Forum Discussion
BFL13
Jun 16, 2022Explorer II
SFVdave wrote:
When I installed lithium batteries 18 months ago I also changed out my converter charger. I didn't want it constantly charging 14.4 volts. so I returned it and have been using my original PD converter charger and just hit the charge wizard to get it fully charged. With 300 watts of roof top solar and an MTTP controller, it stay fully charged shile camping. But I heard that PD was going to produce a 2 stage one that drops to 13.6 after fully charging the batteries. Wondered if they came out with it? Can't find it on their site if they did. they have changed the num,bers around with upgrades so I may have missed it.
"Compatible" for a converter is not just an LFP problem. EG Trojan wants 14.8v but many converters only do 14.4.
Above all, converter makers want to satisfy the majority who want automatic, don't have to think about it, equipment.
But all of a sudden with LFPs out, converter makers feel the need to be compatible with them. First they went to 14.6 instead of 14.4 (and said not to go over that with temp comp so turn off your temp comp--first problem with staying automatic--you have to do something!)
Then they had to allow for not staying at 14.6 for too long (where too long is not clearly defined--somewhere between 20 minutes and two weeks maybe.) Same as for battery boiling with FLA staying at 14.x So back to the 2-stage idea to drop to what they used to call "Normal"--13.6v. Why 13.6?
13.6 was chosen way back as "normal" even though it can lead to battery boiling if left on too long with FLAs. On shore power you need the converter to run the 12v things (but you can do that at 12.6 so why 13.6?) Why 12 things? Because you have a 12v battery for when not on shore power. FLAs need 13.x to stay charged. The converter has a loaded voltage below 13.6 at times depending on what is running, so 13.6 keeps it above 13 anyway.
But 13.6 has issues for long term on shore power with LFPs too (not battery boiling, but something else). So what to do? You can disconnect the LFP and just run on converter. (Except for the odd time your rig might need the battery to help the converter run the slide out)
So what is the point of getting a 2-stage PD that does 14.6 and 13.6 instead of your 3 stage PD that does 14.4, 13.6, and 13.2? You get 14.6 which could be required. But is it? Not clear you can't get to Full at 14.4 and balance the LFP (needs above 14.2 -how much above?)---Seems to be different stories on that?
The 13.6 you already have, and it could be wrong anyway.
Can you take care of your LFP properly with any "automatic" fire and forget converter? You can't look after AGMs or FLAs properly that way either. The converter is set to "sort of" look after things and your battery dies at some point regardless. Few cared because batteries didn't cost much and they got the automatic hands free choice.
LFPs cost a lot! So now you have to do things yourself if you want them to last and not go broke buying new batteries.
For that you can get the manually adjustable voltage PowerMax converter instead of the fixed voltages of the PD. Or if you hate manual and want automatic, win the Lotto and not care about cost. Easy! :)
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