Norcold N611RT not cooling in either AC and LP modes.

[Rick23]

Hi,

Model Norcold N611RT

I'm sure the answer to this problem exists somewhere on this site, but I figure it might be quicker to ask.

Before leaving the trailer on our last trip (two weeks ago), we left the refrigerator on setting #1 in AC mode. This had previously kept the fridge cool between past visits.

When we returned to the trailer last Friday, the fridge was warm. The green LED was on, no other LED was lit. We had confirmed that a power failure occurred in the park. (This may or may not have something to do with our issue.)

I turned the switch to the off position and turned it back to auto. The green LED came back on, as well as a flashing orange LED. This made sense since the LP gas line was shut off.

If I remember correctly, I again turned the unit off and unplugged the fridge at the back panel and plugged it back in. I then returned inside and turned the switch to auto. I believe the orange LP light stopped flashing.

We waited for a long time, and nothing cooled in AC mode. So we then turned the unit off and opened the LP gas line. I returned inside and turned the switch to GAS. We waited again for a long time and nothing cooled in GAS mode.

I do know that in GAS mode, I can hear things happening. At the back panel, the unit starts (flame and all) and I believe I can hear venting. The last time we used GAS, the fridge seemed to cool quite quickly, but yet no coolness inside the fridge and freezer areas.

It was quite hot out this weekend, so maybe that's a factor?

The power panel fuse seems OK, but I didn't check the control board fuse. I'm thinking the control board fuse is fine since the unit appears to start in GAS mode.

So if I troubleshooted things appropriately, the unit doesn't appear to cool in any mode (AC or LP). Power to the control board and fridge appears to function well.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks, Rick.

[dougrainer]

Gus Bus wrote:
I'm having the same problem. My board fuses are fine. The heating element gets hot in AC mode. I hear the relay turn on. My flame lights in GAS mode. But I get no cooling in the freezer or fridge. When I touch the black tubes of the the cooling unit, only the very lowest level tube is hot. I'm thinking its the cooling unit that took a dump. This thing was working very well for a few months since I got my 5th wheel. Then overnight it went out. My refer is a Norcold n811. I'm curious to see what you figure out. I want to make sure its the cooling unit before I replace it becuase its basically the most expensive part by far. Thanks everyone for your replies to this thread so far.

The best way to determine CU is to hot wire the 120 element for 24 hours. This bypasses the controls. IF the Refer does not get below 38 degrees, the CU is bad. DO NOT run more than 24 hours in hot wire. Doug

[Gus_Bus]

I'm having the same problem. My board fuses are fine. The heating element gets hot in AC mode. I hear the relay turn on. My flame lights in GAS mode. But I get no cooling in the freezer or fridge. When I touch the black tubes of the the cooling unit, only the very lowest level tube is hot. I'm thinking its the cooling unit that took a dump. This thing was working very well for a few months since I got my 5th wheel. Then overnight it went out. My refer is a Norcold n811. I'm curious to see what you figure out. I want to make sure its the cooling unit before I replace it becuase its basically the most expensive part by far. Thanks everyone for your replies to this thread so far.

[Rick23]

Yes, the trailer is level.

So upon my return, I'll check the AC outlet behind the refer and the 5 amp fuse as well. I'll attempt to start it in LP mode and wait to see if things progress.

If there's anything else you'd like me to try, I'd love to do so.

I had read somewhere about "resetting" it, but I believe that's if an error code of some sort occurs. Something about jumpering some pins on the control board.

Thanks for all the help. I'll be sure to post the results I get.

[dougrainer]

1. A BAD cooling unit will still get the freezer cold.
2. Yes, a Bad cooling unit can be replaced. Either a rebuilt/ OEM or a aftermarket (Amish) cooling unit. Depends on how much you want to spend. $500 to $1500 in the CU part only.
3. I doubt you have a bad cooling unit if the unit just left on. BUT, you do KNOW you have to have the refer LEVEL within a few degrees? Running the refer off level, will destroy a Cooling Unit is a few days. Was the RV left on a level site? Doug

[Billmcpvt]

Doug...  I was reading through some of these threads looking for info on my norcold n611.  I saw where you mentioned something about if the unit is off level by just a few degrees then you will probably destroy the cooling unit.  I'm thinking in that club.  My freezer will get cool when I use propane but the fridge won't.  Nothing gets cold on ac power.  I have a power to the plugin behind the unit...

[Rick23]

@opnspaces, When on LP and the flame is lit, the orange light is solid. It just seems to not be cooling. I'm sure I waited long enough. As Doug pointed out, I have felt coolness in the back of the freezer in a very short time when using it in the past. Just not this past weekend.

@Doug, Thanks Doug, I'll pickup a 5 amp fuse and bring it with me next time we go.

If a cooling system is "broken", can it be fixed? If yes, what components are typically needed?

[dougrainer]

For the 120 fuse, is that the same fuse (15 amp) in the trailer's breaker panel, or does another fuse exist elsewhere?


Sorry, I meant the same 5 amp fuse on the Norcold board. I should have made that clear. Doug

[opnspaces]

I have basically the same refrigerator. Just to reiterate what Doug said. If you put the switch to Auto and the Yellow LP light comes on at all, the refrigerator is trying to run on LP. If the LP light is blinking it usually means the LP failed to light.

When you go outside and can hear the flame in the refrigerator, what is the yellow LP light doing? Is it flashing or on solid?

Definitely check for 12v at the plug in the refrigerator compartment.

And last thing, there may be nothing actually wrong with the unit. Mine will sometimes fail to auto switch back and forth between AC and LP when set to Auto. I see this most often when plugged in to the house while getting ready for a trip. If I'm on AC and I disconnect the shore power cord and then reconnect it again, the refrigerator will intermittently stay off with the LP light flashing.

[Rick23]

I'll try and answer your questions as best as I can.


@cavie, There's only the one switch and two lights. The switch is either AUTO, OFF or GAS. In AUTO, I assume it tries AC first, then GAS last. The only colors I've ever seen on those lights are green (ON) and yellow\orange (GAS ON or Flashing).

As for the AC power in the back panel, I haven't tried plugging a light into the outlet to test it. I will do so when we return. I did however flip the breakers. As for the 15 amp fuses, I only see one that has anything to do with the fridge. I assume that fuse is good since the lights turn off when I pull it. I errorenously assumed the fridge had AC power since the lights were on, not realizing the battery powered those lights.

@Lynnmor, If the cooling system has failed, what types of components could\would need to be changed?

@wing_zealot, I do have a battery and it appears to be in good working order since I had to boost my van with it on our last trip. 😉 (off the trailer of course)

@dougrainer, As part of my troubleshhoting, I did flip the breaker which is probably what stopped the flashing LP light when in AUTO mode. Makes perfect sense.

For the 5 amp fuse, I didn't have one, nor did I test the existing one. I'll bring one along on our next visit. If the 5 amp was bad, would I get an LP flame?

For the 120 fuse, is that the same fuse (15 amp) in the trailer's breaker panel, or does another fuse exist elsewhere?

As for your last question, I do have a flame on LP operation.

Thank you for all the replies.

Rick.

[dougrainer]

1. In Auto mode, the LP lights and indicators will not come on or function, because the refer is working on 120. IF you have it on Auto and the LP lights function on the inside panel your refer has LOST the 120 circuit.
2. Lost 120 can be
1. the breaker for the 120 plug has tripped
2. Your receptacle for the refer is on a GFCI and the GFCI has
tripped
3. You have 120 to the refer receptacle and the 5 amp fuse for the
120 circuit ON the Norcold board has blown due to your power
outage
4. Both your 120 element fuse AND the 120 element have failed due
to that power outage
2. LP function WILL NOT Cool faster than 120 operation--common misconception
3. When starting a warm RV refer, you always give it 24 hours to reach optimal max cooling. You will notice cool/cold in the freezer back wall within 2 hours of startup.
4. Odds are you had a power surge when you had the 120 interruption. THIS would not cause a failure of the cooling unit. It would cause the 120 element fuse and/or the element to fail. Doug

PS, you are stating that you do have LP flame when on LP only operation?

[wing_zealot]

Do you have a 12V battery hooked up in the trailer?

[Lynnmor]

If you have a gas flame then you should have cooling. If no cooling, the cooling system has failed.

[cavie]

When in Gas mode the Auto switch must be OFF to run on Gas if you are plugged into shore power, the fridge will seek AC power if is available. Check your 120 breaker labeled Refrigerator. Even on AC the fridge uses 12 volts for control circuit and light. That's why you have yellow and green lights. Do you have power at the back side outlet?