T-stat is a manual reset if it trips (180*F)....if tripped you will feel resistance when pushing in on buttons
Left side is the 120VAC Set (electric)
Right side is the 12VDC set (propane)

A Rockwood always has a 2nd switch for electric operation inside on the switch panel. Both the one on the inside switch panel and the one on the heater itself accessed from the exterior door mentioned above have to be on for 120 VAC operation. Most people just leave the outside one on all the time, and use the inside switch which is the reason for having two, so you don't need to go outside to turn the heater on when you want AC operation.

You have a Suburban Water Heater

Inside On/Off Switch with Light is for the propane side....need propane valved in service AND 12VDC Power

IF it is a combo unit...electric & propane----the Electric On/Off Switch is in the Outside Compartment. Lower Left corner behind/below gas valve
Need 120VAC Power for the electric to work. **No DC needed for AC side
(The 110 15A is just enough for element provided other AC demands are off----1440W element/13A when energized)

Above the gas valve is a Cover with Push to Reset buttons.
Behind cover are the Sets of T-stats for electric & propane
High Temp T-stat is a manual reset if it trips (180*F)....if tripped you will feel resistance when pushing in on buttons
Left side is the 120VAC Set (electric)
Right side is the 12VDC set (propane)