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Need help selecting generator

dragr1
Explorer
Explorer
I am looking at purchasing a generator for power outage emergencies. Yes these are rare occasions, but since I switched from a motorhome to a travel trailer I miss having the convenience of just staying in the camper if the power is out.

I would like for the generator to be able to run my camper (jayco 33bhts) which has one 15k but a/c and all the normal stuff-it has 30amp service. I would also like to plug in 2 additional house refrigerators. I can of course run the RV fridge on propane if the load is too much.

It would be nice to have something relatively quiet, but since I don't plan on ever using this at a campground it's not a priority. We always camp with hookups.

I've been looking at units in the 7,000 to 10,000 watt range. Some have rv plugs directly on the unit and others do not-I assume there is an adapter if they do not?

These are some of the units I have looked at:

http://www.sears.com/duromax-durostar-10000w-portable-gas-electric-start-generator/p-SPM7298198902?p...

http://www.planetgenerators.com/powermate-pm0497000-04-review/

http://www.planetgenerators.com/duromax-xp10000e-review/

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Champion-Power-Equipment-7-500-9-500-Watt-Electric-Start-Gasoline-Powered...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/PowerStroke-6800-Watt-Generator-Honda-GX390-Electric-Start-PS907000A/2044...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200614588_200614588

Thanks for any help or advice!
2014 Ram 3500 CC Longbed 4x4, G56, tow rig
2013 Jayco 33BHTS Travel Trailer
2014 Toyota Tacoma CC TRD 4x4, work rig
23 REPLIES 23

Rowdy3803
Explorer
Explorer
I just purchased a generac 8500 very nice buy it's a little loud. Wanted something to run my we'll. if you take your voltage and are able to get you amp draw that will tell you your wattage . (Amps x voltage) also if it has a motor you want to check the amp draw on start up. My we'll runs around 9 amps but on start up it jumps to 26 amps.

dragr1
Explorer
Explorer
Starting to take a look at the Generac's. Anyone have any info on them?
2014 Ram 3500 CC Longbed 4x4, G56, tow rig
2013 Jayco 33BHTS Travel Trailer
2014 Toyota Tacoma CC TRD 4x4, work rig

dragr1
Explorer
Explorer
I believe that I am definitely going with a Honda engine powered generator. Not one of the expensive ultra quiet ones though, the ones I have been looking at are $1500 and under. Mainly looking at these three right now:

Powerstroke Honda

Blackmax Honda

Powermate Honda
2014 Ram 3500 CC Longbed 4x4, G56, tow rig
2013 Jayco 33BHTS Travel Trailer
2014 Toyota Tacoma CC TRD 4x4, work rig

kaz442
Explorer
Explorer
Don't care what size you get but if your going with a gasoline powered unit go with a Honda. I have a 20+ year old Honda gen and it starts first pull every time. Most important thing is to store it completely empty of fuel. Mine will sit dormant for a year or two but when needed add fuel and its good to go. I had cheap Chinese gens at work and never failed when we needed them at least one would have a problem. Owner too cheap to buy the good stuff.

JKaz
1989 26' Jayco class C E350 460cu

dragr1
Explorer
Explorer
greenrvgreen wrote:
Since the OP did not mention cost concerns and did mention "quiet", I would agree with the recommendations for the very large Honda or Yamaha. Be aware these are big, heavy and costly, and "quiet" is a relative term.

My "suggestion" would be that the OP catagorize his power needs for the RV versus a power outage at the home. With this in mind I think two generators would actually serve better. For example, a 3k inverter gennie for the RV, and a Champion 3500 for home backup. This would give greater reliability for home backup and both gennies would stream a combined 5000-6000 watts.

Added benefits are easier portability, more flexibility in setup, and reliability through redundancy. I have a Powerhouse 2700 inverter gennie that goes with the TT, and a Champion 3500 that stays at the house faithfully awaiting the next call for home backup.


That is really a great idea and one that I can't believe that I didn't think of, thanks!
2014 Ram 3500 CC Longbed 4x4, G56, tow rig
2013 Jayco 33BHTS Travel Trailer
2014 Toyota Tacoma CC TRD 4x4, work rig

dragr1
Explorer
Explorer
Dusty R wrote:
Why not get your home set up for a generator using a transfer switch, then add a receiptical to your home to plug the rv into?

Dusty


Definitely an option and I already have a 30 amp plug on the house to plug up the camper.
2014 Ram 3500 CC Longbed 4x4, G56, tow rig
2013 Jayco 33BHTS Travel Trailer
2014 Toyota Tacoma CC TRD 4x4, work rig

dragr1
Explorer
Explorer
mrekim wrote:
Do you expect to be able to purchase and/or draw from stored gasoline during an outage?


You may want to decide how much you value the option to run on Propane/Natural Gas - especially if you already use one of these fuels at the house.


This would be valuable during a large regional outage where gas stations can't pump and those with generators can't get fuel. This happened to us during hurricanes Sandy, and Irene.


I like the option to run on propane, a dual fuel unit would be perfect. I have quite a few propane tanks since I have a gas grill, camper, and an offroad truck that runs on forklift tanks. Plus propane can be stored for long periods without going bad. It can also be filled when there is no power.
2014 Ram 3500 CC Longbed 4x4, G56, tow rig
2013 Jayco 33BHTS Travel Trailer
2014 Toyota Tacoma CC TRD 4x4, work rig

Rolling_Condo
Explorer II
Explorer II
IMHO. The best bang for your buck would be 2 of the Champion 3500w units. I base this on the fact that you stated this is for emergency use, not that you would depend on one for typical camping use. Having 2 gives you more options about placing them when they would be in use. You wouldn't have to stretch out long extension cords to reach your trailer and the appliances in the house.
Should you want to quiet them down, Supergen makes an enclosure specifically for them Tent.
'90 GMC R2500 7.4L w/ Gear Vendor OD
'90 Avion 34V
Cummins Onan P4300ie
Pro Pride 3P
Prodigy

mrekim
Explorer
Explorer
Do you expect to be able to purchase and/or draw from stored gasoline during an outage?


You may want to decide how much you value the option to run on Propane/Natural Gas - especially if you already use one of these fuels at the house.


This would be valuable during a large regional outage where gas stations can't pump and those with generators can't get fuel. This happened to us during hurricanes Sandy, and Irene.

JiminDenver
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you can afford the bigger inverter models, they would be quieter and use less gas. That said the Champion would do the job well for you.

We have a older Champion 3500/4000 that is used both for the trailer and as home back up. We had a Coleman 2500 but it was so loud that I ran it once and sold it. The 3500/4000 is actually quiet in comparison. We usually run a cord to the neighbors and we split the gas bill during a outage.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

greenrvgreen
Explorer
Explorer
Since the OP did not mention cost concerns and did mention "quiet", I would agree with the recommendations for the very large Honda or Yamaha. Be aware these are big, heavy and costly, and "quiet" is a relative term.

My "suggestion" would be that the OP catagorize his power needs for the RV versus a power outage at the home. With this in mind I think two generators would actually serve better. For example, a 3k inverter gennie for the RV, and a Champion 3500 for home backup. This would give greater reliability for home backup and both gennies would stream a combined 5000-6000 watts.

Added benefits are easier portability, more flexibility in setup, and reliability through redundancy. I have a Powerhouse 2700 inverter gennie that goes with the TT, and a Champion 3500 that stays at the house faithfully awaiting the next call for home backup.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I too will recommend the Honda or Yahama inverter units, a 3500 should be about the right size (Let's see 3500*0.8 = 2800 watts of continuous power bit more for motor starting).

These are quiet, SIP gasoline (Many of he HONDA's can be used with an extended run tank so you can run them a long long time if power fails)

In addition you might consider a pair of 2000's.. More power, when parallel hookups are used, and each unit is easier to wrangle.. .Kind of like why they use six volt pairs instead of 12's in many motor homes.. half the weight per box.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your A/C and 2 fridge's are roughly 3400W when all three are running. Less if the fridge's are newer. The A/C will demand close to 4500W at start up but if you turn it on first and leave it running (set Tstat to it's lowest setting) you are better off. Everything else?

Keep in mind:
The fridge's are off more than on
A little power management will go a long way
Extension cords will eat into your power allotment from voltage drop so use separate 10AWG cords for each fridge

You can get by with a 4500W open frame such as a Champ or B&S if you stay away from hair driers, toasters, microwave and electric coffee pots. Unplug the fridge's if you need to use any of these.

I have powered my house (fridge, a few lights, TV, gas furnace, 220V water well) with a Champion 3500.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
Why not get your home set up for a generator using a transfer switch, then add a receiptical to your home to plug the rv into?

Dusty