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New trailer, new challenges

Kach
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all!! It’s been a good while since I’ve been active on here, but always seem to pick up good info from the archives when google searching.

We are back in the RV’ing game with our new Highland Ridge 26BH stick and tin trailer. As expected, the overall quality is a bit lackluster - I bought it expecting to beef things up and make mods over time.

The one thing I’ve been fighting is battery charging for boondocking with the WFCO 8735 converter. Typical 13.6v, no boost mode conundrum. Basically, this thing pretty much needs to go. I’ve looked at the “Boondocker” model replacement converters (leaves the original distribution panel in place). I’m fairly convinced this would help.

1) what amperage should I get? I’m hoping to get by with my 2 6v batteries if possible. I run a Honda 1000 generator (only for batt charging purposes) - would be willing to upgrade if it makes a substantial difference. With our last trailer, we could go almost indefinitely with 2-3 hours of gen runtime per day. Now - not so much!

2) Some supplemental solar is in our future. Is there a solar charge controller that also allows 110//generator charging input? Thought Is I could leave the converter alone and wire up a separate charging setup close to the batteries with large guage wire for better efficiency. Just a thought, if such a thing exists.
31 REPLIES 31

Kach
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all, OP here again!

Long story short, we had an unexpected opportunity to upgrade our truck and trailer to get a new-to-us 5th wheel. It’s a perfect rig for us (never again with the no-slide trailer).

So after this whole process with the last trailer, I opened the fuse panel on the new one and found the WFCO setup once again. This time with a separate deck mounted 55a converter. Converter doesn’t seem to pretend that it will charge at higher than 13.6v (no boost mode claimed anywhere).

It seemed easy enough, so I plopped in the Go Power 35a converter that has been working well with the last trailer. Took about 20 minutes total and was charging right off the bat at 14.3v.

Using 2 - 6v golf cart batteries, now a 2000 watt generator (wish I had done that upgrade first and got a higher amp converter).

Question:
Is the Go Power charging faster with 35a and 14.3+v, or would the WFCO be better on account of 55a despite the 13.6v charging? I already had the Go Power so I just put it in before I got to wondering this.

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
Fisherman wrote:
dedmiston wrote:
BTW, I have solar too and absolutely love it, but I'm not a boor about it. I realize that it isn't for everyone and it was also a large expense that we had to save up for and do it when the time was right.

And at the end of the day if the party comes to our rig, the generator goes on anyway. Solar is awesome, but it isn't a magic wand.


Whole heartedley agree, I've got a couple of panels, but trees and clouds are beyond my capability of moving on a daily and hourly basis.


2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch • 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") • <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
dedmiston wrote:
BTW, I have solar too and absolutely love it, but I'm not a boor about it. I realize that it isn't for everyone and it was also a large expense that we had to save up for and do it when the time was right.

And at the end of the day if the party comes to our rig, the generator goes on anyway. Solar is awesome, but it isn't a magic wand.


Whole heartedley agree, I've got a couple of panels, but trees and clouds are beyond my capability of moving on a daily and hourly basis.

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
BTW, I have solar too and absolutely love it, but I'm not a boor about it. I realize that it isn't for everyone and it was also a large expense that we had to save up for and do it when the time was right.

And at the end of the day if the party comes to our rig, the generator goes on anyway. Solar is awesome, but it isn't a magic wand.

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch • 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") • <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
Fisherman wrote:
Lwiddis wrote:
An adequately sized solar system would be far easier than firing up and running a generator for 2 to 3 hours a day. Quieter too...as in no noise.

Why do the CA types persistently push their solar power. Do you ever think that the rest of the planet doesn't get as much usable sunshine to make the system work.


It isn't the California types, it's just Lwiddis. He has one note and bangs it and bangs it and bangs it.

It seems like everyone from California, but it's just one guy over and over.

I try to delete most of those posts, but sometimes they sneak through.

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch • 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") • <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
Lwiddis wrote:
An adequately sized solar system would be far easier than firing up and running a generator for 2 to 3 hours a day. Quieter too...as in no noise.

Why do the CA types persistently push their solar power. Do you ever think that the rest of the planet doesn't get as much usable sunshine to make the system work.

Kach
Explorer
Explorer
Just a late update - I installed this Go Power converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GN4T2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I left the WFCO in place (switched off the breaker for the converter). I put the Go Power in an extra battery box on top of the batteries on the tongue and routed the wires through the bottom of the box and the 120v cord up through the wiring opening on top. I’m looking for something a bit more water tight, but this is working great for now.

The new converter is working great - much better charging times for sure and gets full voltage on the Honda 1000. It doesn’t seem to hurt anything to have other low-powered items (120v) going as it’s charging (I’m using 2 extension cords - 1 to charge and 1 to run 120v to the trailer when needed. We just upgraded to a 2000 watt gen, so now I wish I had upped the amps, but this should be sufficient. I’m planning on getting some solar for summer camping anyways.

grizzzman
Explorer
Explorer
Kach wrote:
Hello all!! It’s been a good while since I’ve been active on here, but always seem to pick up good info from the archives when google searching.

We are back in the RV’ing game with our new Highland Ridge 26BH stick and tin trailer. As expected, the overall quality is a bit lackluster - I bought it expecting to beef things up and make mods over time.

The one thing I’ve been fighting is battery charging for boondocking with the WFCO 8735 converter. Typical 13.6v, no boost mode conundrum. Basically, this thing pretty much needs to go. I’ve looked at the “Boondocker” model replacement converters (leaves the original distribution panel in place). I’m fairly convinced this would help.

1) what amperage should I get? I’m hoping to get by with my 2 6v batteries if possible. I run a Honda 1000 generator (only for batt charging purposes) - would be willing to upgrade if it makes a substantial difference. With our last trailer, we could go almost indefinitely with 2-3 hours of gen runtime per day. Now - not so much!

2) Some supplemental solar is in our future. Is there a solar charge controller that also allows 110//generator charging input? Thought Is I could leave the converter alone and wire up a separate charging setup close to the batteries with large guage wire for better efficiency. Just a thought, if such a thing exists.


I would suggest leaving the WFCO in place(Just switched off while not in use) It is VERY likely that the WFCO is a long ways from the batteries any ways. PowerMax puts out a 55 a PM3 55LK. this unit can be a 3 stage or an adjustable voltage power supply. Mount it as close to your batteries as you can.
2019 Ford F150 EcoBoost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S. TM2030 SC2030
640 Watts Solar. Costco CG2 208 AH and Lifepo4 3P4S 150 AH Hybrid. ElectroDacus. Renolagy DC to DC charger. 2000 Watt Inverter.
Boondocking is my Deal

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kach wrote:
I have the converter now and sourcing the other pieces to get it hooked up. I have a quick dumb question - It says use “A minimum of 8 awg wire”. Does that mean 8 awg or thicker (lower number) or 8awg maximum thickness? I have some 4 awg to use if that will work.

8 is good
6 is better
4 is great
2 is grand
well, you get the idea.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kach wrote:
I have the converter now and sourcing the other pieces to get it hooked up. I have a quick dumb question - It says use “A minimum of 8 awg wire”. Does that mean 8 awg or thicker (lower number) or 8awg maximum thickness? I have some 4 awg to use if that will work.


Use the 4. It will do better than the 8 for the same length.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Kach
Explorer
Explorer
I have the converter now and sourcing the other pieces to get it hooked up. I have a quick dumb question - It says use “A minimum of 8 awg wire”. Does that mean 8 awg or thicker (lower number) or 8awg maximum thickness? I have some 4 awg to use if that will work.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kach wrote:
It’s rated at 650 watts “maximum power continuous.” The 55a was 800 watts but figured I shouldn’t push my luck.


In that PowerMax link above, you see the 45 amper is given as 650w output.

That is not the input! You see 9 amps for that. Also note the 85% efficiency. So what does all that really mean.

First check the voltage they are using for output-- 650w and 45 amps means 14.44 volts. So that is good. Not using the 13.6 like some do.

Next find the input at 85% using 650w out. 765w. Ok , now do the 0.7 power factor on that to get 1093w required from the gen. (IMO the Honda might do that for a time, since they seem to do a little more than their ratings, but it is better not to overwork the equipment for it to last)

The 9 amps at 120v would be 1080w so that is near that 1093 so all comes out right for that set of specs.

IMO the Honda 1000 could run that 45 amper until the battery voltage got up somewhat. Your output watts is based on battery voltage, so the higher the battery voltage gets while the amps are still at 45 in the Bulk stage, the more input is required from the gen. Max power is just at the end of Bulk before amps taper. As soon as amps taper, the gen can start to ease off.

So it would almost get it done, but not to the end of the Bulk stage so that is not much use where you are doing a 50-80 and Bulk ends at around 80% SOC say. Your gen would overload at more like 75% so you only got a 50-75 done.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Xantrex Power Factor white paper

Unfortunately almost all converters fall in the .7 power factor range so they need more apparent power when on generator so that they can actually extract the wattage they need to operate.

Kach
Explorer
Explorer
I was able to switch my order for the 35a - thanks for the advice on that. My electrical theory knowledge is still a little shaky.

Hopefully good to go now plus a bit cheaper and can use the generator I already have.