Forum Discussion

Retired_andLove's avatar
Sep 16, 2013

No hot water (Update)

Everything worked fine for the first couple of days. The is no hot water. Water heater works. Tank fills after manually draining it but absolutely no hot water comes out of the faucets. I'm thinking that the check valve on the discharge side of the heater is stuck in the closed position possibly by a lime buildup. What I can't figure out is how the air escapes the tank when filling and no water comes out.


needed a impact wrench to take brass check valve off aluminum water heater. Held my breath afraid that it would twist collar off of heater. The keeper for the check valve spring was gon. I assume in water tank. Found a used check valve and have it working. Having a hard time finding a new check valve that will work in the restricted area available.
  • Are you on campground water source ie. pump is not running? Does water come out of the cold faucets? Any chance the Heater bypass valve(s) have been changed?
    I didn't know my water heater HAD a check valve!
  • Dick_B wrote:
    Are you on campground water source ie. pump is not running? Does water come out of the cold faucets? Any chance the Heater bypass valve(s) have been changed?
    I didn't know my water heater HAD a check valve!


    Not all do. Some have them on the output line as part of the winterization system.

    To OP. Hav you used the outside shower and did you leave the taps turned on to it but the head turned off. This causes mixing in the head assembly and subsequent lukewarm or cooler water in the rest of the unit.

    Good luck. Please get back to us with the final fix.
  • If you run the pump do you get water? Maybe the faucet strainers are plugged.
  • No hot water at any faucet?

    No water whether hot or cold at faucets?

    Do you have 3 shut-off valves on water heater......no check valve.
    Only 1 or 2 valves on water heater.....then outlet would have a check valve.
    No water on hot side of faucets...then check valve is either plugged OR has failed.
    The check valve is right at water heater tank......you can remove internals to get hot water flowing and replace when convenient OR leave it out.
    Only really needed IF you winterize.

    I prefer the 3 shut off valves (hot/cold/bypass)....no check valves that fail.
  • Couple of questions.

    If you open the heater drain with the bypass valves in the normal position do you get water coming out of the drain. Your post indicates that you do.

    You said you have no water at all coming out of the hot water faucet. If you change the bypass valves to the bypass configuration do you get water coming out? This would indicate that the plumbing external to the heater is ok.

    If you could loosen the hose connection on the hot water outlet of the heater, with the heater full of water, and see if some water comes out of the heater, that would narrow the options.
  • Check that your bypass valve setup is actually working.

    While de-winterizing at the beginning of this season, my bypass valves would turn, but not actually work. The plastic handles seemed to be stripped from the brass.

    I used strong pliers to grab the valve stem and open it.

    Make sure you don't have the same problem.

    Oh- and the valve between the in and out on your h/w heater should be closed in normal use. Valves are open when parallel with the pipe, closed when perpendicular/crossways.

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