Plugging into house?

[EagleScout-USA]

When plugged in at home, should I:

1. plug the trailer 30 amp cord into the adaptor (reducer) then to a standard extension cord which in turn will be plugged into my regular home outlet in the garage, or

2. purchase a 30 amp extension cord (25 feet) and connect that to the 30 amp trailer cord, with the adaptor (reducer)then plugged directly in to my home outlet

I realize not to use any items with a significant electrical draw while not plugged into a 30 amp service, but I want to ensure safety and avoid electrical problems by ensuring I do this right.

Thanks!

[Gene_Ginny]

EagleScout-USA wrote:
..1. plug the trailer 30 amp cord into the adaptor (reducer) then to a standard extension cord which in turn will be plugged into my regular home outlet in the garage,...

That is how mine is year round when not camping for the last 8 years. Just can't run the electric water heater, microwave or air conditioner on that little 16 ga cord. I pull out the 12 ga extension cord if I want to test the heavy stuff.

[tenbear]

The only thing I use in the MH when parked at home is the converter, occasionally a light or two, the water pump and the refrigerator when getting ready for a trip. I use an el-cheepo 16ga extension and a hockey puck adapter.

I have voltmeters and ammeters monitoring the power and all is well.

[fla-gypsy]

I use a 10ga extension cord and plug into my dedicated 20A washer outlet and it will run my A/C. Kind of nice when I'm out doing something in there in the summer.

[DutchmenSport]

I think it's best to purchase the RV 30 amp extension cord and then use the dog-bone adapter from shore power plug to the extension cord. This way, you also have an extension cord you can use when camping. You never know when you may need to use more cord than is available with what "just" comes with your camper, especially when camping at a new campground you've never been to before. You just never know what to expect, this way, you are prepared if you need it. Photo below shows I used (one) of my 50 foot cords, because the 35 foot that's installed in the camper was just too short:

[Road_Runners]

I have run our ac many a time from a 20 amp plug. We make sure, however, that no other alternating current electrical appliance is running when we are using the air conditioner.

[Dave_H_M]

I been using the same two "hokey puck" adapters for about two decades not without nary a hint of a problem.

I think it is urban legend, unless i got two good ones with the luck of the draw.

[Oldme]

For the past 3 years we have had our 30 amp system hooked up whenever we are home.

I have a adapter into contractor grade 12 ga extension cord into a power strip
in the garage.

This runs the converter, the refrigerator, a battery maintainer for the chassis battery and I have run the A/C without problems.

In the winter I have a 1500 watt electric heater to keep things from freezing
as I only do minimal winterizing. This has worked down to 6* so far.
If I want to run the furnace that works also.

Searching your documentation on the appliances will show the amps each takes.
Just stay in a safe area of usage.

[RoyB]

I have both my 30AMP trailers here at home plugged into two separate 120VAC 20AMP circuits in my garage... Both my trailers have smart mode on-board converter/chargers in them and this keeps my battery banks charged up normal all the time.

I use the RV30A-15A long Adapter from WALMART to adapt down the RV30 SHORE POWER plug to 120VAC male plug.. DO NOT USE the small RV30A-15A adapters



Then I plug this into a 50-foot 10-GAUGE (10-3) contractor type Extension Cord that is plugged into separate 120VAC receptacles in my garage. You could use a 12-GAUGE (12-3) Extension cord but those 14-16GAUGE you find at Walmart is too small to use. They will get hot burn up your 30A plug.


We use everything in the both RV trailers here including Air Conditioner and microwave. We do have to watch what is on at the same time otherwise we will trip the garage breaker.

We also have one of these RV120VAC plug in VOLTMETERs in each trailer to get a glance of the 120VAC POWER before we turn things on in the trailer. If the readings are NOT in the printed safe zone on meter face we will not try to use and high wattage things.


Like said above having these adapters along with you on trips comes in handy sometimes. I can plug into my 2KW portable generator or into the kids garage when we visit them etc...

Roy Ken

[time2roll]

:E Just do not plug into any 30 amp dryer outlet :E

+1 for a dog-bone style over puck adapter.
And that 'standard' extension cord should be #12 wire or better.

[j-d]

For the adapter going from the house receptacle to the HD RV cable, a "dogbone" style adapter lasts much longer. The kind with a short cable between plug and socket. The rubber "hockey pucks" tend to melt at amps the circuit can easily deliver. Dogbone will let you go to the 15A or 20A that your breaker box provides.

[Chandalen]

It will work fine. DO NOT turn your AC on. The fridge should be on as long as the run isnt too long. check the voltage at the fridge to make sure its not too low under load.

I bought a 50a to 30a adapter because at a lot of the places I have been (military RV parks mostly) the 30a is broken, or tripps at 20 amps etc. The 50a are damn near all brand new.

[AllegroD]

2.

[gbopp]

I plug in using a regular extension cord. All I use is the lights and converter to charge the batteries.

A heavy duty extension cord is a good idea.

[wildtoad]

having an extra power cord may come in handy for some campgrounds so I'd opt for the 30 amp extension.