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Is an RV generator worth it?

bikerv1369
Explorer
Explorer
My RV has an Onan Microlite 4000 generator that has been well maintained. It now starts but stops running as soon as I release the Start button. My mechanic identifies the problem as electrical and mostly likely due to wires being chewed by a rat or mouse. To fix the problem he says he'll need to drop the generator out of the RV to get access to all the wiring and check for other damage, and I suspect the work won't be fast or cheap.

In the interim, I can run my inverter with the RV engine idling and get the same power I get from the generator. At idle, my Ford E350 Triton V10 burns about 0.7gph, while running the generator burns about 0.5gph. At $3/gallon for gas, that extra 0.2 gallons costs me 60 cents per hour. BUT... for every 150 hours of generator usage I pay Camping World $150 for a generator service - which means NOT running the generator saves me $1 per hour in maintenance. In other words, looking only at these factors, it is 40 cents an hour cheaper for me to run the inverter with the engine idling than it is to run the generator. And for what it's worth, the RV engine runs quieter than the generator, and its exhaust is less of a nuisance. So my question is:

IS AN RV GENERATOR WORTH IT?

The replacement cost for my generator is over $3,000. And if the RV didn't have a working generator it would lose a lot of resale value, so that alone justifies going forward with repairs. But other than that, once it's repaired:

WHY RUN THE GENERATOR IF RUNNING THE INVERTER WITH THE ENGINE IDLING COSTS LESS PER HOUR?

One response I'd expect is that running the engine has a maintenance cost too, but at $75 per WalMart oil change every 3 months or 3,000 miles regardless, I'm not sure the incremental wear and tear would even be measurable.

WHAT AM I MISSING HERE?
73 REPLIES 73

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
jharrell wrote:
CoeyCoey wrote:
Listen genius. It doesn't matter the length, because even at 24 feet, the gauge for 30 amps is still 10 gauge. And if you had any reading comprehension skills, you would have realized I am not the one with the broken Onan, and that I mentioned the alternator would be 120vac for my setup, and that my batteries would be 24vdc. I will have 20kWh of battery power and run the AC for over 10 hours, and use the 120vac alternator to produce 3,000W at 1,200 rpm if I need it. Also, the intermittent LRA would only require a 12 gauge wire from the batteries to the inverter. If you are such a great engineer, how come you don't know that continuous current requires larger wires than intermittent current?


Interested in an automotive alternator that does single phase 120v steady 60Hz 3000w continuous at 1,200 rpm do you have more details?


Here ya go ... 120V AC belt driven "generators" for underhood installation on various vehicles: https://www.fabcopower.com/generat/bgen.htm
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

maillemaker
Explorer
Explorer
It's right behind my flux capacitor! ๐Ÿ™‚

Steve
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"

jharrell
Explorer
Explorer
CoeyCoey wrote:
Listen genius. It doesn't matter the length, because even at 24 feet, the gauge for 30 amps is still 10 gauge. And if you had any reading comprehension skills, you would have realized I am not the one with the broken Onan, and that I mentioned the alternator would be 120vac for my setup, and that my batteries would be 24vdc. I will have 20kWh of battery power and run the AC for over 10 hours, and use the 120vac alternator to produce 3,000W at 1,200 rpm if I need it. Also, the intermittent LRA would only require a 12 gauge wire from the batteries to the inverter. If you are such a great engineer, how come you don't know that continuous current requires larger wires than intermittent current?


Interested in an automotive alternator that does single phase 120v steady 60Hz 3000w continuous at 1,200 rpm do you have more details?
2016 Winnebago Vista 31be - Blue Ox Rear Track Bar - Centramatic Wheel balancers
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad - Readybrute Elite Towbar

camperdave
Explorer
Explorer
FWIW, at least on my generator, disconnect the fuel line and some wiring, then pull 4 bolts and drop it with a floor jack. Not real tough to pull it out.

I'd for sure fix it, I love having the built in genny. AC as needed, and high powered battery charging.

Long term idling of the truck engine is not good for a number of reasons, I would not do that on any frequent basis.
2004 Fleetwood Tioga 29v

4x4van
Explorer III
Explorer III
CoeyCoey wrote:
HadEnough wrote:
CoeyCoey wrote:
2oldman wrote:
HadEnough wrote:
Yikes. 00 is where I'd be. At least.
Yeah. His post seems to indicate he's running 4 separate #10 to the inverter. Length of wire, connections and TIME are what make #10 for 30 amps risky. Running high-amp draws requires extra due diligence. Charts are one thing, operation is another. I speak from experience.


I'll go by what engineers have discovered rather than the anecdotal experiences of someone online, thanks. Also, been an aircraft mechanic for over 25 years, and never have I seen an issue from using the wire sizes stated in the charts.


Well, you didn't name the distance yet, now did you?

If we're having a pee niss contest here, things I've designed and built are still in space and make the news on occasion, as they send data back to Earth regarding plasma levels in the heliosphere.

But I do stand corrected in the sense this is an inverter connection you're talking about. I had thought this was your run from the monster alternator you'll need to install to the battery bank.

In any case, get the generator fixed. As an engineer you should already see that you absolutely cannot run your air conditioner off the setup you propose.

Your LRA is around 3500 watts. At 12v that's 291 amps between the inverter a d batteries not counting losses from the inversion process. So round to 300 amps on those wires.

You're at 1500 watts all day long running that air conditioning. That's 125 amps per hour battery draw all day long. Or... If running that engine you need to increase the idle and have about a 200amp rated alternator to keep up. With no other load. Except at idle, even high idle, a 200amp alternator puts out less than half its rated current. Or put another way, you can't do this. You can't get an alternator that will keep up with an RV air conditioner. You'd have to use a belt driven compressor.

By the time you Rube Goldberg all that together, you would have made a far better choice just fixing the Onan.



Listen genius. It doesn't matter the length, because even at 24 feet, the gauge for 30 amps is still 10 gauge. And if you had any reading comprehension skills, you would have realized I am not the one with the broken Onan, and that I mentioned the alternator would be 120vac for my setup, and that my batteries would be 24vdc. I will have 20kWh of battery power and run the AC for over 10 hours, and use the 120vac alternator to produce 3,000W at 1,200 rpm if I need it. Also, the intermittent LRA would only require a 12 gauge wire from the batteries to the inverter. If you are such a great engineer, how come you don't know that continuous current requires larger wires than intermittent current?

So, go take your know-it-all self and join the club of the other know-it-alls with poor reading comprehension skills I have already admonished for spewing ignorant **** on this forum in the week that I have been here.

OK then.:R

Coeycoey, it might interest you to reread Hadenough's post and realize that everything after "In any case" was referring to the OP, not you. Sit down, relax, and have a beer.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
maillemaker wrote:
Your engine's alternator will not provide the same level of power as a 4000 KW generator
Holy c**p! Where did you find a 4000 KW generator?

Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Explorer II
They can pricey to repair. My 5500 started putting out 60 volts.

Bad rotor. $900 ten years ago. Just for the rotor.

Thing is Iโ€™ve worked on rotating machinery and wound many motors and transformers. But I just didnโ€™t have time to rewind it.

So I was going to buy it and replace it myself and the parts guy is like โ€œ If you drop that or itโ€™s bad, there is no warranty on it if you install itโ€.

So I let the dealer do it which gave me a 90 day warranty.
My Kharma ran over my Dogma.

maillemaker
Explorer
Explorer
Your engine's alternator will not provide the same level of power as a 4000 KW generator. If you need to run your air conditioning or the microwave, you will probably need your generator.

I learned about generators last year. Ours quit working during the solar eclipse. Initially discovered a cracked fuel line back at the tank. Got that fixed, generator would run for some amount of time and then shut down. I spent the better part of a year farting around trying to fix it, and in the end the nuclear option was cheaper and faster.

My generator is an Onan 4BGE. You can get great Onan advice here:

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1

After going to an Onan service facility, the guy did not have a tech in but he pointed out what I needed to do to do the work myself in his parking lot. He figured it was the ignition control module. He sold me a used one for $50, it seemed to do the job, but after I got home (of course) my problems returned.

Finally I pulled the genset. Mine is on a "swing down" pan. I bought a cheap rolling dolly from Harbor Freight, stacked some 4x4 pieces on it to get close to the belly of the unit, and then used a hydraulic jack to lift it off its hinges and lower it onto the dolly. I can now remove the generator in about 20 minutes. It's not that hard on my unit.

Working on these units is much harder if you don't pull them out. It can be done, but at 48 it's hard for me on my knees.

I also discovered that on the 4BGE you can replace the the entire ignition system, including the starter, for less than $200. I found an aftermarket coil and an aftermarket (and improved) starter. Had to buy Onan for the ignition control module. Also replaced the condenser and the spark plugs. With that, the engine will run (assuming nothing mechanical has gone wrong with the motor, which is very rare so long as the thing was not run without oil). 90% of the time the problem is getting the motor to run, not getting the gen head to make power.

The other 2 parts to replace on my genset were the voltage regulator and the control board. VR is about $200, CB is about $150, both available from Flight Systems. Both of these parts are super easy to replace on the 4BGE and are right behind the outward-facing switch box on the front of the genset. Flight Systems will test these parts for you for $35, and the price is refundable if you end up buying a replacement part from them.

The other likely problem with these things is a gummed up carb from sitting. Replacement carbs are about $300. You can take them apart and clean them but it can be fiddly and then you have to worry about leaks but it can be done.

So, the upshot of this is, it's not terribly hard to fix one of these things, and the cost savings can be significant doing it yourself.
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
bikerv1369 wrote:
I started this thread by asking:

IS AN RV GENERATOR WORTH IT?

The answer seems clear:

YES, IT IS.

Even with my solar/inverter setup, I cannot run the coach a/c or microwave without the generator, and without sunlight I can't run much else without running the engine. There's also the RV resale value to consider. So yes, I will be repairing my generator.

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT!


That's the best decision!

Actually a generator should "come first" in an RV, with solar added later if one wants to eventually have both. A generator provides complete self-containment in an RV by providing full power anywhere, anytime for normal situations, and unexpected or emergency situations.

As an example of "emergency" use - in addition to non-emergency air conditioning and microwave use - a generator can allow you to cook and bake using portable counter-top electric appliances, stay warm with electric heaters, and continue to have an operating refrigerator ... all in the event of a propane system failure.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

bikerv1369
Explorer
Explorer
I started this thread by asking:

IS AN RV GENERATOR WORTH IT?

The answer seems clear:

YES, IT IS.

Even with my solar/inverter setup, I cannot run the coach a/c or microwave without the generator, and without sunlight I can't run much else without running the engine. There's also the RV resale value to consider. So yes, I will be repairing my generator.

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT!

twodownzero
Explorer
Explorer
I wish my trailer had a generator that only needed a few wires repaired to get it up and going! I have a spot for a generator but no generator. That's way more expensive than a few wires.

turbojimmy
Explorer
Explorer
bikerv1369 wrote:
I apologize. I neglected to mention (a) I have 2 solar panels on the roof feeding 5 marine batteries to augment my inverter and (b) both the mechanic and I saw at least some of the rat/mouse chewed wires. I wonder if that might have changed some of your responses (which I appreciate).


Unless you saw mouse/rat chewed wires in the generator compartment then that's not likely your problem. There are a lot of threads on this subject but thankfully I haven't had this problem so I don't know what the recommended fixes are. I would try EVERYTHING before I resorted to pulling the generator out.
1984 Allegro M-31 (Dead Metal)

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Since you have an RV generator... YES it is worth fixing.

+1 for a second opinion/estimate.

suprz
Explorer
Explorer
Is a RV generator worth it?

YES
Proud father of a US Marine

bikerv1369
Explorer
Explorer
I apologize. I neglected to mention (a) I have 2 solar panels on the roof feeding 5 marine batteries to augment my inverter and (b) both the mechanic and I saw at least some of the rat/mouse chewed wires. I wonder if that might have changed some of your responses (which I appreciate).