No DC, DC, no DC

[jackquontee]

Decided to do a last-minute, and last of the season camping trip. Got to the park and as I began setting up I realized I didn't have DC power (no lights). I pulled out the multi-meter and had the requisite 12.8 volts. Checked the main 30amp fuse that comes of the batteries and found it fine.

Started checking the fuses installed at the converter and all of them seemed fine. It did seem odd that one of the 15 amp fuses didn't spark when I reinserted it, like the others had done, but I kept hearing a motor start to run (refrigerator?) each time I reinserted one of the 15 amp fuses. Just for the heck of it I turned on a light after going through all of the fuses and, wala, the lights, and every other DC dependent appliance, worked.

I woke up the next morning and had the same problem. Again, I went through the same exercise i went through the night before and had DC. Anyone have any idea what could be happening?

[wa8yxm]

Yup in RV's it is not uncommon for the "Loose Nut" to be other than Behind the Wheel.. And a few Screws Loose too (Same type, A #2 Square often fits them)

[w8eh]

I had a problem like this with a previous Jayco. They used standard electrical wire nuts in the converter for a couple of connections. I found one of the wire nuts was just barely holding things together. Once tightened, the problem never came back.

Look for loose wire nuts and tighten all the screw terminals in the converter were wires are connected. Quality control is not always the #1 priority.

[wa8yxm]

You say you heard a motor run when you put in the fuse and thought it was the Fridge, Do you have fans in your fridge, either inside or out? (A residential fridge would need a lot more than 15 amps and an Absorption fridge has no motors, unless it has a fan or 4 (mine has 4)

A better way to test fuses.

Use a test liht, an automotive test light considting of a device that looks like an old fashion ice pick save the handle is clear or translucent colored plastic, and has a wire coming out of it.. GROUND the clip on teh end of the wire (Find a good ground near by) and on those blade fuses there is a small "Window" on the ends of the fuse.

Bright-bright = good
Bright-Dark = bad
Dark-dark = no power to fuse no test (This shoudl not happen on the house fuse panel but can on the chassis panels if the ignition is off).

[RJsfishin]

Instead of pulling fuses, (does no good) break out the 12v test lite, see where you have 12 volts and where you don't,...which is the point of where the problem lies.

[BB_TX]

While you are at it, check all the wire connections for AC hot, neutral, and ground (with power disconnected). I found quite a number of wire terminal screws not properly tightened on both my AC panel and my 12 volt panel.

[jackquontee]

Thanks for recommending that I check the connections. I did check those at the battery - I'll have to now check at the converter.

[jackquontee]

darsben1 wrote:
His profile states

2013 Aliner Scout
2013 V6 Toyota Tacoma

Thanks for reminding me of the need to change it. It is now a 2016 Aliner Expedition.

[Artum_Snowbird]

I would check and tighten connections at the converter for the positive and the negative main wires to the battery.

Wiggle the wires in the terminal strips, tighten all screws.

[kevden]

When mine was intermittent, I found the battery positive connection at the fuse panel was loose. Check both ends of the battery cables and the ground connection for the panel.

[darsben1]

His profile states

2013 Aliner Scout
2013 V6 Toyota Tacoma

[sch911]

Give us a hint at what kind of RV you have?