how big of an inverter for Direct TV

[Rmack1]

As I've mentioned on other threads, I'm looking to install an inverter to run my Direct TV components from my batteries.

I asked around, called the companies, and determined that;

My TV uses about 33 watts

The 'Genie' receiver about 18 watts

The Winegard Trav'ler dish uses 120

And the SWM system that I need to run my Genie also uses 120

This last part was determined by a Winegard tech who said that voltage times amps gives you wattage. Is this correct?

He also confirmed my suspicion that the dish uses less power after it's finished using it's electrical motors to align itself with the satellites, but he didn't know what the difference was.

So, I could get away with a 300 watt inverter, if they make them that size.

Question; is there any advantage to inverter overkill? Like, would a 400 watt inverter have any advantages over a 300? Would it run cooler, more efficient, anything like that?

Thanks

[1971duster340]

I had problems with a KVH in-motion dish seeking. Turned out it was voltage drop...too small wire. It wanted 13V+ at the dish. By the time the wire handling 12V (13.5) power supplied at the inverter ran to the dish controller (50') then to the dish motors (40'), the voltage had dropped too much. I supplied 13.5V near the controller, just a 120V/12V transformer, no more issues. If I was on shore or genset power, no issues with the original setup. Spent hours with KVH as the circumstances kept changing.

[mena661]

Rmack1 wrote:

I'm more worried about my trailer wiring. That's a much larger investment.

Genuinedealz.com has good prices on wire.

[Rmack1]

BlindGuynAR wrote:


I've wasted much more than $20 in the past on junk. I say buy and try for the low up front investment.

I'm more worried about my trailer wiring. That's a much larger investment.

[BlindGuynAR]

Rmack1 wrote:

Rmack1 wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Go cheap and see how it works.

http://www.donrowe.com/Samlex-SAM-100-12-p/sam-100-12.htm

Wow. Very small and cheap.

I would have to use a three-way splitter to plug all three of my devices in, but, theoretically, it's still within the wat7tage range.

That's gotta be one small cooling fan.

I don't know. I wouldn't mind spending more money to ensure a greater chance of success. That thing is just too small and cheap to work.

I've wasted much more than $20 in the past on junk. I say buy and try for the low up front investment.

[Rmack1]

Rmack1 wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Go cheap and see how it works.

http://www.donrowe.com/Samlex-SAM-100-12-p/sam-100-12.htm

Wow. Very small and cheap.

I would have to use a three-way splitter to plug all three of my devices in, but, theoretically, it's still within the wattage range.

That's gotta be one small cooling fan.

I don't know. I wouldn't mind spending more money to ensure a greater chance of success. That thing is just too small and cheap to work.

[Rmack1]

smkettner wrote:
Go cheap and see how it works.

http://www.donrowe.com/Samlex-SAM-100-12-p/sam-100-12.htm

Wow. Very small and cheap.

I would have to use a three-way splitter to plug all three of my devices in, but, theoretically, it's still within the wattage range.

That's gotta be one small cooling fan.

[time2roll]

Go cheap and see how it works.

http://www.donrowe.com/Samlex-SAM-100-12-p/sam-100-12.htm

[Rmack1]

OK, I received an email from a tech at Winegard, and he confirmed that I can shut down the dish by holding those two buttons at once after the dish is aligned.

He said the other component, which I think he called a 'PI-21' only draws 25.5 watts. With my TV at 33 or so, and the receiver at 18, this would put my wattage requirement well under 100, which leads me to believe I could get a 150 watt inverter, which someone said would be able to be plugged into a 12v receptacle without overloading the wiring.

I would much rather do this, as my local RV dealership quoted me 1,200 to 1,400 bucks to install an inverter for me, albeit a much larger wattage one. I wouldn't know where to begin myself.

One poster said some TV's need a power surge to start up. What if I had the 150 watt inverter, and I started the TV first, then after it settled down, turned on the other components? That is, the receiver and then the SWM add-on thing, NOT the Sat dish.

I do not need to power anything else when I'm dry camping. I just would like the capability to watch a couple of hours of TV with dinner at night, and what-not.

[Rmack1]

Almot wrote:

The OP only said "...uses 120". Maybe it's time to tell us - 120 of what? :)... And if it's not 120V, then what 120V devices do they have in total, i.e. what this inverter will have to run, including electronics?

Sorry, I thought I was clear.

Some guy at Winegard said he calculated by multiplying the volts by the amps, and came up with 120 watts for both the 'Trav'ler' dish and the SWM system add on that I had to get to make my dish work with my receiver, for a total of 240 watts for both.

That seems pretty high. I'm guessing that this is the peak usage when the dish is running it's electric motor to position itself. Don't know for sure.

Now I'm wondering if I position my dish when I have my gennies running, and shut off the power to it when I use the inverter, will the SWM system still pull 120 amps? I'm guessing not. But, even if it did, that would put my wattage at under 200, which someone said I could get away with using a 12v receptacle to power a 200 watt inverter.

[mena661]

Thanks Almot for the correction and Doug for the info.

[RJsfishin]

If I was buying now, I would probably go w/ a PSW 3-400 watt.
But for an inexpensive inverter, there is nothing wrong w/ my 10 yr old 400 MSW that powers pc, phone, TV, sat receiver, and everything else in the entertainment center. The only thing that could be improved, is the inconsistent fan noise I hear sometimes. If it wasn't so hard to get to, I'd cut the fan motor wire, as I'm thoroughly convinced that for my useage it don't need a fan anyhow
It comes on when it feels like it, not because of temperature..

[dougrainer]

Almot wrote:

mena661 wrote:
My sat dish is 12V (King Dome). Only draws 2.68 amps in seek mode. Are there some that are 120V?

The OP only said "...uses 120". Maybe it's time to tell us - 120 of what? :)... And if it's not 120V, then what 120V devices do they have in total, i.e. what this inverter will have to run, including electronics?

Kingdomes, if in motion require 120 volts. They have a 120 to 24 volt power pack. KD NON in motion use 12 volts. Doug

[pianotuna]

Hi mena,

Yes 300 watts (morningstar is 300 watts) will power a lot of stuff.

[Bill_Satellite]

Rmack1 wrote:

donn0128 wrote:

Rmack1 wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Remember you can turn off the dishes power once it has homed. So that is a savings. You are going to want a pure sine wave inverter to begin with. Get one around 800 watts and install it correctly and go happy.

I don't think that is true.

The only way I have of cutting off the power to my Trav'ler, short of unplugging it, is to hit the on/off button on the little controller box, and this would begin the shutdown/fold-up sequence.

I suppose I could try unplugging it, but that seems pretty inelegant. I would be surprised if it still functioned, but what do I know?

That's exactly how you do it. My traveler has been up for 5 months now and as soon as it locked onto the signal I unplugged and replugged it. No power draw. When I want to move or put it down all I do is turn it on, let it home and then do the normal power off. The antenna does not need any power feeding it after it has found the correct birds. The SWM power supply provides the 19V to the LNB. Just remember all of this stuff is drawing power all the time. So batteries are not going to last very long. That is the main reason I use a non SWM system when boon docking.

OK.

Thanks for schooling me on that.

While pulling the power cord is an easy way to kill the power, you can also push the Power and Select buttons simultaneously and the controller will turn itself off.