This past weekend we pulled our 5th wheel to a buddy's cabin. He had wired up a 30 amp plug in for us at his place. I went to plug in my camper and heard a big electrical sound buzz sound. I unplugged the cord right away and the inside of the camper smelled like a electrical fire... I pulled the fuse/breaker panel and converter out but did not find any melted wires or burnt fuses, just the double pull 15 amp breaker that is shared between the water heater and the utility converter. So I pulled the panel off the breaker cabinet in the cabin and found that he had wired the 30 amp plug in to his old washing machine breaker which is a 30 amp double pull 220V because he had bought the wrong breaker for his particular cabinet... My battery will not charge and anytime I plug my power cord in to a 30 amp plug in it now smells extremely hot in the area around the converter. Did my converter get fried from the extra electricity?

Yup. Smoke is out.http://www.bestconverter.com/DLS-30-30-Amp-Power-Converter-wIQ4_p_335.html#.V4WqObgrKUkhttp://www.progressiveindustries.net/#!ems-hw50c/cjk6

Yep..converter is friedYou're lucky if that is ALL.RV AC Electrical System is 120V AC and does NOT play well when 240V AC is applied.Just a suggestion...BEFORE plugging into ANY power receptacle for your trailer.....test/verify with meter that it is 120V AC vs 240V AC30A receptacles get mis-wired ALOT!

Hope your Buddy's Cabin has some insurance... The Converter/charger will most likely not be the only circuit fried. Several other items are always 'ON'...This is a typical RV PEDESTAL wiring setup for both RV50A and RV30A service..google imageThis is what you should measure with a multimeter around the RV50A and RV30A receptacles before plugging into to themRV50 SERVICEgoogle imageRV30A-RV15A-20A SERVICEgoogle imageSorry for your loses but this happens all the time when Family and Friends want to help out and don't understand why RV's are different than Houses... Having this happen to you from a licensed and bonded Electrician would be covered by their Insurance... With Family and Friends we know who will get to pay this bill... Several items have sensors boards that are wired to the 120VAC lines like the Microwave-Fridge-Home Entertainment- etc Depending what demand state the Hot Water heater was is another possibility for failure. All of this will add up money wise in a big hurry...I'm always worried even plugging into the Camp Ground Pedestals but since these are used everyday by someone you are probably in good shape not checking first... About all I have ever caught at a campground is low voltages... New Wiring etc I will always grab my multimeter and check first...Roy Ken

You probably need a new converter, and maybe a television, microwave, and refrigerator controls. These are all things I have read of being cooked in your situation.Learn to never plug into anything without testing it, even campground pedestals.

smkettner wrote:Yup. Smoke is out.Hey, that's my line :) Feel free to use it.Yes, you smoked it.. I do not know if IOTA sells a replacement for the electronics.. But Progressive Dynamics does 4645) No need to replace EVERYTHING.You may also need new Television, Radio, Microwave, And control boards for the Fridge and water heater and A/Cs.. Just so you knowWhile you are at it.. Pick up a Progressive Industries HW-30C and wire that in ahead of your power center.That way, the NEXT time you plug in to a buddy's 30 amp outlet.. No harm will be done.. No power passed, but no harm done.

Iota ILC-3045 load center/power converter | Good Sam Community

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 23, 2016
Amazing. Simply Amazing...
time2roll
Nomad
Jul 23, 2016
Just replace the converter module. Load center is fine unless you see items damaged by heat.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 23, 2016
Right only need to replace the electronics in the power center.. and anything else that is damaged The breakers do not care about voltage for the most part. So they should be OK, likewise the bus bars.

I will stress again the need for a Progressive INdustries HW-30c.. That will protect you the next time this happens.
DrewE
Explorer II
Jul 23, 2016
donniew_1 wrote:
So do I need to replace just the load center/power converter or do I need to replace the 110 breakers, bus bar and 12 v fuse panel? All appliances seem to be in working order except the hot water heater because the before mentioned breaker is shared with the converter. Also, only two of the outlets are working; the kitchen and bath, is that because they are gfi outlets?

12V fuse panel: no need to replace anything.

120V breakers, bus bar, etc: if they look OK and switch on and off as expected, no. I wouldn't be surprised if the breakers are rated to work at 240V anyhow. (I am sure they are rated to interrupt a much higher voltage, but that's not the same as an operational spec.) The only time a circuit breaker sees the full line voltage across it is when tripped; when not tripped, it has essentially no potential difference across its terminals.

The kitchen and bath (GFCI) outlets are on a different circuit than the other outlets in your RV. The others may be on the same circuit as the converter. I'm rather surprised the water heater is not on a dedicated circuit--perhaps you mean that it's a separate circuit controlled by the other half of a twin breaker that powers the converter.
donniew_1
Explorer
Jul 23, 2016
donniew_1 wrote:
So do I need to replace just the load center/power converter or do I need to replace the 110 breakers, bus bar and 12 v fuse panel as well? All appliances seem to be in working order except the hot water heater because the before mentioned breaker is shared with the converter. Also, only two of the outlets are working; the kitchen and bath, is that because they are gfi outlets?
donniew_1
Explorer
Jul 23, 2016
So do I need to replace just the load center/power converter or do I need to replace the 110 breakers, bus bar and 12 v fuse panel? All appliances seem to be in working order except the hot water heater because the before mentioned breaker is shared with the converter. Also, only two of the outlets are working; the kitchen and bath, is that because they are gfi outlets?
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 13, 2016
smkettner wrote:
Yup. Smoke is out.

Hey, that's my line :) Feel free to use it.

Yes, you smoked it.. I do not know if IOTA sells a replacement for the electronics.. But Progressive Dynamics does 4645) No need to replace EVERYTHING.

You may also need new Television, Radio, Microwave, And control boards for the Fridge and water heater and A/Cs.. Just so you know

While you are at it.. Pick up a Progressive Industries HW-30C and wire that in ahead of your power center.

That way, the NEXT time you plug in to a buddy's 30 amp outlet.. No harm will be done.. No power passed, but no harm done.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jul 13, 2016
You probably need a new converter, and maybe a television, microwave, and refrigerator controls. These are all things I have read of being cooked in your situation.

Learn to never plug into anything without testing it, even campground pedestals.
RoyB
Explorer II
Jul 13, 2016
Hope your Buddy's Cabin has some insurance... The Converter/charger will most likely not be the only circuit fried. Several other items are always 'ON'...

This is a typical RV PEDESTAL wiring setup for both RV50A and RV30A service..

google image

This is what you should measure with a multimeter around the RV50A and RV30A receptacles before plugging into to them

RV50 SERVICE

google image

RV30A-RV15A-20A SERVICE

google image

Sorry for your loses but this happens all the time when Family and Friends want to help out and don't understand why RV's are different than Houses... Having this happen to you from a licensed and bonded Electrician would be covered by their Insurance... With Family and Friends we know who will get to pay this bill...

Several items have sensors boards that are wired to the 120VAC lines like the Microwave-Fridge-Home Entertainment- etc Depending what demand state the Hot Water heater was is another possibility for failure. All of this will add up money wise in a big hurry...

I'm always worried even plugging into the Camp Ground Pedestals but since these are used everyday by someone you are probably in good shape not checking first... About all I have ever caught at a campground is low voltages...

New Wiring etc I will always grab my multimeter and check first...

Roy Ken
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 13, 2016
Yep..converter is fried

You're lucky if that is ALL.

RV AC Electrical System is 120V AC and does NOT play well when 240V AC is applied.

Just a suggestion...

BEFORE plugging into ANY power receptacle for your trailer.....test/verify with meter that it is 120V AC vs 240V AC
30A receptacles get mis-wired ALOT!