Newbie - electrical question, 12V not working

opnspaces wrote:

ccjack wrote:
Update.

The two big red cables going into the back of the disconnect switch show continuity when in the "on" pulled out position. So I do not think the switch is bad.

How much will it cost you in gas and time lost to take it to the dealer. I would go the Home Depot and buy a 50 foot roll of 16 or 14 gauge wire for $20. Hook one end to the negative terminal of the battery. This is now your ground wire for your meter. I would not focus on continuity but rather on voltage. Take a measure from positive at the battery to the end of your new negative ground wire and remember that number.

Now measure for voltage at various points going back to the fuse box. Every voltage check should be within a tenth of a volt of battery voltage.
Check the posts on the circuit breaker.
Check the big red wires on the back of the battery shutoff. You should get battery voltage with each check. If there is battery voltage at the big switch and no voltage at the breaker panel.

If that is the case can you open a door or remove a drawer to be able to look into the cabinet and the back of the panel? Unplug any power and stick your hand in there and feel for loose wires. If you have to then take the 4 to six screws holding the panel in place and pull the panel out of the cabinet.

that is a good suggestion, I will try. the reason I checked continuity on the disconnect switch, is I could barely reach one arm back there to reach it, and I could hold my probes like chopsticks and get the two contacts. Putting one probe on a ground up there was too difficult! Aux cable from batter as you suggest solves that problem plus guarantees you are measuring to battery ground.

This TT is mid kitchen. So the convenience panel is about 5 feet from the fuse panel, wires would go through cabinet (with water heater) then under stove and then to fuse under fridge.