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Portable flux wire welder recommendation

JusBud
Explorer
Explorer
We do a lot of boondocking and off roading so I carry an 80 amp wire flux welder.
It's too small even for around the house.

Not sure if a 130A will be much better especially on 115volt but it won't break the bank.
130A

I like this one since it's dual voltage. I do have a 220volt outlet at home.
You can also use sticks and I've welded with those too.
I probably won't get gas bottles and gauges but at least it has the option.
165A
29 REPLIES 29

hornet28
Explorer
Explorer
Your off road running puts a little different slant on things. I use a Miller 210 and love it, But it's not what I would call a portable unit.

JusBud
Explorer
Explorer
Not just away from home. I have wrought iron fence that I've needed to install new sections and welder came in handy as well as some exhaust work on the off road rzr.

That's why portable is handy.
I have 220volt at home so I initially thought a dual voltage would be nice.

We off road when we camp and if something happens to break on the razor then we're probably done riding for the weekend.
If i can put the welder to use and keep on going till I get home and order parts then it's worth it.

It's one of those tools that you have but might not need but if you don't have it you might need it.

hornet28
Explorer
Explorer
Being that your only wanting this for possible away from home repairs why not just wait until you have something that needs welding and get it done at a shop on the road. With the little welders your looking at I wouldn't want to be doing anything heavy or critical. In the last 11 years I've pulled my own trailers around 75K+ without the need of a welder. In that time I've had one flat, one tire failure and that's all the trailer trouble I've had. Keeping up with maintenance is a real key to trouble free travel

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dang GT, you feel better now? :R

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
JusBud wrote:
Thank you MrWizard
I have a campbell hausfeld 80 amp for 20 years also.
It works and I even welded some fence around the house
But it's heavy and only adjustment is wire speed

I've welded for over 40 years. Mainly stick.
Not sure why you're getting so defensive and judging me without knowing me.
I didn't know what I wanted when I posted and wanted to get some ideas. The original 2 welders I was considering isn't what I want.
After doing some research the DC inverter welder is exactly something that fits my needs and wants.
Not sure why that's so bad.
It's compact, lightweight, and has amp and wire feed settings and it doesn't break the bank.

Your final quote was totally unnecessary.
"Stupid is what stupid does" - Forest Gump..
When someone stoops that low then I have no reason to listen to what you have to say and you lost all credibilty
There are a few posters who get very confrontational when told that their ideas don't match what you want. They apparently feel that the way they do it is the only way to do it, and you must be stupid if you disagree. They sometimes have some good advice, but they rarely inform without preaching.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

mountainkowboy
Explorer
Explorer
Just get a ready welder....you have the batteries.
Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Molly
2007 Tiffin Allegro 30DA
2011 Ford Ranger
1987 HD FLHTP

JusBud
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you MrWizard
I have a campbell hausfeld 80 amp for 20 years also.
It works and I even welded some fence around the house
But it's heavy and only adjustment is wire speed

I've welded for over 40 years. Mainly stick.
Not sure why you're getting so defensive and judging me without knowing me.
I didn't know what I wanted when I posted and wanted to get some ideas. The original 2 welders I was considering isn't what I want.
After doing some research the DC inverter welder is exactly something that fits my needs and wants.
Not sure why that's so bad.
It's compact, lightweight, and has amp and wire feed settings and it doesn't break the bank.

Your final quote was totally unnecessary.
"Stupid is what stupid does" - Forest Gump..
When someone stoops that low then I have no reason to listen to what you have to say and you lost all credibilty

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
20yrs with a Linchon 90 amp flux core

use several times a year for temporary repairs or building things
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
JusBud wrote:
So you're not a professional welder and yet I don't know anything at all and I'm supposed to listen to you?
Got it.
Let me rephrase and repeat my original post.
I don't want to use gas.
I don't want to look at the bigger picture.
I'm looking for a portable compact welder to get by in a pinch as I stated I have a friend that can fix it right when I get home.
I'm not starting my own business nor will I be welding everyday.
I don't want to spend $1000+

If someone comes here and asks about getting into a basic rv do you tell them to just get a Newell or Prevost?


:R

You do realize, MIG wire IS A HARD, HIGH TENSILE STRENGTH, it does not grind down easily so reworking it after the fact is a chore. Nothing like doing things the hard way twice.

Nothing like the joys of grinding off the junk MIG welds at home and redoing all of that work.. Your "friend" may not be your "friend" for long after they spend hrs grinding and redoing down your "handy work"..

You obviously have ZERO clue about welding, it shows by not listening to someone who has been doing welding home projects for 35+ yrs.

If you feel you NEED to do field repairs just to get home, I would not TRUST a cheapo shielded core MIG wire repair. For that kind of repair a small STICK welder is where you need to go. MIG welding does not do well with DIRTY material, grease, oil, RUST will PREVENT MIG welds from having penetration and strength. Stick welding on the other hand depending on what coating it has CAN make strong field repairs on dirty steel.

You can even make your own stick welder with two to three 12V batteries connected in series.. Just need a couple of heavy leads with a rod holder on one and a ground clamp on the other..

But, you obviously had you mind made up before you posted, WHY bother posing, you already wanted to buy junk, there is no reason to ask which piece of junk is "better".

Since you already had you mind made up, then just buy the cheapest HF welder you can get, there is no difference between the $119 HF welder and the $199 welder let alone the $400 welder you posted, there is absolutely no reason to spend $199, it will not produce any better welds than the HF one.

"Stupid is what stupid does" - Forest Gump..

JusBud
Explorer
Explorer
So you're not a professional welder and yet I don't know anything at all and I'm supposed to listen to you?
Got it.
Let me rephrase and repeat my original post.
I don't want to use gas.
I don't want to look at the bigger picture.
I'm looking for a portable compact welder to get by in a pinch as I stated I have a friend that can fix it right when I get home.
I'm not starting my own business nor will I be welding everyday.
I don't want to spend $1000+

If someone comes here and asks about getting into a basic rv do you tell them to just get a Newell or Prevost?

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
JusBud wrote:
I'm not looking to build a Golden Gate bridge.
I also drive a 13 year old rv by a manufacturer that went out of business but it serves the purpose for our intended use.

I'm looking for something for the occasional repair and I can bring it to my friend when I get home who has all the right stuff.


You obviously do not have an understanding at all about welding.

Cheap low amperage MIG welds and using Flux core wire = GARBAGE WELDS PERIOD.

You need to look at the bigger picture.

Cheap low amp MIGs will have severely limited 10% "on time (Weld)" at max amperage. That means at max amperage you weld ONE MINUTE then you HAVE TO STOP AND WAIT TEN MINUTES for the welder to cool.

a better brand will have LONGER "ON time (weld)" typically 20 on/ 80 off or 20% and possibly even higher ratio.

Additionally having a higher amperage, you CAN ALWAYS TURN IT DOWN increasing your weld time.

Higher amperage also gives you BETTER weld penetration, a very important item which means your welds WILL BE STRONGER.

The "prettiness" does not come into play, even some of the uglyess welds can be strong as long as you have melted deep enougn into the parent metal.

A 90A Mig is pretty much maxed out with 1/8" steel, 140A welder will be able to weld 1/4" steel.

Then there is the heat level vs the wire speed.. Many cheap welders have notched heat settings, often the amperage you need is IN BETWEEN those notches..

Wire speed control IS critical in getting the proper amount of wire delivered to the weld, too little and you gouge out holes, too much and you build birds nests of wire..

Cheap welders have lousy speed controls, lousy wire drives, lousy wire liners causing you to fix wire jams, poor welds and a lot of frustration in trying to get it right.

Shielding gas IS critical to making a good weld, shielded core wire places the shielding gas in the CENTER or the wire which is the exact opposite of where it NEEDS to be.

What happens with shielded core is the shielding gas MUST escape to the OUTSIDE of the hot metal.. This causes the hot metal to literally explode. Creates bubbles, rocks, pebbles and weak welds.

Yeah, I had a cheap $199 85A Campbell Hausefeld (SP) that was a real pain, wasted a lot of wire, caused me to spend hrs waiting on the thing to cool down..

Cheap MIGs are not the place to start learning welding, fortunately for me, I had a lot of welding experience, Oxy/ac, brazing, stick welding. There is a learning curve to MIGs, getting the heat and wire speed correct for the material can be difficult if you have never used MIG before..

After getting the Miller Autoset, I would never recommend using the cheap MIGs..

By the way, sold the cheap one for $75 less than half of what I paid, my Miller WILL have considerably higher resale value if I wanted to get rid of it..

Shielding gas can be a a pain to get, most places want to rent the cylinders, there are some places like Rural King which will sell you a cylinder from $200 and up, then exchange when empty for $20 or so.

I am not a professional welder, only a hobby welder, I do have a Brother who does have quite a few welding certs and he agreed with my choice of the Miller when I asked him.. He had bought a Lincoln MIG but when I showed him the Miller autoset, he wished he had bought the Miller Autoset instead..

C_B_
Explorer
Explorer
Gdetrailer wrote:
JusBud wrote:
Decided on a DC inverter welder
The Century FC90 has good reviews and priced right
Half the size and weight that i currently have
FC90

Tractor supply has something similar but 140amp
Probably not worth the extra money for what I need
140 amp


What utter garbage..

Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a REAL welder up front the first time, then you will never have to revisit finding another one..

Something like a Millermatic autoset..



Millermatic 140A Autoset..

That pix is what I bought quite a few years ago after banging my head against the wall which inferior cheap garbage MIGs.

Hands down the autoset feature WILL make your life easier.

In auto set mode, you simply set the dial to the metal thickness and it will automatically set the current output AND the wire feed speed to the proper settings.

No joke..

I have no issue welding SHEET METAL with the autoset, don't try that with those cheap welders.

Do yourself another HUGE favor, do not bother with self shielding wire and get the shielding gas, your welds WILL vastly improve..

Not sure if that model is still available

I believe they may have replaced my model with this one..



Millermatic 211 which may be an inverter version..

Expensive, yes, but well worth doing right the first time instead of beating your head against the wall..




Best advice I've seen yet!



C.B.
CBVP2004~FORD~F350~CC~LARIAT~SRW~SB~4X4~6.0D~
AUTO~PULLRITE 16K SUPERGLIDE~DEMCO GLIDERIDE~
PRODIGY CONTROLLER~C-BETR MIRRORS~EMS-HW50C~

Butch/Barb=2013-Cedar Creek 36CKTS
Kris/Katy=2006-Cherokee 32B

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have not experienced this but I have been warned that some high end welders do not like to be powered by marginal powered generators. I was told by they guy I bought my Miller Passport from to not run it on my 3500W generator, even at a lower current. It's hard on some of the components.

I have a no frill, plain jane Farmhand 125 that I use with my generator.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

hornet28
Explorer
Explorer
It doesn't matter how great the bead looks if you don't have good penetration.You may not be building a bridge but you don't want to be rewelding because of lack of penetration causes it to break before you can have someone redo it. Buy a good welder to start with and you won't have to buy another or depend on others to redo your welds