Norcold N611rt fridge issue

How's your battery?

Check the black box on the back and see if the led is flashing

Battery is fine (and not a factor). After having it happen while camping I tried a few things here at home with it plugged into shore power but with the fridge set to run off propane. It behaved the same way.

I'll have to check the LED and get back to you. (It might take a couple days - it's now off so I have to go turn it on and get it to do it again. :) )

IF the RED LED light on recall box was lit.......you would NOT be able to restart fridge by just turning it OFF and then back ON. When the RED LED comes on all power is shutoff and you have to reset the recall box to reestablish power.

Both ON and GAS LEDs flashing..........does this happen when in 'AUTO' mode, when in 'GAS' mode and doesn't matter....happens either mode?

Have you check the spark electrode/wire for continuity/
Gas valve solenoid resistance......79-85 ohms
Gas valve solenoid wires for continuity
Check voltage at terminal board between GV and GV GRD

I suspect a intermittent voltage problem vs the propane regulator.
Turning fridge OFF/ON would have no affect of regulator

Only 1200/1210 model Norcolds have the recall box. You did NOT replace the one item that can cause this type problem------The Spark Electrode. Replace it. Doug

Old-Biscuit:
I turned it on last night and as expected it's still operating okay today. If it follows the usual pattern it will malfunction sometime tonight or tomorrow while I'm at work.

AUTO or GAS: Either way, but always while operating on gas. I don't know if it malfunctions when operating on electric - I don't normally use it that way so haven't tried it.

Spark electrode wire continuity: good
Gas valve solenoid wires continuity: good
Gas valve solenoid resistance: 92.4-92.8 ohms

I couldn't find anything on the board labeled GV or GV Ground (can't see the back of the board with it mounted though), so guessed here at what you want:

Input voltage to board: 13.4V (shore power)
Voltage to gas valve under load (gas flowing): 12.6V

The refrigerator kicked on while I was checking these things (very shortly after I'd hooked the wires back up to the gas valve after testing its resistance). That gave me a bit of a surprise but also a nice opportunity to measure the voltage (under load) at the gas valve. The refrigerator fired right up by the way. It went through two additional sets of sparking after igniting.

dougrainer:
Spark electrode: Correct, I've not replaced it, operating under the (possibly mistaken) assumption that if that is going to malfunction it would at least sometimes do so when I turn it off and back on. Thus far, it's always fired right up. I've thought the same thing about the gas valve though, so who knows... :)

A defective Spark Electrode will have microscopic cracks in the white Porcelain insulator. These cracks will allow the Hi voltage current to spark to the burner. BUT, these cracks will "leak" the return ac signal that signals the flame. This means the board does not see the return signal that shows the flame. Hence it goes out. I have NEVER replaced a gas valve for intermittent operation. They either work or they don't. I cannot remember replacing a gas valve in the past 10 to 15 years, other than one leaking. I have worked on thousands of refers over the years. Doug

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I just ordered a new electrode.

FYI: No malfunction last night. Figures.

dougrainer had it right - it was the spark/sense electrode. After replacing that it's been working correctly for nearly a week. Thanks.