Leveling with half of a Lynx block??

[profdant139]

We use those Lynx blocks (they look like giant Legos) to level our trailer. Works well, does not slip, easy to store and to clean.

But every so often, a stack two blocks high is not enough, while three blocks are too many.

Has anyone developed a halfway step? I tried to make one out of wood and it did not work well -- it tended to slip out of place as I drove the trailer up onto the stack of blocks.

Thanks in advance for your ideas and advice!

[NormC56]

I can always get my TC close enough with 2×10 blocks. Sometimes use camper removal Jacks as stabilizers in high wind situations. Visit Giant Rock near Landers, CA at your own risk.

[profdant139]

Great --thanks!!

[SoundGuy]

profdant139 wrote:
Thanks for posting that photo! Very helpful.

A few more pics start here if you're interested. Click on "i" (top right) for a text description.

[profdant139]

Thanks for posting that photo! Very helpful.

[SoundGuy]

profdant139 wrote:
rockhill mentioned the issue of slipping. Whether I put a piece of plywood under the stack or over it, the plywood does not stay perfectly in place. The Lynx blocks, of course, move as a unit, since they are interconnected.

Ergo the reason I created my DIY Lynx/Wood system in which a base layer of Lynx is affixed to the wood base - no slippage. For a single axle trailer like yours a simple base layer with 3 or 4 Lynx would work just fine, for dual axle trailers I prefer a base that's hinged so it folds for compact storage. Here's a single axle version I used a few years ago with a popup we owned at the time.



For elevating the trailer's low side just one or two Lynx heights no half Lynx are needed, for 3 levels a half Lynx at each end of the stack on the second row allows you to make use of the full length of the stack at the third level for chocks once the trailer is centred over the stack. Lynx caps really don't make much difference in elevating the trailer's low side, they merely prevent the tires from sinking into the various Lynx depressions. Over time they tend to also bend from the weight of the trailer bearing down on them and over time distort pretty badly - IMO not much advantage to using them.

[discovery4us]

If you carry an air compressor you could just let air out of the tires on the high side until level. Or I guess add air to the low side so when you are ready to leave you let air out instead of having to air back up.

[time2roll]

profdant139 wrote:
We use those Lynx blocks (they look like giant Legos) to level our trailer. Works well, does not slip, easy to store and to clean.

But every so often, a stack two blocks high is not enough, while three blocks are too many.

Has anyone developed a halfway step? I tried to make one out of wood and it did not work well -- it tended to slip out of place as I drove the trailer up onto the stack of blocks.

Thanks in advance for your ideas and advice!

I error on leaning the trailer to the side where the fresh water pick-up is in the tank.... left side. Never tried to get it more level than that.

[Lynnmor]

Those caps will only cover the protrusions and add just the wall thickness of the plastic. They are a good idea anytime to protect both the tires and the blocks.

[profdant139]

RC, that does look promising. But when we went to that link, we saw that the manufacturer said "Will not increase stack height."

Since I am in fact trying to increase the stack height by a half block, I am not sure those would do the job.

But maybe the manufacturer is wrong?? Have you used those caps?

[RCMAN46]

To the OP.

Even though I submitted an easy solution to Lynx half blocks so far the suggestion has not been acknowledged.

Lynx half block.

[rockhillmanor]

Stop adding the wood.

I've been rv'ing all over and show in a sport that is always on ground of all types including sand. I just use the blocks and if you drive 'slowly' up on them and 'on spot' they don't move. Run at them and they will move!

the picture I posted for an example was the honey comb type.

I immediately found out when crossing into Florida with all the sand that that type of blocks just shattered into pieces when used on ground.

I switched to the solid ones and no problem. Key is placing them pyramid style. Which gives you the gradual lift for the tire to climb up on. I also will scratch the ground if there is a lot of sand with a simple hand held garden tool with tines, then place the blocks in the indentation.

[bucky]

fj12ryder wrote:

bucky wrote:
We sure get bored in the colder months don't we. I've seen RVs more than a foot out of level more than once and the occupants were happy as clams.

Some people may be fine that way, others, including the OP, are not. He was asking for suggestions that will help with his wife's inability to tolerate out-of-level conditions. A little tolerance is a wonderful thing.

I wasn't referring to the OP or his wife. I was referring to things that normally wouldn't draw a reply that now get 30 or more. The 30 would include your sanctimonious one.

[wnjj]

For the OP: In case you’re in a spot where Dutchman’s idea won’t work because you’re short of Lynx, drill several holes in your plywood spacers so you can use zip ties to tether them under or on top of the Lynx. If you don’t need them next time, just cut them free.

[wnjj]

I’m one of those who likes it really level too for some of the following reasons:

1. If my head is even 1/2” lower than my feet it feels like I’m doing a headstand when sleeping (little exaggeration there but I can tell). This is front to back on our truck camper.

2. While the fridge will run fine a little out of level, I hate when I open the door and it keeps shutting on my arm when I’m getting stuff in or out.

3. Even fry and egg or make pancakes? It’s tough when they run to one side of the pan.