Not sure if I need a new converter or.............

[TakeNothin4Gran]

I have a Springdale TT with a Dometic fridge and the standard WFCO 3 stg converter. It's hooked up to the house so there's power in it.

Here are my Springdale's symptoms:

The refrigerator decided last week to shut down. But, it will will turn on if the M/W is being used or if I turn the hot water heater breaker on. Sometimes it will stay on for a day or so and sometimes it's stubborn and will turn off within a couple hours.

Now, when the fridge turns off, it doesn't kick it's breaker off. No breaker within the WFCO unit has ever kicked off. I just keep the water heater off since we don't use it so no need to pay the extra $$$.

Also, when it's on, the fridge works just fine. Keeps everything cold/frozen no problem. I've never used LP with it and actually gave my son the large tanks to use for his bbq & outdoor heater so I don't have them currently.

What do you guys/gals think my best course of action should be? Is there a way to just switch out the actual fuse part for the fridge or should I replace the whole unit or .........

Thanks for your expertise!!

Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.

[enblethen]

120 volts dropping out can cause the system to switch to LP or battery power.
I would suggest also checking the DC connections.
The light panel and LP detector are 12 volts DC.
Check the fuse holders in the DC panel. Make sure the fuses are tight. I would change out any of the main fuses. Should be reverse polarity in one end of the converter. There should be a main fuse in DC power distribution panel. Should be a circuit breaker or fuse near the battery(ies)

[TakeNothin4Gran]

I guess I'm confused smkettner because I don't have the battery hooked up. It's a direc connect to the house.

I just checked the connection to the house and all seems alright. None of it feels "warm" and I turned the house breaker for that outlet on/off. It seems to be fine. Everything else on that breaker is fine - house phone and outside light. The fridge/LP gas sensor still don't seem to want to stay on.

I'll do as enblethen suggested next and maybe that'll help figure this out!!! Thanks.......

[time2roll]

What is the battery voltage?
What is the voltage on the 12v side of the power distribution center?

If you have a portable battery charger.... slap it on and see if that helps.

[TakeNothin4Gran]

No Old-Biscuit, the light panel goes out when the fridge goes out and the LP detector goes out too.

[TakeNothin4Gran]

OK enblethen - will check on those things. Wouldn't it be nice if it was something as benign as that!!!

@Hornnumb2 I won't have access to my LP for a while because my son is out of town on their vacation and won't be home. For some reason I have an inkling it's an electrical issue of some sort....... But, if I had the LP I'd do that too!! Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

The converter supplies 12V DC system with battery and recharges battery.

The fridge s being run on electric heater element (120V AC) as is your microwave (M/W) and your water heater (cause you don't have propane hooked up).

Your fridge running when M/W is running has nothing to do with converter/DC system
You have a 120 AC problem.......probably loose wiring in your Main AC Dist. Panel

You could have a DC control circuit problem IF your fridge panel lights are going out when fridge turns off. Do the fridge panel lights work/stay lit??

[enblethen]

I would check the 120 volt shore power connections.
If you are using an adapter, check for heat build up and discoloration on the pins.
I would take a little time and check connections in the 120 volt power distribution panel. Pay special attention to the neutral (white wires) in the rear of the panel. Look for any metlted insulation. I would suggest getting some electrical grease and re-terminate the conductors with a liberal amount og electrical grease.

[Hornnumb2]

I think I would try it on LP first, maybe that will narrow it down. I had one that worked on LP and not at all on electric and turned out to be in the on/0ff switch.