Multimeter recommendation?

Thermoguy wrote:
Wow - hate to hear the comments, get the cheapest one you can afford. Remember, the only thing between you and the current you are measuring is the meter. If you buy cheap, you get cheap, which may cost you in the end. Also, it's like a calculator. If 1+1=3 then 4 then 6 then 2, is it reliable? No!!

Get a good meter, spend a few extra bucks. I like the ones that automatically detect AC or DC voltage, same setting, auto ranging. Just put it on voltage and you are good to go. I have both a clamp and DMM, but they both measure the same things, the clamp is just easier for clamping to a wire, like a battery cable.

Make sure it is rated to CAT IV 600 V minimum - this is to protect you from shock. If you plan to use it around the house also you might be measuring 120V AC to 240V AC.

As many have mentioned, Fluke is the gold standard and they are priced accordingly, but Amprobe (Fluke's cheap brand) FLIR, Klein, Ideal all are good quality manufacturers. They are all built in the same factories, but QC is different depending on who's name is on them. Stick to a manufacturer of electrical tools and you won't go wrong.

A non contact voltage tester is also good around 120v - not DC. I use it all the time around the house to make sure the power is off before changing a light fixture, switch, etc. A decent one is $20 or so, you can go cheap, but are you sure it works? I guess you can touch the wire and check.

I'd say CatII or CatIII is more than adequate. CatIV stuff get's expensive. CatIII covers main distribution panels, CatII wall outlets. It isn't just for shock protection, also make sure it doesn't blow up in your face or catch fire if you accidentally short across a battery bank in current mode and try to stuff 500A in the 1A range.



CAT III
Distribution-level mains (usually permanently connected).
Equipment at this level is typically in a fixed industrial
location.
CAT II
Local-level mains (wall sockets). Equipment at this level
includes appliances, portable tools, and similar products.
Equipment is usually cord-connected.
CAT I
Secondary (signal level) or battery operated circuits

Fluke has a really nice unit with detachable current head so you can get it around a cable in a tight place when measuring current.

Also if you happen to have a Klein tool non contact voltage tester around the house, PLEASE check Klein tool website for a recall on many of those units. I have two going back under the recall. Apparently they can indicate no power when power is present.