Norcold 442 won't cool on LP
I have an old Norcold 442 in my even older RV. Fridge works great on 110V AC. The burner tube was rusted and the flame wasn't very big, so it wouldn't cool on LP. Yesterday I finally got a replacement...
Forum Discussion
Burner flame should be BLUE, STEADY and JUST REACH up into center of Flue opening
*Yellow means incomplete combustion/cooler flame temp...needs more air
If NOT....then remove burner and clean it out
Remove orifice---soak in alcohol and then 'blow dry'----just whistle do NOT use high pressure from air compressor or POKE anything thing thru opening--you WILL damage it
LP System pressure S/B 11" WC (`0.4 psi)
Orifice metered size plus clean burner/slots dictate flame size
Flue and flue baffle cleanliness dictate heat transfer
Flue should be HOT at burner area and VERY Warm at top (most of the heat generated S/B absorbed by flue baffle and be transferred to 'perk tube' which then boils ammonia solution into hot vapor
*Yellow means incomplete combustion/cooler flame temp...needs more air
If NOT....then remove burner and clean it out
Remove orifice---soak in alcohol and then 'blow dry'----just whistle do NOT use high pressure from air compressor or POKE anything thing thru opening--you WILL damage it
LP System pressure S/B 11" WC (`0.4 psi)
Orifice metered size plus clean burner/slots dictate flame size
Flue and flue baffle cleanliness dictate heat transfer
Flue should be HOT at burner area and VERY Warm at top (most of the heat generated S/B absorbed by flue baffle and be transferred to 'perk tube' which then boils ammonia solution into hot vapor
