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Looking for Fridge Suggestions

SGTJOE
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just had my old Dometic NDR1292 removed and had a Magic Chef installed. I was really happy until I found the User's Manual and read "not designed to be installed in an rv or used with an inverter" Now if this wasn't enough it also stated "ambient Temperature below 50"F or above 85 F will hinder the performance of the appliance. Working with dealer for not telling me.

So I'm looking for suggestions as to what residential fridge would work I need to be able to have a counter depth one where I can open the door to a max of 50 inches. Width 32 inches and height not to exceed 62 inches.

For those of you who have residential fridges in your RV can you send me the make and model number. I might be able to work with the height.
My MH is a 2001 National Tradewinds model 7390.
2001 Trade Winds 7390
Toad 03 Grand Am
20 REPLIES 20

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would invest in a 1000w PSW inverter to power it if you dry camp often. Otherwise I would not worry about doing anything different.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45โ€™...

SGTJOE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Matt, thanks for all the positive info, I sure can use that about now. Where I am at home in Saint George, Utah we are at around 100-103 degrees for now until winter sets in. I turned the Magic Chef back on today and set the freezer and fridge at the coldest setting, will check it out later tonight. The MH sits beside my house with 50amp hook up.
2001 Trade Winds 7390
Toad 03 Grand Am

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
SGTJOE wrote:
I just had my old Dometic NDR1292 removed and had a Magic Chef installed. I was really happy until I found the User's Manual and read " Now if this wasn't enough it also stated "ambient Temperature below 50"F or above 85 F will hinder the performance of the appliance. Working with dealer for not telling me.

So I'm looking for suggestions as to what residential fridge would work I need to be able to have a counter depth one where I can open the door to a max of 50 inches. Width 32 inches and height not to exceed 62 inches.

For those of you who have residential fridges in your RV can you send me the make and model number. I might be able to work with the height.
My MH is a 2001 National Tradewinds model 7390.


Sgt Joe,

Were I you, I would leave what you have right where it is....
Because: (Let's tackle that first paragraph)
"not designed to be installed in an rv or used with an inverter"
It is not designed to be installed in a RV because 5ers and TT bounce down the road and they never included vibration in their testing. The back of some Cs can get rough, but if your Tradewinds got that rough, you would have to plan to collect the dishes at every stop.
Or used with an inverter....
If you have enough inverter to get the pump (compressor) started as fast as line power, you have no problem. If you are wondering, open the back side panel and have someone shift the temperature control until it starts. If it starts right up, you are good. You probably have enough house bank (2*GC2 is good) and a 1500+VA inverter. You are good there.
The 50ยฐ and 85ยฐ are another issue that won't matter much. The 50ยฐ is probably where the automatic defrost won't work and the 85ยฐ just means it will have to work harder and maybe the ice cream will be soft.

Now, there is a little Gotcha here....
RV reefers are all cooled by a rear coil system and outside air that comes in the back panel and goes out the roof vent. No residential is made that way these days. The cooling is done on the sides of the unit, so you can't build it in tight. It will want an inch or more of clear space on both sides that is open to the living space. This also means that the outside air can come around the sides of the installed unit. That, you have to figure out on your own because I can't see what you have there.

You may also have to invent some way to keep the door(s) closed.

I have had good success with three installations (after the first that was not so good, but still worked).

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
i agree but the "murphy" in me suggests you continue to plan to replace it when and if failure occurs. pre-planning now will save grief and anxiety later. purchasing anything in a hurry is never a good idea.

we have a Westinghouse french door/lower freezer but it is too big for your space.
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
2oldman wrote:
I'd leave it, and take those warnings as lawyer-speak. That refer doesn't know the difference between shore power and inverter, unless it's a really crappy inverter.


X2. They write that stuff simply because they have not evaluated it and just want to CYA.
No way I would just replace it.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'd leave it, and take those warnings as lawyer-speak. That refer doesn't know the difference between shore power and inverter, unless it's a really crappy inverter.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman