We have two N841R refrigerators on our houseboat at Lake Powell. Yesterday while running the generator with the refrigerators in AC mode, one of the refrigerator powerboards caught fire where the AC powercord attaches.Fortunately several were on board and were able to quickly put out the fire.We are having our dealer come out, but it is interesting to note that Thetford customer support provided no assistance, and refused to let us talk to a technician to determine root cause.Surprising lack of support, we've bought 4 of these refrigerators in the past 5 years, you think they could at least take our phone call.Link to pics:https://photos.app.goo.gl/wqr5zK7TbjtHwf373

I'd say it got a little hot. Looks like something shorted out.

Jim_Arndt wrote:We have two N841R refrigerators on our houseboat at Lake Powell. Yesterday while running the generator with the refrigerators in AC mode, one of the refrigerator powerboards caught fire where the AC powercord attaches.Fortunately several were on board and were able to quickly put out the fire.We are having our dealer come out, but it is interesting to note that Dometic customer support provided no assistance, and refused to let us talk to a technician to determine root cause.Surprising lack of support, we've bought 4 of these refrigerators in the past 5 years, you think they could at least take our phone call.Pretty much why more and more people are going with a residential refrigerator.Bill

Well IF the model number is a N841 it is a NORCOLD so that is probably why Dometic was of no help :SElectrical fire at AC terminals on circuit board was probably due to loose/corroded connections.Water environment requires higher degree of maintenance \Glad fire was localized.

I'm confused. The N841R is a Norcold product...In any case, I would highly recommend a TF2600 from TruckFridge or a similar compressor system. It takes five amps (60 watts), but it will be reliable.

ctilsie242 wrote:I'm confused. The N841R is a Norcold product...My bad, post edited... :S

Norcold Refrigerator Fire | Good Sam Community

WILDEBILL308
Explorer II
Nov 22, 2017
When my cooling unit quit there was yellow powder. I would be looking at residential units to replace it. If you look at "counter depth" units they will fit better.
Bill
Jim_Arndt
Explorer
Nov 22, 2017
Yep, the cooling unit is shot. Time for a new unit, have lots of spare parts... :(
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Nov 22, 2017
Ammonia fridges don't gurgle. They are silent.
Jim_Arndt
Explorer
Nov 22, 2017
Oh no guys, I just put 350 in parts to repair the refir. I started it up in ac mode, 10 minutes later it is gurgling very loudly. I shut it down as we were heading into down for dinner, I will test again when I get back later.

Leaking cooling unit? Any wat to check, it was covered in yellow powder, I assumed from the fire extiguisher. Maybe the dark yellow ammonia mixed with the white powder exringuisher stuff. Anyways, sucks to diagnose this drom 1000 miles away. Had a good day at the lake today though...

Thoughts?
Jim_Arndt
Explorer
Sep 07, 2017
mike-s wrote:
Jim_Arndt wrote:
Wow, ok, so the fuse would not blow? There is a 5 amp fuse on the powerboard, and a circuit breaker at the main ac panel.
The fridge won't draw more than 5 A normally, so that's the fuse size. It might try to pull, say, 4 A, but instead of powering the fridge, the power goes into the resistance of the bad connection, which heats up. 4 A @ 12 V is 48 watts, and confined to a small area that equals lots of heat. It's not quite that simple, but the concept is close enough.

Any time smoke comes from the area of a connection, suspect a bad connection. It may not have been the screw terminal, it could also be a crimped connection. Kinda hard to tell from the photo, not enough resolution.

I think if there was a direct short, it would of been enough current to pop the breaker.

I updated the link in the original post, with a before picture and a picture of a new powerboard. I'm not at the boat, but it looks like norcold has a special plug that goes over the spade connector on the powerboard, not sure? Also, yes the cable is clamped, you can see this clearly in the before picture.

A screw down type of clamping connector on the powerboard, similar to what you see on an AC circuit breaker, would of prevented this fire.

Link to pics:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wqr5zK7TbjtHwf373
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Sep 07, 2017
ScottG wrote:
First make sure the connection is sound and working.
Then, if you must, apply dielectric grease.
Just keep in mind that DG DOES NOT improve an existing connection.

correct but it slows corrosion. A good mechanical fit is always required first. I used DG anywhere there is a chance of moisture issues.
mike-s
Explorer
Sep 07, 2017
Jim_Arndt wrote:
Wow, ok, so the fuse would not blow? There is a 5 amp fuse on the powerboard, and a circuit breaker at the main ac panel.
The fridge won't draw more than 5 A normally, so that's the fuse size. It might try to pull, say, 4 A, but instead of powering the fridge, the power goes into the resistance of the bad connection, which heats up. 4 A @ 12 V is 48 watts, and confined to a small area that equals lots of heat. It's not quite that simple, but the concept is close enough.

Any time smoke comes from the area of a connection, suspect a bad connection. It may not have been the screw terminal, it could also be a crimped connection. Kinda hard to tell from the photo, not enough resolution.
shastagary
Explorer
Sep 07, 2017
look at way the other wires going to the circuit board are pinched against the metal back of the refrigerator by what is left of the black cover on the circuit board. if the ac power wires were pinched against that metal back and were getting hot enough to melt there insulation or pinched hard enough to cause there insulation to be thin in that spot they could easily short out. are they only protected by the breaker to the ac outlet 15?-20? amp through those smaller wires. now after blowing up the picture looks like the fire started below the black cover where the ac cord connects to the refrigerator was there some kind of a clamp there holding the power cord?
ScottG
Nomad
Sep 06, 2017
First make sure the connection is sound and working.
Then, if you must, apply dielectric grease.
Just keep in mind that DG DOES NOT improve an existing connection.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Sep 06, 2017
I tend to check every connection myself and apply di-electric grease and or check the tension on wire clips. I do that with automotive Molex connectors too.

Far as sleeping, so long as your electric blanket don't catch fore, you are ok...lol

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