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Multimeter recommendation?

Kansas_couple
Explorer
Explorer
I'm looking to buy a multimeter, as my rig's refrigerator doesn't work on electric but still works on gas. There is power to its outlet (of course, that would be too easy of a fix..) and I know my next steps will involve going to the circuit board. I'm looking at the Klein Tools multimeters they sell at Home Depot. Noticed the CL 390 can measure DC amperage. Would this be something to have, or is measuring DC current not that important? If not, then I'd go with one of the less-expensive models. I'm open to thoughts and input. Thanks!
52 REPLIES 52

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
And the cycle repeats it's self. Buy **** and when it doesn't work buy another. The way I see it instead of buying two or more ***** buy one good one and be done with it. But hey we need to keep China booming.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Kansas_couple
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all! Thanks for the many responses and useful tips (such as creating a light bulb tester). I think I will just go with an inexpensive HF unit, knowing I can always buy a higher quality meter should the need arise.

WinMinnie--not exactly sure where I will start with the circuit board, I will go back to the YouTube video for guidance.

doctorscience
Explorer
Explorer
Kansas couple wrote:
I'm looking to buy a multimeter, as my rig's refrigerator doesn't work on electric but still works on gas. There is power to its outlet (of course, that would be too easy of a fix..) and I know my next steps will involve going to the circuit board. I'm looking at the Klein Tools multimeters they sell at Home Depot. Noticed the CL 390 can measure DC amperage. Would this be something to have, or is measuring DC current not that important? If not, then I'd go with one of the less-expensive models. I'm open to thoughts and input. Thanks!


I bought the Klein CL390 a few months ago to deal with many electrical issues in the class C I recently purchased. I also needed to fully check the draw of every item in the rig so I could manage long term winter RV use in Canada with only two 6 volt batteries. The CL390 is excellent. I've used it to find parasitic loads, sort out converter issues, issues with my inverter/charger, and so much more. Two thumbs up!

WinMinnie02
Explorer
Explorer
OP do you know what you are looking for to determine why your refrigerator is not working on electric? Are you trying to determine if it is the fuses? Could it be the Thermistor? Klein tools 600v for $55 is fine from Home Depot, used it last few years home, auto, and RV.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have a 77 Fluke dates to the 80's. Made in the USA.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Tom_M,

That is a very sad picture.

I have two 77s one is not a series anything because they hadn't even started that when I got it. It is old and has had to have the switch patched, but I still love it.

The 77 series 2 is the one I carry in the coach.

I also have a 20yo 87 and a Bell probe that live in a case and only goes out on paying jobs.

Oh yeah, and a collection of throw-away meters so I have something I don't worry about getting damaged.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
Here's my Fluke 77 that I have had for decades. An incandescent lamp tipped onto it and after about 30 minutes this was the result:
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

OkieGene
Explorer
Explorer
Well how about that? I kept thinking I had a Fluke. I kept digging around in all the toolboxes in my garage.

Finally found it. It's a Fluke model 77, series 2.

I got it used, due to a screwy situation, back in 1991-ish. So this old girl is 30 years old or a few more years older.

Off to get an Eveready Energizer 9 volt Lithium battery and will fire this old girl up and see what happens.
.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
ktmrfs wrote:
CA Traveler wrote:
Good points above. Most RVs should not be probing a 120V or 240V due to the potential danger. Especially a pedestal while holding the metal cover open with one hand or standing in a damp area due to a nearby faucet or drain.


well, since there are lots of 120V circuits in an RV, and based on issues that have come up from posts, 120V power issues are common enough to need troubleshooting at times, brush up on best practices for safety when working on line circuits.

And make sure that ANY test device you use on such circuits carries at least a CATII 300V rating, CATIII 600V is better.

That will provide some safety in case of a mistake.
Plugging the RV into a 20A GFCI circuit can provide some additional protection when looking for a problem. I've never seen a 30A or 50A GFCI plug in a CG but they probably exist.

Also, I've recommended numerous times to plug into a 20A GFCI plug and turn various appliances on/off to check for a ground fault condition. Do this at least once if not on some periodic basis.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
We use flukes at work that require annual calibration as well. They are returned from cal lab with an official cal report documenting measurements recorded prior to any adjustments. In the 33 years I have reviewed the fluke cal data they have never been out of cal on voltage. Some of these meters are 15 years old or older. Amperage is a different story. Amps are sometimes a little off in the lower ranges and require adjusting.

About 6 years ago we bought 4 EXTECHs for some reason. I guess part of a cost savings plan. All 4 have came back from cal lab spot on on all measurements on all functions for the past 5 years.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
CA Traveler wrote:
Good points above. Most RVs should not be probing a 120V or 240V due to the potential danger. Especially a pedestal while holding the metal cover open with one hand or standing in a damp area due to a nearby faucet or drain.


well, since there are lots of 120V circuits in an RV, and based on issues that have come up from posts, 120V power issues are common enough to need troubleshooting at times, brush up on best practices for safety when working on line circuits.

And make sure that ANY test device you use on such circuits carries at least a CATII 300V rating, CATIII 600V is better.

That will provide some safety in case of a mistake.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Good points above. Most RVs should not be probing a 120V or 240V due to the potential danger. Especially a pedestal while holding the metal cover open with one hand or standing in a damp area due to a nearby faucet or drain.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Thermoguy
Explorer II
Explorer II
There are some good points made on this thread - but some that need definite clarification and correction.

Fluke is no longer made in America. I think they switched to assembled in America a few years back now I believe it is designed in America. Not saying they are not the gold standard, which they are. They are the most reliable and safest, but you pay for that - but is an extra $50-$100 really that much more?

Next, your value brands like Craftsman and Radio Shack, aren't really comparable to HF. They were made (designed by) Extech, which is considered a mid level brand. So, much higher than the Amazon or HF cheap knock off made in some factory for as cheap as they can.

Now, why does this matter - they points that are the most important on this thread. They only thing between you and what you are measuring is the meter and the leads you are using. If you use something made by a company that is just trying to make the cheapest thing out there, are you really safe? Now, if you are only reading DC batteries, and the DC in your trailer, then I guess safety is not a thing. Take 2 wires connected to a light bulb and you are just as safe. But, you are you measuring 120V - 240V household, or a 30-50 amp pedestal, do you want to rely on the cheapest thing made, or do you want to spend an extra $50-$100 to make sure you don't get shocked or worse. Your probably only buying 1 so just spend a little more for an average or better meter.

Next, accuracy and reliability. I know when I measure my batteries, I want to know what they read. Is my battery 12.7v or 12.1v. Do I measure, come back 2 minutes later and its changed by 1 volt? I'm sure there are other examples where accuracy matters. But, if you don't care about a good reading, why even buy a meter? There was an entire thread on tire pressure gauges. This is different, because a gauge is usually off but consistent. A meter that is off can be high today and low tomorrow. It can be off by tenths or by an entire point. It will be inconsistent for every reading. What do you consider is acceptable and do you trust the manufacturer that designed it and had it made in that factory in China. Is it made in China or Taiwan?

I'm not advocating for Fluke or any specific brand, just saying be careful. I think the OP purchased Klein, which is a great middle of the road brand. As I said before, if they make electrical test tools, this is much better than a company that is trying to sell the cheapest thing they can have made.

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
Gdetrailer wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
MFL wrote:
JMO...there are several definitions of cost, cheap throw away, lower priced, middle priced, and expensive. I usually try to buy the best product (expensive), with the features I need, for the lowest price.

Jerry


YEP and I bet most of your tools are still in service from years past.

I have a Fluke that is US Made. I have no idea how to use many of it's functions but hey they are there if needed. Same model the Commercial Electricians used on my jobs years ago.




I have used Flukes at work, they are no better than any other meter (even cheap HF) if you have not or never had them calibrated to a known standard. At work, all devices like meters, torque wrenches and such were required by the QA department to be tested and calibrated every yr.

Not all meters can be calibrated or will be able to hold a calibration to specs, that is where Fluke comes in and are able to be calibrated and do a good job holding that calibration.

But for HOME or even general electrician or mechanic use, a Fluke is not needed at all. You are not manufacturing to tight tolerances and general electrical work does not need pin point accuracy. Now if you were trying to troubleshoot an amplifier circuit where .1V can mean difference of working or not, than perhaps a Fluke or a bit better quality than HF would be a better choice.

For RV and auto use calibration to a known standard is not needed and pretty much any cheap meter that can give a consistent reading will suffice.

I have a nice 35yr old RadioShack auto range DVM which works fine and a bunch of cheapo give away HF DVMs laying around.. Those cheap HF DVMs are plenty accurate for 12V and 120V/240V work and I have not noticed any of those being inaccurate with each other (they all agree with each other).

$5-$6 HF meters are fine for the use the OP will be using it for.


One big advantage of the fluke 73 or similar or the Tek TX series of DMM's is that they extremely robust. I've dropped the TX3 from 25ft onto concrete, several times, no damage. Flukes I have are similar.

And they are really hard to damage with an incorrect hookup. Hook the MA range up across a 12V trailer battery and all that the 300+A short circuit current will do is a popped fuse, unlike some others that even a fuse won't protect.

And the leads are designed for some UL spec's that makes it highly unlikely to ever expose you to line voltage.
Both are tested and calibrated in production with NIST traceable equipment, so out of the box you know they are well calibrated, but as mentioned for precision work they need periodic test. But I'd say the likely hold cal better than el chepo's.

I could go on more, as I was involved in the design of some of these meters, they are industrial grade, targeted at industrial users. Kinda like snap on vs. harbor freight. Each serves a specific market well.

I will say they are more accurate than what the vast majority of users for RV or home applications will ever need. Products from Klein tools and similar are more than accurate enough, robust enough and much lower cost.

so, for an occasional user that only needs a few functions for qualitative measurements, the Fluke and old Tek TX meters are probably overkill, depends on what is important to you.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!