If RV fridge works does this mean the converter is working?

If RV fridge works does this mean the converter is working?

No.

As stated above, you need to get a voltmeter and check.

RJsfishin wrote:
Correct

cannesdo wrote:
If you're on shore power will the fridge work without a functionaing converter? My guess is no because it needs 12v power in order to operate -- correct?

It should get 12v from the battery if no converter, until the battery runs down.

Fred keeps saying 35AH per day to run the fridge on propane and detectors. I measured ours at 17AH a day. Standing 0.3a from other stuff plus 0.5a when the fridge burner comes on. Fridge burner was on approx 2/3 of a 24hr period it seems.

Correct

cannesdo wrote:
If you're on shore power will the fridge work without a functionaing converter? My guess is no because it needs 12v power in order to operate -- correct?

Hi,

While the refrigerator needs 12 volt power to run, it only needs about 0.7 amps, so it will work from the battery for a long time before the battery goes dead, and then it will stop working.

The CO and propane leak detectors also use 12 volt power, along with the refrigerator add up to about 1.2 amps per hour, or about 35 amp hours per day. This is about what one 120 watt solar panel will put back into the battery in 24 hours, or your inverter charger is capable of in about 1 hour.

If you have 4 batteries, then that adds up to about 400 amp hours, or plenty to run the refrigerator for about 10 days. If you also have a solar panel, of the 100 watt size range (about 2' X 3' or larger), then that can extend the time you can run small loads without the inverter/charger working and still have power.

Most every RV has a electrical meter. Check your control panel, normally there is tank levels and battery checker. It will only give a poor estimate of the battery charge, but at least it is something. If it reads empty or 1/3 or less, then you know that the charger is not working. If it reads full then you know it is working.

If you recently had the inverter/charger installed, it is possible that the installer did not disconnect the factory installed charger, and it can be running from inverter power to try to recharge the battery, and that might be the cause of the fuse tripping, and everything not working properly.

If you find the factory charger/converter, unplug it, and your problem might go away. You might also need to replace the fuse between the converter/charger and the battery. The post above suggests that this is a 40 amp fuse. It might also be a automatic reset circuit breaker. If the auto reset breaker, then it will reset once the factory converter/charger is unplugged, and sort of fix itself.

If the inverter/charger was factory installed, then consider this. Some versions need to be turned on to charge. My Trace inverter/charger has three modes. Off does nothing. Charge only does what is says, and is what will recharge the battery only, and not discharge the battery once you shut off the generator and/or disconnect from shore power.

Set to Standby will change over from generator power or shore power (charge mode) to inverter mode instantly when shore/generator power is lost, so that the clocks will still read the correct time. However set to standby will also use about 2 amps per hour, and discharge the battery fairly quickly, such as 3-4 days without shore power or solar recharging them.

It would help to know the inverter brand and possibly the size.

Do you have a remote control for the inverter?

Factory installed? Or did this problem start recently with the inverter installation?

Once you determine the problem, please write back, and let us know what helped out! IT helps us to know that the problem is solved.

Happy Camping!

Fred.

I looked at the schematic you posted on your other thread and see that you have an inverter/charger, not a stand alone converter.

You should be able to measure the 12V output from the inverter/charger at it's outputs and, if everything is not interrupted by a circuit breaker, failed charger, or bad connection to the batteries, that same voltage should be present when measuring across the battery terminals.

If you don't have a meter, get one. It is the handiest tool for diagnosing electrical problems. A test lamp won't tell you what voltages are present.

Edit: Check your other thread about electrical problems. I believe I found the answer to your questions about the fridge in this thread, the fridge is wired off the terminal strip with circuit breakers on the hot side. That's why the fridge has it's own fuse. Check the second breaker from the top on that terminal strip, it should be a 40 amp breaker. All of your other 12V devices with the exception of the breakaway system and jacks are powered through that 40 amp breaker. The jacks have their own 30 amp breaker.

The converter (120V AC input-----13.2V DC output) when on shore power provides the 12V DC system and charges battery.

Why do you think converter is not functioning?