norcold 1210

Has it been running for past 2 weeks or it ran OK for 2 weeks and you just turned it back on?


Unplug electric heater leads from lower board....plug leads directly into the 120V AC outlet and run fridge overnight.
Elements will heat continuously.......circuit board/thermistor bypassed.

If freezers and food compartments cool down then cooling unit is good


Fridge is level......has been level correct???

Batteries good? You need good DC for proper operation of the controls.

So is it NOT working fine when you take it to dealers, they "fix" and it then again breaks? Your comment about the rear being hot makes me wonder if the fans really are working, or the fridge is installed with the proper baffles ? It might be warm, but if the cavity is hot, that's a problem.

FWIW- even though I converted to Helium, we went from 68 degree day temps, to 108 for 3 days, and the fridge never left 33 degrees and -2-+2 in the freezer on setting of 5. That in large part is due to the improved rear airflow

Since you are in Terre Haute, take the time to make an appointment with Leon at National Refrigeration in Shipshewana. He is a young Amish man who bought the business from his uncle. He is very honest and will evaluate your refrigerator and tell you your options. He will not cheat you and you can be sure that what he tells you is the truth about what is wrong with your unit. There is no one who knows them better. He rebuilds the cooling units and can fix and replace a fridge in a few hours.

He uses a cell phone and rarely answers when you call, so leave a message. He will get back to you that day. You will not be disappointed. He replaced our cooling unit four years ago and our Norcold 1211 has never worked better. I guarantee you no one will do a better job.

Dale

1. You went to a PARTS CHANGER for service work. Changing the optical and the rear board would have NOTHING to do with your problem
2. You need to find a Technician that actually KNOWS what he is doing, especially on Norcold 1200 series refers.
3. Your post did not make sense.
"Took it to a norcold dealer, working fine. They said change boards in the door and mother board in back"
WHY would they replace parts if it was working fine???????????????????
4. IS THIS REFER IN A SLIDE ROOM? Doug

Yes in the slide. Tech said change the boards because had problem cooling twice in the past, he said will happen again. I pulled the thermistor wire and it is now cooling. So I guess get a new thermistor.

Dwight205 wrote:
Yes in the slide. Tech said change the boards because had problem cooling twice in the past, he said will happen again. I pulled the thermistor wire and it is now cooling. So I guess get a new thermistor.

In a slide room. Even tho it has the 2 fans, in a slide room the ventilation is CRITICAL. There must be no way for the convection air to bypass the rear condenser fins. Also, I always ADD an additional 12 volt fan blowing OUT the upper door. This help get the hot air OUT better. A DEFECTIVE Thermister will OHM(test) out GOOD. That is why you do the full run test by bypassing the Thermister. Doug

Board and Optical will NOT cause a cooling performance problem. Ignorant untrained Part Changers( I will not call them a tech) always replace parts as they have no training or expertise and assume electronic board type parts must be the problem. Doug

Doug, I unplugged the thermister and it got cold. So replaced that, guess what it works. So now i`m into it for over $400 bucks and the "tech" is just a part changer.

Did you look for the little red light in the black box.......

Couple was asking about mobile RV tech's here in the campground... Their Red Light was (Stress WAS) on.. I turned it off for them. Easy procedure but I will admit I had to do a bit of research since I have a Dometic (you push a button) not a NO-Cold (you use a magent).

Light wasn`t on, I know the magnet trick