Norcold N300.3 inconsistent propane functionality...

[gabemcg]

I've spent the last day reading through old topics here but wanted to get some fresh help if possible...

New to me Six-Pax D650 w/ a Nordcold N300.3.

When I first started using the camper, the fridge would light and work for a short while, but as soon as I would turn on the stove or furnace, the fridge would go out.

Pulled propane tank and noticed the output hose from the regulator to the camper supply line was kinked. Straightened this out and now can run both stove burners, furnace, hot water heater, and fridge all at once with no issue. All original regulator and hoses from original build which I think was 2006?

On to the fridge problem... it lights... it runs... but randomly turns off... sometimes after a few minutes, sometimes after an hour.. not sure I've got it to run longer than a few hours.

I am not entirely sure, but I think when I first start the fridge, it is below the temp cutoff point so it starts up running. Maybe it hits the cutoff temp based on the 1-5 setting I have it on and it turns off but the pilot doesn't stay lit? Is that feasible?

I've cleaned things and all looks ok.

Where should I start?

[gabemcg]

Bummer... on last weekends adventure, the fridge turned off overnight twice, and once during the day. It's definitely working better than before, but still not consistently. Any other ideas?

[trailrider]

Yes, probably normal. Some models are better shielded from the wind than others.

[gabemcg]

Got to fully test the fridge out this past weekend... it stayed lit about half the time while driving. It was off when I got to a couple destinations, but I believe that was most likely due to high winds on the roads which blew it out... that sound right?

[MT_BOB]

Yes,glad trailrider informed you,that is the factory fix for this well known problem.Sometimes these units do not stay lit on LP when driving,many conditions can affect them.The 12v heater cartridge is for this,and does not draw a a lot of current,so it is not good for cooling down a hot refrig. but for maintaining the cold.Also, I beg to differ from some posters,here,the N300 is no different than any other non-electronic absorption refrigerator,there IS a pilot.Then, when t/stat calls for cold,the burner flame is increased.If they did not have this feature,they would just over cool,and probably overheat the boiler.

[afidel]

The truck will almost 100% not be able to keep up. But, that might not be a big deal depending on how long you are driving and where the destination is (or more precisely will you have hookups at the destination?). But yes, you can run on propane, they work just fine going down the road. Some will advise turning them off at fuel stations which is probably good advice.

[gabemcg]

It's been well over two days now and its still running! I think that was the fix!

Thank you all very much for the help.

One other related question since I am a new camper owner... while I'm driving and have the truck 12v connected to the camper battery via a DC charge controller, can I have the fridge set to battery power (does the fridge draw more than the truck can keep up with?) or should I have it on propane while moving (is that even possible with the flame?)

[gabemcg]

3 screws on each side of the front of the fridge, and a 2 screws in the back holding the metal shields around the burner and propane to the camper frame.

Slid the fridge out enough to replace the wires.

Running now... will check tomorrow morning to see if it is still running!

[trailrider]

It should have came with instructions.

[gabemcg]

Just received the wiring kit...

Do I just need to remove any mounting hardware and pull the fridge out a little bit to get behind the controls at the top of the fridge?

[gabemcg]

Fridge ran for about 12-18 hours since cleaning the thermocouple which is the longest I've been able to get it to run, but came out this morning and it was off again.

Ordered the wire kit... will update after I receive and install.

[trailrider]

Call Norcold and ask them for a N300 Interrupter-Selector Switch Wire Kit. Kit part number 628119.

From the instruction sheet:
"The purpose of this kit is to repair NORCOLD N300 model refrigerators that do not stay lit in LP Mode."

Edit: It shows up on Amazon also. Read the reviews for some success stories.
https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-Inc-Refrigerators-628119-Installation/dp/B0031XK5QC

[wa8yxm]

The there are two thermocouples
One is the flame sensor it's in the burner compartment and if the firdge works fine on electric the other one is NOT the problem

one issue I've seen (this will cause a fault light to come on or an error code) is a spark gap too wide for the ignightor to jump

Another (Same symtpom) is a clogged or partially clogged gas jet

The flame looks a lot like a pilot light flame but folks that's all there is. that's all that is needed The "Pilot" is the spark-a-matic

[gabemcg]

Thank you for this info.

Just pulled the thermocouple out of the burner box and cleaned it up. Testing now.

It looks like the thermocouple goes up to the top of the fridge... is this accessible from inside the camper by removing the top control panel cover inside the camper?

[Old-Biscuit]

Your Nordcold N300.3 is a 3-way rv fridge
120VAC electric element
12VDC electric element
Propane gas burner

There is NO pilot flame...the flame that you ignite with the piezo sparker IS the main flame
*thermostat is NOT an Automatic gas control system---flame is ON all the time
YOU have to Manually adjust amount of cooling by adjusting the thermostat setting

Thermocouple is used to PROVE Flame is lit so Safety Valve stays open
Loss of Flame Signal (few milliamps generated by heated thermocouple) and safety valve closes

*Dirty thermocouple
*Bad connection on thermocouple and/or interrupter
*Bad thermocouple

Least likely....dirty orifice/burner

Service Manual N300 series
Pg 5---Controls
Pg 6...Operation
Pg 10..Troubleshooting Block Chart for Gas Failure