More fun with Renogy MPPT and LFP
Toying with a new to me 12V compressor car fridge. Cheap Chinese box, LG compressor, 50L volume split ~28L fridge, 22L freezer. The goal was to see whether my added insulation made any difference: Ref...
Forum Discussion
JimK-NY wrote:
I have never seen a controller which actually shut down the draw on the batteries and certainly doing so at 12.6 would make absolutely no sense. Even fully charged batteries could easily drop down to that level with just a compressor fridge and another load such as a furnace blower.
Instead it is highly likely that the compressor refrigerator/freezer has a shut down when voltage drops to somewhere around 11.0 - 11.5 volts. If that happened right away then your initial battery charge was low and/or the wiring to the refrigerator was insufficient.
The load was connected to Load terminals. This is what they do, disconnect (or not) load from the controller.
The battery is LFP, it has 20% SOC at 12.5V. I set LVD slightly higher to 12.6 - or I thought that I did, see the explanations about the app, LVD and Discharge Limit.
Thin wire to the fridge and controller cutting off at 11V means that the fridge was at 10.5V at that moment. Should've cut off at 12V measured at the fridge - which would've been ~12.5 measured at the controller.
There was supposed to be 2 levels of protection - fridge and Load terminals, but none worked. Actually, 3 levels if you count the "low voltage alarm" that apparently is not an alarm but a "warning" in the way of a blinking LED.
