Locating a neutral buss bar

Some examples of marine bus bars:http://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=buss+bar

Not sure you are looking at a neutral bar if it is pop riveted to the sides of the box.

mchero wrote:
Assisting an RV'er in an older gasser that had a neutral buss bar meltdown. Stranded neutral feeding the buss bar connected to the lowest connection, Heated up, got real hot and discolored above neutral taps and partially melted bus bar into plastic insulator.

Well, above RV'er made a mad dash down to the local RV repair and was told she needed e NEW Xfer switch! Well, in my eyes all she needs is a new neutral bus bar! Looks as though this bus bar is pop riveted in two places to the side of the panel.

Any online sources for such a bus bar? I'd say about 8 to 10 connections, I forgot to get a picture. I'm in Quartzsite so today I'll sniff around town to see if I can locate something.

That time of year people plug in electric heaters and find out the hard way they have a bad connection.

Thoughts ideas?

Thanks all

Home Depot look in the Breaker / boxes isle

mchero wrote:
Heated up, got real hot and discolored above neutral taps and partially melted bus bar into plastic insulator.

Well, above RV'er made a mad dash down to the local RV repair and was told she needed e NEW Xfer switch!

The buss bar partially melted into the plastic insulator and the RV place wanted to sell her a new transfer switch?

Did they say anything about the buss bar?

And, could you furnish the name of the RV place? It sounds like a good place to avoid.

Lowes, Home Depot or any well equiped hard ware store. In same isle as circuit breakers.

Richard

Yes, any H/W store has them but keep in mind that the neutral buss bar must be isolated from the housing of the panel. So it should have some kind of insulators under it.

rhochnadel wrote:
Not sure you are looking at a neutral bar if it is pop riveted to the sides of the box.

Most likely the non-conducting material that the neutral buss bar is anchored to is what is pop riveted to the side of the box.

I would be looking into the reason for the meltdown and correct the problem.

are you talking about the breaker panel or the Transfer switch
the internal parts are usually MFG only BIG lot items, not individual pieces you buy off the shelf

your best option might be to over to Rice Ranch to the RV accessories dealer there
the back room under the tent has all kinds of surplus and swapped out salvage components electrical and mechanical

find the breaker box or switch or panel that has the right size buss bar
the cheapest will be an old manual home fuse panel switch box
and buy the box, then remove and use the neutral bus in the place of the burned one

you might be able to go online and find a terminal strip/buss
but it would be a make do option

these are NOT normally individual parts
the RV guy did not lie, they don't have parts for TS repair

the whole process might cost more than its worth
you might find a used TS complete for less $$ at the rice ranch location
just inspect it closely before purchase

Reason? Would I be rash in stating the subject of loose set screws and huge problems have been discussed on this forum 100+ times?

This is exactly why I went 100% marine electricals with Quicksilver. When a stick and brick dwelling jumps the foundation and runs off down the road then I put rear view mirrors on it.

But some folks read the advice about removing panel covers and tightening connections and the information leaks out of their ear onto the linoleum.

Tighten the snot out of everything. Breakers need to be yanked hard to proof their tightness. Loose breakers mean annealed contact tangs - replace them or risk a fire.

Sigh. In one ear - on a 4 lane highway and out the other :)

rhochnadel wrote:
Not sure you are looking at a neutral bar if it is pop riveted to the sides of the box.

Uhhhh, white neutral wires from each branch circuit connected to a buss bar mounted on an insulating material to isolate from the grounded case is not a neutral buss bar???????.

The neutral feed is braided wire, loose connection on braided copper wire caused the heat. Heat traveled UP the buss bar.

Thanks for the ideas/suggestions.

RM