Installing vinyl insert in C channel trim

[tarnold]

Trying to replace some grundgy 3/4" vinyl trim. This is for the trim pieces that generally go around hatches, doors etc. where there is a c-channel with a humped up length of vinyl that is inserted to hide the screw heads that hold the trim on. As long as its a long straight piece everything is ok. The vinyl will slip under the edge flange fine UNTIL I reach a corner or incure a hump or dip. I've used a hair dryer to heat up the vinyl to make those 90 degree bends but when it cools, they pop right back out. I've tried silicone adhesive and tapeing the trim to try hold in place, but it just will not stay. Is there some special tool used to insert this stuff? Anybody know of a video showing how to do this? I've been to utube but could'nt find anything.

[Bumpyroad]

tarnold wrote:
How fast does it dry? Is it like contact cement?

they have a quick dry and a slow dry but that may only be for the 5200.
bumpy

[tarnold]

How fast does it dry? Is it like contact cement?

[Bumpyroad]

for just the corners, us 3M 4200 adhesive. if you really want it to stick, use the 5200 but you will need dynamite to get it off.
bumpy

[Road_Runners]

I had a problem with my fiver along a curved radius that went from horizontal along the roof edge and then gently curved to vertical around the joint between the nose cap and fiver's side. The vinyle would stick in the curve till we got to going down the road then the curved portion would come loose.

I solved the problem ten years ago by removing the screws from the metal trim radius that held the vinyl around the curve. I filled all the empty screw holes with silicon caulk and then replaced the vinyl before screwing stainless steel round head screws back where the old screws were in the metal trim. I had to mark the location of the screw holes so I knew where the stainless screws were to screwed in. It looks neat and I haven't had any problems with leaking. Most of all the vinyl trim stayed in place

[Francesca_Knowl]

Warming the trim with a hairdryer will allow it to "stretch" around curves. You want to gently elongate the outside edge, thus avoiding humping on the inside edge.

For true, square right angles, I recommend just "picture-frame" cutting.

[tarnold]

Op again. Yes this is the right size. Came home first with some one inch and determined that I have 3/4 and had to make a second trip. I can get it to snap in place on long straight sections, its just the curves and humps that are gettin me. Something about the inside of the cuve is a lot shorter than the outside. and that is where it is scrunching up and poping out. Will see if anybody else responds then I'm going to have to get the hot glue gun out and just do inches at a time. The silicone adhesive just takes too long to dry.

[BobsYourUncle]

Do you have the right trim for your replacement?

I have done lots of this stuff and the trim is usually a nice tight fit and requires no caulking or anything else to hold it in place, including going around corners.

There are usually 2 little lips that stick inside the aluminum channel to hold it in place and you should have to apply pressure to the molding to get it in. That is you should have to bend the center of the trim, or arch it up in the middle to get the second lip into the groove.

Try taking a small one inch piece and sticking it in there. Then wiggle it from side to side. If there is any play in it it could be that the trim is too small.

The heat gun on the corners is a good idea to help it along.