Multimeter recommendation?
I'm looking to buy a multimeter, as my rig's refrigerator doesn't work on electric but still works on gas. There is power to its outlet (of course, that would be too easy of a fix..) and I know my ne...
Forum Discussion
Kansas,
You have a lot of great advice here. Some of us are like BB_TX. I am one of those.
I will guess by the way you asked that you currently have nothing. Let me make some suggestions.
At Hazard Fright, you can get a truly cheap Mutlimeter. That cheap CCV will do 95% of what you can do within your current experience level. Get one of those. (~7$us when not on sale.)
Then go to a storefront car parts place and get a socket with two wire leads (not a tail light base they have two leads for a two filament bulb), and a 12V bulb to fit that socket. If the have plain alligator clips there, get at least 2. Put this together and you have a test light that can clip on. "Does it have power?" can instantly be answered and this is better than a meter because the bulb actually requires that the circuit can supply power.
Those two items will allow you to do most of the diagnosis of what needs in an RV.
Want more? For 120V things a non-contact voltage detector is nice. Cost less than 10$ and you can't get hurt. Just hold it near the wire.
If you think you want more, learn more first. Then we can help you spend a lot more money. A lot more money.
What is with this guy?
Prior becoming a licensed ships engineer, I sailed as electrician. After I retired, I set up a company that did a lot of electrical work on boats. I did a lot of trouble shooting at that.
Behind me is a full Fluke case that is insured for 800$. In the drawer next to me is one of the cheapo Mutli from Harbor freight. It all has its place.
Matt
You have a lot of great advice here. Some of us are like BB_TX. I am one of those.
I will guess by the way you asked that you currently have nothing. Let me make some suggestions.
At Hazard Fright, you can get a truly cheap Mutlimeter. That cheap CCV will do 95% of what you can do within your current experience level. Get one of those. (~7$us when not on sale.)
Then go to a storefront car parts place and get a socket with two wire leads (not a tail light base they have two leads for a two filament bulb), and a 12V bulb to fit that socket. If the have plain alligator clips there, get at least 2. Put this together and you have a test light that can clip on. "Does it have power?" can instantly be answered and this is better than a meter because the bulb actually requires that the circuit can supply power.
Those two items will allow you to do most of the diagnosis of what needs in an RV.
Want more? For 120V things a non-contact voltage detector is nice. Cost less than 10$ and you can't get hurt. Just hold it near the wire.
If you think you want more, learn more first. Then we can help you spend a lot more money. A lot more money.
What is with this guy?
Prior becoming a licensed ships engineer, I sailed as electrician. After I retired, I set up a company that did a lot of electrical work on boats. I did a lot of trouble shooting at that.
Behind me is a full Fluke case that is insured for 800$. In the drawer next to me is one of the cheapo Mutli from Harbor freight. It all has its place.
Matt
