Multimeter recommendation?

[Kansas_couple]

I'm looking to buy a multimeter, as my rig's refrigerator doesn't work on electric but still works on gas. There is power to its outlet (of course, that would be too easy of a fix..) and I know my next steps will involve going to the circuit board. I'm looking at the Klein Tools multimeters they sell at Home Depot. Noticed the CL 390 can measure DC amperage. Would this be something to have, or is measuring DC current not that important? If not, then I'd go with one of the less-expensive models. I'm open to thoughts and input. Thanks!

[Gdetrailer]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

MFL wrote:
JMO...there are several definitions of cost, cheap throw away, lower priced, middle priced, and expensive. I usually try to buy the best product (expensive), with the features I need, for the lowest price.

Jerry

YEP and I bet most of your tools are still in service from years past.

I have a Fluke that is US Made. I have no idea how to use many of it's functions but hey they are there if needed. Same model the Commercial Electricians used on my jobs years ago.

I have used Flukes at work, they are no better than any other meter (even cheap HF) if you have not or never had them calibrated to a known standard. At work, all devices like meters, torque wrenches and such were required by the QA department to be tested and calibrated every yr.

Not all meters can be calibrated or will be able to hold a calibration to specs, that is where Fluke comes in and are able to be calibrated and do a good job holding that calibration.

But for HOME or even general electrician or mechanic use, a Fluke is not needed at all. You are not manufacturing to tight tolerances and general electrical work does not need pin point accuracy. Now if you were trying to troubleshoot an amplifier circuit where .1V can mean difference of working or not, than perhaps a Fluke or a bit better quality than HF would be a better choice.

For RV and auto use calibration to a known standard is not needed and pretty much any cheap meter that can give a consistent reading will suffice.

I have a nice 35yr old RadioShack auto range DVM which works fine and a bunch of cheapo give away HF DVMs laying around.. Those cheap HF DVMs are plenty accurate for 12V and 120V/240V work and I have not noticed any of those being inaccurate with each other (they all agree with each other).

$5-$6 HF meters are fine for the use the OP will be using it for.

[Cummins12V98]

MFL wrote:
JMO...there are several definitions of cost, cheap throw away, lower priced, middle priced, and expensive. I usually try to buy the best product (expensive), with the features I need, for the lowest price.

Jerry

YEP and I bet most of your tools are still in service from years past.

I have a Fluke that is US Made. I have no idea how to use many of it's functions but hey they are there if needed. Same model the Commercial Electricians used on my jobs years ago.

[Gjac]

I guess everyone looks at things differently. I use a multimeter all the time working on a 25 year old MH. Maybe I am not as careful as some but one I ruined while checking the fuel pump on my genset with gas. Another got left out in the rain. If these were $150 Flukes I would be very upset but they were free from HF. They do everything I need them to do and they have an adjustment inside that you can adjust the voltage with a pot to match a voltage setting with a good meter. The original one I got from HF is 17 years old and I added better leads from Radio Shack and still works fine.

[MFL]

JMO...there are several definitions of cost, cheap throw away, lower priced, middle priced, and expensive. I usually try to buy the best product (expensive), with the features I need, for the lowest price.

Jerry

[StirCrazy]

fj12ryder wrote:
$50 is cheap? We definitely have different definitions. 🙂

that same one is probably 150 up here. I thiught it was a good deal, and ya I do concider 50 cheep for a quality tool.

[JimK-NY]

I RV camped full time for a couple of years and have spent hundreds of nights out since then. Never once have I needed a multimeter. Even at the house, a 60 year old, low cost multimeter is all I have ever needed. At one time I had several canvas bags with tools and supplies. I have cut that way back to just a handful of basic tools. I could do 90% of the work I have needed over the years with just a multitool.

[C_Schomer]

Here it is on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL390-Electronic-Resistance/dp/B08DTDCG7T/ref=asc_df_B08DTDCG7T?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920843356084&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520392045748&psc=1
That's dirt cheap for everything it does but I bet it's a throwaway meter if it ever goes out of cal. I have an old UEI throwaway but it's nice to have the DC clamp sometimes. Craig

[Boon_Docker]

I have the UT204A, it is an excellent meter. The UT210E is comparable to the UT204A.

[OkieGene]

theoldwizard1 wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:

For a meter, decent middle of the road clamp meter, Uni-T UT210E.

Thanks! Just ordered one.

[fj12ryder]

Oh my, that will certainly take your breath away. 🙂

[Thermoguy]

It is compared to this - but with this one you can measure your bearing temps...

High Quality Meter

[fj12ryder]

$50 is cheap? We definitely have different definitions. 🙂

[StirCrazy]

here is a cheep option that covers pretty much everything you would ever need in a rv. multimeter

[2112]

The CL390 is a nice middle of the road meter with some nice features. I like the reverse contrast display, NCV tester and probe holder. Get something with a backlight if you don't get the reverse contrast.

A DC clamp meter can be handy on the camper to measure battery charge current, slideout or furnace current draw, or if you get into solar. You can use it around the house to troubleshoot our check the health of your HVAC. It's nice to have but you probably won't use it much.

I've been happy with EXTECH but Klein is probably a step up. I carry a small EXTECH in the camper and use a Fieldpiece around the house.

[wa8yxm]

I have made my own test lights.
You get an automotive lamp socket with leads (some have one lead and ground through the case you want one with LEADS a "Blade" type socket is good)
Get the matching lamp
Solder an extension lead on one side this is the probe lead (how to make probe in a bit)
The other lead gets the clip

To make the probe
A short (Say 8") length of wood dowell

A nail say a 10 penny.
Solder the wire to the nail about half way down.
Drive the nail into the dowel
Grind the head off the nail and sharpen to a point

Optional cover the dowel with HEAT SHRINK tubing holding the wire to the side of the dowel and shrink it down.

I used a license plate lamp.