Hughs Autoformer

Some posts have stated that you cannot draw more than the rated 30A breaker or it will trip.

The usual type of breaker used at home and campground pedestals is a thermal type. These do not trip immediately if you draw say 30.5 amps. I don't remember the exact number, but I think circuit breakers could take 125% of rated current and still not blow due to manufacturing tolerances. The time it takes a breaker to open is dependent on the amount of overcurrent. You might be able to draw 40 amps from a 30 amp breaker for 5 or 10 minutes before the breaker opens.

So unless your autoformer was continually drawing more than say 35 amps, it might not trip the breaker. How often are you drawing the full 30 amps? Maybe for a few minutes at a time if the microwave and AC are on at the same time along with some lights.

Steve

care to explain?

It really does not matter. My autoformer never leaves the bay. From shore I connect 30/50 amp cable, into compartment, to autoformer, to surge suppressor(which has low voltage shut down), to ATS. This allows the autoformer to shape the power before the surge suppressor. If after the surge suppressor, the surge suppressor may shut down before the autoformer can shape the power.

Hi,

So what will an autoformer do for a 15 amp circuit? And should the autoformer be at the shore power supply or should it be at the RV shore power connection?

Of course, you can always plug a 30 amp autoformer into the 50 amp outlet. Then the autoformer can pull as much current from the pedestal as necessary to give the RV 30 amps. That being said, I agree that while plugged into a 30 amp outlet, the autoformer can't provide more than about 25 amps to the RV without tripping the pedestal breaker.

It is stunning how "camping" has changed from "roughing it" to the status of "Bring Your Own Luxury Suite Here And Hook Up". Part of the legacy I guess of The Great Indoors.

To repeat much of what has been said in different terms, a correct 30 amp service will give you 30 amps at 120 volts, or 3,600 watts. If drawing 30 amps pulls the power feed down to 100 volts, the most you will get from that connection is 3,000 watts. You have the option of using an autoformer to convert that 100 volts at 30 amps to 120 volts at 25 amps (ignoring transformer losses which are pretty minimal). The example power-impaired campground gives you at most 3,000 watts. With the autoformer you can decide what you want the voltage-current relationship to be. One camper with an autoformer could very well be using less power than another camper not using an autoformer. It would take measuring everybody's power usage to decide exactly who is stealing from who.

YOu cannot draw more current than 30 or 50 amps through respective circuit breakers. I pay for 50 amps at 120 (a leg), it is the camp grounds resposibility to make it available. To not do so, they are stealing from paying customers. If I use what I pay for, I have stolen nothing. All complaints need to go to the CG office for situations where power is under provided.

This discussion will go on until the camper demands that the CG be responsible for providing what they promise and take money for. Then autoformers will be obsolete in the RV industry.

cross country wrote:
The autoformer reduces the amperage say to 20 or 25 amps to increase the voltage from 103 or so to 120. Nothing to do with anyone else's power outlet?

What you say is in accordance with the explanation on Autoformer's website (I believe the original company as long since been bought out by another company.):

http://autoformersdirect.com/how_does_it_work.php

However, something doesn't ring quite true here. Suppose your total RV needs 30 amps of 120 volt AC power? How can the Autoformer be providing you with the "full power that you are paying for" if it has to lesson the current available to your RV in order for it to increase the voltage seen by your RV?

I've read in other forums where folks don't think much of Autoformers - almost relegating to scam status what the company says it's products are indeed providing.

I stand by my earlier comments in this discussion above that if an Autoformer type product actually restored RV voltage to, say, 120 volts AC while at the same time making, say, 30 amps available at this restored higher voltage (in other words giving you fully what you are paying for - which the company admits it's product can't do) - the additional energy to do this HAS to come from the RV campground grid in the form of greater current draw going into your Autoformer than was originally coming into your RV before you were using an Autoformer. You can't get something for nothing.

The bottom line from the company is saying is .... can you get by with less total current for appliances in your RV in order to get higher voltage in your RV?