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How Level is Level

kccwoodworks
Explorer
Explorer
Being new to RVing I've heard lots of talk about leveling your RV. Mainly due the peculiarities of RV refrigerators. How far off level before damage to the fridge? 1", 2", 3"???
27 REPLIES 27

64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Explorer II
is it really that hard to get it level? I have always found a way to get my 5er level even out in the desert or in the forest. Wood planks etc. I have even dug small holes to pull the tires into. Not a big deal to get it close.
Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
200w solar 2 GC2's 800w inv
Truma tankless WH
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
cooling mist water inj, DP tunes, 4" exh sys
trucool trans cooler added
2011 RZR 900xp

Sabluka
Explorer
Explorer
pnichols wrote:
Installing inexpensive level indicators in the cab area so the driver can make the RV level when it should be level is very easy.

Lay a cheap circle bubble level back on the floor next to the refrigerator and jocky the RV around until this level indicates "level". Leaving the RV like this, glue two of the stick-em'-on tube bubble levels in the front -> one on the dash in front of the driver's seat indicating "level" (this will indicate side-to-side RV levelness), and another on the driver's side door indicating "level" (this will indicate front-to-back RV levelness).

Now .... whenever both of these two cab levels indicate within one-half bubble of level ... the refrigerator area of the coach is also very close to being level. We find that it also feels just right in the RV walking around whenever both cab levels indicate within one-half bubble of level.


My 2000 MW has two levels outside, beside & justbelow the driver door. Just look out and down.

But as I said,...barely level seems to work even for this older rig.

RR

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Installing inexpensive level indicators in the cab area so the driver can make the RV level when it should be level is very easy.

Lay a cheap circle bubble level back on the floor next to the refrigerator and jocky the RV around until this level indicates "level". Leaving the RV like this, glue two of the stick-em'-on tube bubble levels in the front -> one on the dash in front of the driver's seat indicating "level" (this will indicate side-to-side RV levelness), and another on the driver's side door indicating "level" (this will indicate front-to-back RV levelness).

Now .... whenever both of these two cab levels indicate within one-half bubble of level ... the refrigerator area of the coach is also very close to being level. We find that it also feels just right in the RV walking around whenever both cab levels indicate within one-half bubble of level.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

mustard
Explorer
Explorer
If you travel with an Ipad or IPhone, or android or windows phone, you might try this app.

http://www.plaincode.com/products/clinometer/?ref=itunes&id=286215117

Sabluka
Explorer
Explorer
kcc - I been travelin since Oct 2013 and never worry abt it. Ak to FL and back and forth betwinxt several states....winter and summer.

Frig just keeps on tickin..

I only level if movement in the rig bothers me. Makes me get off balance etc or a door swings too much.

Then I use those orange plastic stackable wheel lifts to level if needed. Rare tho.

RR

kccwoodworks
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to all who replied! It seem like the consensus is not to worry too much. Thanks to all.

Tvov
Explorer II
Explorer II
Once you've been on a few camping trips and start to get your own way of doing things figured out, it really doesn't take long at all to level the camper. Put a board (or two) behind or in front of the wheels of one side of the camper, pull onto them, raise or lower the jack - and you're level! Cooking, refrig, sleeping, bathroom - all is more enjoyable with a level camper.
_________________________________________________________
2021 F150 2.7
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor

Dave2001
Explorer
Explorer
My refrigerators spec for level says the maximums are: 3 degrees front to back and 6 degrees side to side. Font to back is the side the door is on, with the coil on the opposite side.
Considering side to side trailer level only then:
With the refrigerator mounted to the side wall. 3 degrees is equal to .6 inches per foot.
So for a 8 foot wide trailer, the numbers are .6 inches per foot times 8 feet or 4.8 inches.
I think that most of us would be fairly uncomfortable with the rig this far out of level. That's equivalent to three 2x8s under the tires on one side. Anything less is supposed to be acceptable according to the manufacturer.
Myself I like it pretty level, so that doors do not open on their own when unlatched and eggs stay put in the pan. I also gave up sleeping uphill and down hill when we moved from a tent to a camper.
So in the end, I think most of us could probably agree that making our camper perfectly level has more to do with our comfort than the refrigerator absolutely requiring it.
2005 Holiday Rambler Alumascape 32SKD
2001 Dodge 2500 Quad cab, 4x4, HO, 6spd, 4:10

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
That laser level is pretty cool -- but my detection device is very low tech: it is not level until DW says it is!
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

AllegroD
Nomad
Nomad
What does your manual say? Do that.

turbojimmy
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
that is why I leveled my MH with the level on the floor of the freezer compartment, then stuck a bullseye level on the console mushing it into a glob of silicone sealer to show level. then I could just level based on that and knew the refrigerator would be fine.
bumpy


Great idea - thanks!
1984 Allegro M-31 (Dead Metal)

Clay_L
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
To put it more simply, if you refrigerator is located along the side wall like mine is then:

multiply your RV width across the tires in inches by 0.1045
and multiply your wheelbase in inches by 0.0523

Calculating the inches out of level allowed for the refrigerator requires that you know the wheelbase of your MH (the distance between the front and rear wheels) and the distance side to side between the center of the tires. After that, it's simple trigonometry.

In my MH the refrigerator is located along the side wall on the passenger side. Front to back on the fridge is therefore side to side on the MH, so I am allowed to be off level in this direction by 6 degrees. I measured 73 inches across the tires, so multiplying 73 by the sine of 6 degrees (0.1045) gave me an allowable out of level of 7.6 inches. The fridge is allowed to be off level by 3 degrees side to side, which is front to back on the MH. My E450 chassis has a wheelbase of 158 inches, so multiplying 158 by the sine of 3 degrees (0.0523) gives me an allowable out of level of 8.3 inches.


Great answer.
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (Wife), Katie & Kelli (cats) Salli (dog).

Fixed domicile after 1 year of snowbirding and eleven years Full Timing in a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N, Workhorse chassis, Honda Accord toad

Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Explorer II
No need to shoot for perfection, reasonably level is fine. Our galley and fridge are midship and we place level on floor in front of fridge. Upon arrival we level TT side to side and chocks wheels, then level front to back using tongue jack.

If rain is in the forecast we may tilt TT to improve water runoff, as long as it is comfortable to walk around in our rig we know we are close enough for fridge to operate properly. We are going on our 8th year camping with our Dometic fridge and it continues to perform flawlessly.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
turbojimmy wrote:
My issue is that it depends on where I set the level. Galley counter is totally different than the living room table, which is different from the dash in the cab which is different from the floor of the box where the fridge is mounted. I use the dash in the cab because when it shows level, the whole rig feels level. The cooling unit in the fridge is new so I'm hoping it's not too sensitive. Seems to work well irrespective of level (so long as it's not way out).


that is why I leveled my MH with the level on the floor of the freezer compartment, then stuck a bullseye level on the console mushing it into a glob of silicone sealer to show level. then I could just level based on that and knew the refrigerator would be fine.
bumpy