Overloading A D.C. Inductive Panel Ammeter?

Mine do not seem to "bounce". They agreed with a Fluke meter when installed--but have not been tested since. They are NOT mission critical in my case.

landyacht318 wrote:
What I love about the hall effect ammeter is that it can be put on the (+) battery cable. I used to have my HE sensor readng total alternator output, but once that cursiosity was satisfied, I moved it to the battery cable.

Should be noted that they provided a 2 meter 3 wire ribbon cable for my meter for between sensor and display, and I cut this in half and added some about 5 feet pf 22AWg wires to its center. This could be why mine bounces around 0.6 amps from actual, or perhaps it would do sao without this midification, I know not, Its not a big deal. Sometimes it does not bounce around that 0.3 amps +/- actual.

I just like seeing how much amperage the battery accepts a minute after starting the engine, and watching that decline as I drive. Well worth the 18$ I spent for it.

Glad to see there are so many other hall effect ammeters on the market now.

the reading bounce you see is likely not a result of the longer wires. (1) if you are moving, IMHO all bet's are off with a hall device sensor for stable readings, the earths magnetic field variations along with variations of anything nearby can cause the hall device output to change. and (2) even when stationary lower readings on hall devices have variations unless the design was very well done and well shielded from outside magnetic fields.

It is nice to see the hall device DC current meters on the market now at reasonable prices with reasonable accuracy. Not that long ago hall device DC meters were pretty spendy.

What I love about the hall effect ammeter is that it can be put on the (+) battery cable. I used to have my HE sensor readng total alternator output, but once that cursiosity was satisfied, I moved it to the battery cable.

Should be noted that they provided a 2 meter 3 wire ribbon cable for my meter for between sensor and display, and I cut this in half and added some about 5 feet pf 22AWg wires to its center. This could be why mine bounces around 0.6 amps from actual, or perhaps it would do sao without this midification, I know not, Its not a big deal. Sometimes it does not bounce around that 0.3 amps +/- actual.

I just like seeing how much amperage the battery accepts a minute after starting the engine, and watching that decline as I drive. Well worth the 18$ I spent for it.

Glad to see there are so many other hall effect ammeters on the market now.

The one that failed was a 70 amp--not a 100 amp. I use one for monitoring the alternator charging for the house bank.

Since I changed to the telecom jars it almost never charges. I thought that perhaps switching to an AGM starter battery would fix that, but there was no change.

echo

Well for AGM full charge usage leaving "E" at constant 14.4 and watching "I" wander a tenth for a few minutes should be good enough to assssume the half of one percent is good enough for hand grenade accuracy.

I like analog ammeters for casual glance-at ergonomics. IE "Halfway up now, so it's getting there aptitude".

My N.I.S.T. certified meters went the way of the auction block 27 years ago. I even had a 3 foot square gray panel with 10 pole decade switches and a full scale 3.0 4" round meter that was glycerin filled. WWII sub battery monitor? You got me.

ktmrfs
Chargerl' housing is plastic and it's a Meanwell 1500 watt RSP unit (aluminum) -- so good luck there :)

The analog amps will be dialed-in with 11 Bourns 3K 19 turn cermets.

And thanks for some intelligent info about the meter Landy. Why ignorant people respond to concise questions on eBay is beyond me. "Yeah. I own six. Dah meter shows "L" when out of range" (especially after smoking a quarter pounder?)

as mentioned, for DC current either a resistive shunt or hall effect device is used.

If it is a shunt, then overload conditions can lead to quick failure. Depends on how much and how long, it's basically a resistive element.

Hall devices are much more tolerant of overload. First, what is the overload limit for the hall device itself. It could be WAY more than the max range of the meter itself. Hall devices do present a load to the circuit, nothing comes for "free", but the load is milli or mico ohms. But hall devices can heat up.

So, it's hard to answer your question on overload without knowing the spec's on the hall sensor, that's the key. But I'm going to say, it can likely withstand sigificant overload for maybe even hours, days, or forever.

The inexpensive meters I've seen use a common meter and then hall sensors for max range with the hall sensor output set to match meter max range at the spec'd meter range.

Now for the "zeroing" question. Hall devices are a magnetic field sensor. So..... anything that changes the magnetic field will change the reading. Location, anything in the proximity, time of day.

And finally I'll echo landyahts comments. When at a small fraction of max reading unless it is extremely well designed, a hall sensor is very likely to show (a) lot's of reading bounce and (b) significant error due to field variations and poor zeroing function.

In a previous life I was involved with inductive and hall device current measuring devices with high precision, traceable to NBS, etc. The hall design is NOT trivial, and the cost involved in having a linear stable reading is involved. While we had significant patents around the technology, the real key was our in house "trade secrets", that were well protected. That was more important than anything. And we did not buy our hall devices, we could not find sources that gave us the quality we needed. Our hall devices were fab'd in house, again with lots of "magic sauce" and "trade secrets".

Not me! Mr Wiz just gets away with his 100a because of a smaller microwave ISTR

I have a 500a shunt with Trimetric.

Hi Mex,

I think that Mr Wizard or BFL13 had an inductive meter that gave up the ghost possibly from overage. Mine is rated for 70 amps. I've never been close to that.

'Bayite DC 5-120V 100A Mini Digital Current Voltage Amp Meter Ammeter Gauge with Hall Effect Sensor Transformer'

I have the above unit.

It has a resolution to only 0.2 amps, and will bounce around with my engine running about 0.6 to 0.8 amps around the actual figure. Where my shunted ammeter does not.
Basically it is useless for determining end amps with any precision. Close enough, sure.
Perhaps it needs better shielding in my rig, but that 0.2 amp resolution is not getting any better.