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My bearing failure story

solismaris
Explorer
Explorer
This weekend I had a bearing failure on my trailer. I had no idea until somebody flagged me down with frantic hand gestures. I knew something was wrong but didn't know what. I looked in my mirrors but didn't see anything unusual. Fortunately there was an exit just ahead so I slowed down and got off, into a parking lot.

When I got out to look I immediately saw the problem. One wheel was smoking, spattered with grease, and the wheel was crooked on the spindle. But it was still there, and not on fire! It took 5 hours but I finally found somebody to come and repair it (2 hours to find somebody and 3 hours for them to repair it). They were able to save the spindle, and they successfully replaced the bearings (took them 3 trips to the parts store to get it right!). They weren't able to save the brake; it was pretty much destroyed on that wheel, but at least I was able to get where I needed to go.

For those who've experienced this before, how close do you think I was to something more catastrophic, such as the wheel falling off or the trailer catching on fire?

And how could I have discovered this earlier? I do make a habit of checking the hubs but had only gone 2 hours, hadn't stopped yet, and there was no excess heat detected on my previous trip a month earlier.

Given the difficulty of finding a mobile repair service, and the troubles they had in finding the right parts, I wondered if I could carry spares and do it myself if it happens again? But seing the troubles they had in getting the badly mangled and heat-welded parts off, I believe it would have been beyond my ability. Even if I carried an extra hub already packed with a seal it wouldn't have helped me, as it took them over an hour just to remove damaged parts off the old spindle.
David Kojen
61 REPLIES 61

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
Gulfcoast wrote:
Every time I make a post on this forum, I get jumped on. But, I will say this...

Both Timken and SKF have plants in China, apparently.

"Currently, SKF China has 18 manufacturing sites in China (including PEER), with products ranging from various types of bearings, seals, lubricants and mechatronic products, etc. "

http://www.skf.com/cn/en/our-company/SKF-in-china/Our-Factories/index.html



Timken: http://www.timken.com/en-us/about/Pages/Locations.aspx


Where the bearings are shipped to, I don't know... I guess you would have to open a package to see where it is made.


Just a note of interest:
Cessna placed KOYO bearing in all their single engine aircraft for most of their production. that is what was legal to run, but Timken replacements were not authorized.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.

Gulfcoast
Explorer
Explorer
Every time I make a post on this forum, I get jumped on. But, I will say this...

Both Timken and SKF have plants in China, apparently.

"Currently, SKF China has 18 manufacturing sites in China (including PEER), with products ranging from various types of bearings, seals, lubricants and mechatronic products, etc. "

http://www.skf.com/cn/en/our-company/SKF-in-china/Our-Factories/index.html



Timken: http://www.timken.com/en-us/about/Pages/Locations.aspx


Where the bearings are shipped to, I don't know... I guess you would have to open a package to see where it is made.
RV'ing since 1960
Dodge Cummins Diesel
Mega Cab
Jayco Travel Trailer

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
An entire hub ready to go i the better idea. imo
We had a heavy boat two axle trailer, that got immersed quite a bit. I was fanatical about greasing them. I checked them every time I stopped when traveling distances. They used cheap Chinese bearings, which in the eighties and nineties much worse than today. Mine became loose from the destruction of the bearings. When I got hom I took old bearings and got the correct size in Timken, then American made. Biggest problem not having a press was getting seals out with screwdriver, chisel, punch etc and hammer and driving the bearing races out with large socket and hammer. That took some doing. I put Lyman reloading cartridge case grease, on the new races and drove them in carefully and much easier than taking the old ones out.
It never occurred to me to carry a complete spare assembly. Some places they go out you might be a while, like above Thunder Bay before help gets there. I might have gotten away with no wheel on that axle but I drove slow and filled the hub every little bit, til we got home. It was messed up alread so no more real damage unless it was to seize.

liborko
Explorer
Explorer
I went through the same experience with bearings on boat trailer. First left side, next year right side. The hub/drum had 6 bolts. These hubs/drums are available with smaller or larger outer bearing. The original had smaller bearing, replaced with hub/drum with larger bearings. Took me several years to finally solve the problem:

-converted to disk brakes. Disk brake hubs come with large bearings. With disk brakes you can observe hub seals without removing drums.
-better braking
-you can service brakes without removing drums&bearings
-install bearing Buddies. Fill properly with synthetic grease and you don't have to worry about repacking bearings annually
-use SKF or Timken bearings. The Chinese bearing were falling apart after as little as 500km even with synthetic grease.
-installed spindle sleeves(not cheap). Only with magnifying glass I was able to see corrosion damage on spindles in an area where hub seal contacts spindle.

Good quality stainless steel bearing buddies have a blue plastic ring indicator which starts moving when hub is full of grease. If it moves back in, add grease. Keep adding until all air in hub is replaced with grease and plastic indicator stick out about 1/8". When hub heats up after long drive, blue ring will stick out more and will move back in after cooling.

Adjust bearings properly:
-tighten adjusting nut to 50ftlb while rotating wheel by hand
-loosen adjusting nut
-hand tighten the nut
-insert cotter pin or loosen the nut to line up with nearest cotter pin hole

There is no justifiable reason for repacking trailer bearings every season. You don't do it on a car or truck. If done properly as described, there should be no reason to do it every year.

There was a good article in recent issue of Trailer Life magazine about disc brake conversion. I am elated that these kits are finally available and I think everybody who has any trailer with brakes should consider it.

dclark1946
Explorer
Explorer
spadoctor wrote:
Some vehicles have sealed bearing but not most. I have towed well over 250000 miles and never replaced a trailer bearing. Proper amount of grease...installed correctly and not overloaded is the key not where its made....if that were the case every car and truck manufacturer would have wheels flying off.


Where bearings are made can make a difference. Variation in quality in bearings made off shore are much more than domestic bearings. When Chinese auto bearings first started being available I installed a set in a 78 Cutlass and within a few weeks I started hearing ugly noise caused by bearing failure. I replaced them with Timken US bearings in exactly the same manner as I did the failed bearings and as I had before on other vehicles and had no more issues. Within a few months after that auto parts stores started displaying signs in their windows saying they now carried domestic bearings.

You can get good bearings and other parts from China but you can also get really poor quality parts due to poor quality control.

Dick
Dick & Karen
Richardson,TX
2017 KZ Spree 263RKS
09 F250 V10

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
I wonder if Mex knows where Timkens are made?

dave17352
Explorer
Explorer
I had a front wheel bearing go out on my 1983 dodge pickup. While coming down out of mountains in Arizona.
NOW 2017 Leprechaun 260ds
2005 Forrest River Cardinal 29rkle FW
1998 Lance 980 11'3" TC
2017 CHEVY 3500 SRW 6.0
B@W turnover ball @ companion Hitch
Honda eu3000 generator mounted on cargo rack
Crestliner 1850 Fish Ski boat mostly fishing now!

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
CHINA BEARNGS? Are you nuts?

When I checked hundreds of China bearings - A6000XX to 193650 50DN bearings, including 6203, 6303, 6305, + 2RS, they failed utterly to meet dimensional tolerances. .0002" may sound like a joke, but when something gets destroyed worth 500-times the cost of the bearing, suddenly the laughter fails.

Same with 2RS bearings of the 90's with USSR stamped into the seal. Dimensional tolerance and lube were beyond nightmare quality.

Timken and SKF make great wheel bearings. For smaller sealed ball bearings, NTN, LUA grade are my one and only choice.

After destroying a three thousand dollar DANA 70 axle with so-called miracle AMZOIL grease, thirty five years ago, that learned me. All grease is not the same and 99% of what I run across now is utter sludge. Try CHEVRON RED GREASE or LUBRICATION ENGINEERS ALMAGARD 3752 on spotless bearings, correctly pre-loaded and learn premature bearing failures are overwhelmingly a result of using CRISCO grade lubricants. On Dana axles it is vital to insure lube level in the differential is adequate to slip down axle tubes and full bearing hub cavities. A leaking rear wheel "drive" bearing can lead to catastrophe. For oil lubed bearings, Lubrication Engineers, Amasol 607 is unbeatable. It actually stops or greatly reduces gear oil leakage and seepage.

I'll let other folks fight wheel bearings. I've got better things to do ๐Ÿ™‚

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
RAS43 wrote:
Trailers are heavier then (sic) cars but the bearings should be matched to the weight so I believe they should last as long.
They should, but don't. I'm sure RV mfrs put in the best bearings they can find. ๐Ÿ™‚
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
2oldman wrote:
I have never had a car bearing failure. A trailer (ok, my trailer) is much heavier than any car I've ever owned, hence I draw the conclusion that a trailer is different because of its weight.

I can't wait to see the laughing head-scratching icon in the reply to this.




Not necessarily..

My 2013 F250 4x2 with 6.2 IS RATED 4,200 lbs (GAWR) ON THE FRONT AXLE.

A F350 4x2 will have a front axle GAWR a bit higher and add in a Diesel and that front axle is going to take a beating..

I am not sure what you think big rig tractors use for front wheel bearings.. As a hint, big rig tractors are NOT front wheel drive..

Folks that IS the same as a trailer if you really think about it..

A dual axle trailer rated for 7K-8K will typically have TWO axles rated at 3,500 lbs GAWR..

In a nutshell a VEHICLE axle can take as much if not more weight (or abuse) than a trailer axle.. AND non drive axles on a vehicle USE THE SAME ROLLER BEARING SYSTEM.

RAS43
Explorer III
Explorer III
No scratching head from me, just a comment. Trailers are heavier then cars but the bearings should be matched to the weight so I believe they should last as long. I have never had a failure in 40+ years of pulling trailers, including boats. Proper maintenance is the key as others have stated.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have never had a car bearing failure. A trailer (ok, my trailer) is much heavier than any car I've ever owned, hence I draw the conclusion that a trailer is different because of its weight.

I can't wait to see the laughing head-scratching icon in the reply to this.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
mkirsch wrote:
One big difference with wheel bearings on a vehicle is that you can FEEL and HEAR them failing. You just have to be observant enough to realize that growling noise is a problem, and get it fixed.

As for "catastrophic failure," that means that bearings do not suddenly fail without warning. When they are allowed to fail, it's sure "catastrophic" but there are plenty of warning signs ahead of time.


Actually, my one 4x2 truck they DID fail WITHOUT WARNING, NO NOISE, NO GROWLING, NO CHANGE TO FEELING (VIBRATION).. All I felt was a tug on the steering wheel TOWARDS the side that FAILED.

Stopped immediately on the side of the road and could smell burning grease on the side that failed (hub cap was on the wheel).

Got back in and gently drove on the shoulder barely even registering any speed 1/4 mile to a Sam's club parking lot. Jacked up the offending side and found LOTS of play with the bearings.

I was driving and heard no noise so your theory is invalid.

Lack of grease IS the main culprit to failure..

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
midnightsadie wrote:
GDETRAILER, car bearings are a different story,this guy and the rest of us are talking trailer,


Car bearings ARE THE SAME THING AND IDEA, PERIOD.

Car rear bearings (rear on front wheel drive, front on rear wheel drive and 4x2 trucks) ARE ONE IN THE SAME. They are the same "tapered" roller bearings and use GREASE.

Per Dexter axle manual.. HERE

"Dexterโ€™s standard wheel bearing configuration consists of
opposed tapered roller bearing cones and cups, fitted inside
of a precision machined cast hub.
This method of using
tapered roller bearings requires that a minimal amount of
axial end play be provided at assembly. This end play is
essential to the longevity of the bearings service life. This
design is typically lubricated with grease, packed into the
bearings. Oil lubrication is another method which is available
in some of the larger axle capacities."


How many people that have front wheel drive vehicles actually ever check their rear axle bearings for heat?

How many people actually pull, inspect and repack front wheel drive rear axle bearings?..

None to the first question and nearly zero to none on the second question.

There is nothing different when comparing 4x2 front axle bearings and front wheel drive rear axle bearings to a trailer bearing when it comes to inspecting and repacking the bearing.

Trailer axle manufacturers DO recommend 12K miles of every two years for removing, inspecting and repacking the bearings..

Done right you will not have a bearing failure.

Done incorrectly or never done and you WILL eventually have a failure.

As I mentioned above, PROPER packing the bearing with grease IS essential. Most mechanics (and a few DIYers) now days do not understand how to properly pack a bearing.

THAT is the cause of most failures, in fact the garage I used that I had failures on my vehicle WERE FACTORY CERTIFIED ASE MECHANICS..

PER DEXTER MANUAL here is how they describe how to properly maintain the bearings..

"Along with bearing adjustment, proper lubrication is essential to
the proper function and reliability of your trailer axle. Bearings
should be lubricated every 12 months or 12,000 miles.
The
method to repack bearing cones is as follows:

1.
Place a quantity of grease into the palm of your hand.

2.
Press a section of the widest
end of the bearing into the
outer edge of the grease pile
closest to the thumb forcing
grease into the interior of the
bearing.

3.
Repeat this while rotating the
bearing from roller to roller.

4.
Continue this process until
you have the entire bearing
completely filled with grease.

5.
Before reinstalling, apply a light coat of grease on the
bearing cup"


As you can tell I have not made up anything..

It is pretty much as I described..

As far as bearing adjustment here is what Dexter has to say..

"Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement
If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required,
the following adjustment procedure must be followed.
For standard grease or oil axles using cotter pin:

1.
After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut
back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the
previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly
slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately
50Ft. Lbs.(12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)

2.
Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not
rotate the hub.

3.
Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4.
Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation
lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.

5.
Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.

6.
Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the
cotter pin."


With the exception of the actual torque spec and #6 instruction for looseness of the nut the steps that Dexter lists ARE the very same steps you do for ANY 4x2 vehicle which has tapered roller bearings..

Those steps are what my Dad SHOWED me nearly 35 years ago on my first CAR which by the way had drum brakes on the front axle..

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
One big difference with wheel bearings on a vehicle is that you can FEEL and HEAR them failing. You just have to be observant enough to realize that growling noise is a problem, and get it fixed.

As for "catastrophic failure," that means that bearings do not suddenly fail without warning. When they are allowed to fail, it's sure "catastrophic" but there are plenty of warning signs ahead of time.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.