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Power Efficient Computer Monitor Upgrade?

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Hopefully this separate thread will eliminate hijacking another.

Many RV'ers including myself use laptops instead of desktop units. But the 17" laptops seem to gobble laptop battery power at an astonishing rate. So here I am with a 15.6"

I start shopping online for a 23" power thrifty monitor, and run into a blizzard of hyperbole and confusion. I do not have HDMI. Merely an old Compaq CQ57 with video connection.

I would prefer a screen resolution as clean as what's on the laptop. But this is up to the video card inside the computer.

Do monitors operate directly off a 12 volt power brick? I would love a 23" monitor that consumes 2.0 amperes of 12 volt power. Or less.

And then, up jumps my ugly troll social insecurity income.

I would love to stick the laptop on a shelf and use the monitor and wireless keyboard with track ball. I would fabricate a stand that allows the monitor to be placed about 30" from me, and then conjure up a sound system with a parts express Lepai audio amplifier and 2 of their 5" speaker bookshelf speakers.

But limited money is the needle that pops the balloon of such dreams. 12 volt power efficiency is key. Or do I run the speaker amplifier through an inexpensive 12 volt car radio amplifier?

The monitor is by far the most important item.
61 REPLIES 61

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
DONE DEAL! I am finished Q&A

I have learned a lot and I am satisfied and confident now that I will not make fundamental boo-boo's in component selection. Thanks again westend and everyone else.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
westend, I apologize for not replying earlier. I followed your link and said to myself "Wow!" Then the question of what size enclosure to use came up. If you have a recommendation I would love to hear it!

I am going to "move" on this subject next week. Order speakers, cabinet and an amplifier. Another dumb question: I spent twenty dollars on an USB to 3.5 mm "external sound card" for this laptop. It made an amazing difference in clarity and volume with headphones. is this soundcard to be used with an external amplifier?

I am going to do my best to try and keep battery draw under 5 amps. I figure I will be listening to the speakers from a distance of five feet. Maybe young Strauss, softly, from a distance of 20' while dining on tacos ๐Ÿ™‚
As to enclosures: The recommended sealed enclosure is just 1/10th of a cubic foot. Without going into a lot of enclosure theory, I would suggest to increase the volume of the box to as much as you're comfortable with. Doubling the volume will net just a bit more bass and at the volumes and power handling expected should be a good compromise.

No reason why your outboard sound card can't be used to send signal to the amplifier. There is no electronic mayhem anticipated. I usually use just the headphone output from the laptop, using a 1/8" (3.5mm?) stereo jack to two RCA phono cable setup. The kids use their phone or Ipod cables.

Mex, don't know your current situation or location, but if cobbling up enclosures for speakers is a hardship, you could just leave them free-standing until you're in a spot to do the job right. Another alternative is to buy a pair of small cabinets from Parts EXpress but that still leaves some assembly and more expense. In a pinch, I've also used cardboard boxes.

Good luck with whatever route you take, music is a nice curative for the soul. I'm about to drop a disc in and kick back. ๐Ÿ™‚
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
westend, I apologize for not replying earlier. I followed your link and said to myself "Wow!" Then the question of what size enclosure to use came up. If you have a recommendation I would love to hear it!

I am going to "move" on this subject next week. Order speakers, cabinet and an amplifier. Another dumb question: I spent twenty dollars on an USB to 3.5 mm "external sound card" for this laptop. It made an amazing difference in clarity and volume with headphones. is this soundcard to be used with an external amplifier?

I am going to do my best to try and keep battery draw under 5 amps. I figure I will be listening to the speakers from a distance of five feet. Maybe young Strauss, softly, from a distance of 20' while dining on tacos ๐Ÿ™‚

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I tried wireless headphones in the RV and it didn't work out. (They work great in the stick house where they are not needed though, so it is something to do with the RV)

The signal kept fading in and out and tuning the thing with the twirler knob and getting a steady green light was only good for a short time and then it would get off tune again.

The transmitter part needs 120v which I tried with MSW and PSW inverter and it didn't matter, it still would not stay tuned. Got fed up and am back to wired headphones.

The reason for needing headphones is hearing the music when the furnace comes on, or for when DW is having a nap.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
My hearing like my eyes is awful. But I cannot understand speech coming out of the laptop speakers To save space I am musing the idea of one powered subwoofer and a pair of horn midrange speakers for the stereo thing plus a midrange like the Peavy for 39 bucks at Parts Express. I'd bet anything my hearing stops at 4K and above. Midrange from around 400 Hz on up would work just fine. Yep, one 6-1/2" subwoofer, one 5" Peavy midrange and a pair of upper-midrange horns. Good enough for who it's for...

Or like I linked to earlier, these Celestion full rangers 95->12K hz and the box tuning in sealed config is .11^3 ft. (cigar boxes). The celestions are 89db efficient which isn't the best but not too bad. That is one watt at one meter for 89db. A T-amp will drive them to ear splitting levels.

FWIW, I have 15" woofers that are 105db and midrange horns, tweeters that are 108db. You don't always need big power to get loud.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
My hearing like my eyes is awful. But I cannot understand speech coming out of the laptop speakers To save space I am musing the idea of one powered subwoofer and a pair of horn midrange speakers for the stereo thing plus a midrange like the Peavy for 39 bucks at Parts Express. I'd bet anything my hearing stops at 4K and above. Midrange from around 400 Hz on up would work just fine. Yep, one 6-1/2" subwoofer, one 5" Peavy midrange and a pair of upper-midrange horns. Good enough for who it's for...

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
There are decent wireless headphones. Wired will give the best sound quality but older ears generally can't tell the difference.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
pnichols wrote:

You can't even drive decent speakers with low amperage - never mind the quality of the analog music storage (I can't believe I mentioned analog) or the lack of compression (ever heard of no compression) digital music storage going to the speakers.

Regarding low amp speakers, I agree with West that this can be done when you want mere few feet field.

As to the analog music storage - perhaps I'm missing something here. With very rare exceptions, nobody stores analog music today. Hardware players like Ipod, Smartphone, WD, laptop etc include Digital-Analog converter. Music is stored digitally, converted to analog, and analog signal goes (through amplifier) to speakers. The biggest losses and interference, in this case, are in the wires before the amplifier, especially when you're running signal to an amplifier via 3.5mm cable.

Ideally, senor Mex should get a newer player.

And, Mex - I'm behind the times with this technology but me thinks that there are some very good wireless earphones. Not "earbuds". Being "umbilicated" with earbuds is not fun, unless you have to move around with them, like an Ipod in workplace, for example ๐Ÿ˜‰

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Niner, my ears for some reason are overly sensitive. When I wear regular earphones and watch a movie my ears hurt. The place I rented here does not have a living room. It has a kitchen table and a bed. A second table serves to do my projects. I thought music would brighten things up but being umbilicalled by earbuds would not be fun. On the mainland the kids borrowed my 45 dollar home theater system and now most of it doesn't work. As long as I can get the stuff I thought I would being I am closer to the border. I am going to try the Lepai, and Parts Express speakers. The most I could be, is wrong...

westend
Explorer
Explorer
pnichols wrote:
Just a bit more morphing:

You can't even drive decent speakers with low amperage - never mind the quality of the analog music storage (I can't believe I mentioned analog) or the lack of compression (ever heard of no compression) digital music storage going to the speakers.

My two front spacial side speakers (I stopped at 3-channel audio) are almost as large as my RV refrigerator ... and take a lot of amps to drive ... preferrably with Class A waveform amps instead of Class B or Class C (heaven forbid) waveforms - which I can't afford. Has anyone here priced triodes or high power solid state output stage (Krell) hardware lately?

True to some extent but you must have come out of the cryogenic state mentioned earlier about the time Class D amplification hit the market.
I too, have speakers the size of residential refrigerators, driven by Class A solid state.

The intention here, though, is a small speaker system capable of good nearfield reproduction.
On this, it more relies on the efficiency of the transducer and using a 12V powered amplifier. No other options need apply. The Texas Instruments Tripath chip amps were discovered, early on, by audio geeks to present a fairly good signal, albeit low powered. That they need 12v at 2 amps was/is a happenstance rather than a sought design feature for a typical user. The Dayton amp Mex linked to earlier would be a good start. IMO, the naked amp board is a better value and may work out as good if a bit of cobbling could be done. The Lepai amps are also a good choice, market share and competition are pushing improvements from Asian makers. There are also an increasing number of T-amps with Bluetooth interface so that's a happy deal for phone- centric folks.

I'm an advocate of single, full-range coned speakers. I have some here that are really good but beyond the budget and scope of this project. There are others, though, that are worthy and will present a better sound than a cheap woofer/tweeter combination in cheap boxes. One has to hear the single point source sound to really get it.

FWIW, I built a pair of speakers using 4" full range drivers and was powering them with a T-amp, using my laptop as source. My then, teenage kids had friends over and I enlisted them as auditioners as their hearing is much better than mine. All of them couldn't believe the sound was not emanating from the laptop's screen, a couple of them even looking behind the screen for the source of the audio voodoo. I knew then what a single full-range driver was capable of doing.

If anyone is in the neighborhood of Mpls/St. Paul and wants to hear what Nora Jones or Miles Davis sounds like with only 12V in the mix, stop on over.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
If you are concerned about power conservation, in the form of amps, ear buds and your smart phone are your best friend. Buy spare Li batteries for the phone.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just a bit more morphing:

You can't even drive decent speakers with low amperage - never mind the quality of the analog music storage (I can't believe I mentioned analog) or the lack of compression (ever heard of no compression) digital music storage going to the speakers.

My two front spacial side speakers (I stopped at 3-channel audio) are almost as large as my RV refrigerator ... and take a lot of amps to drive ... preferrably with Class A waveform amps instead of Class B or Class C (heaven forbid) waveforms - which I can't afford. Has anyone here priced triodes or high power solid state output stage (Krell) hardware lately?
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I will if they don't sneer at the low amperage demand. You labeled exactly what i am afraid of stirring up in the technology forum.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mex, you've opened a can of worms. Audiophiles are a very specific and very opinionated crowd. Now, you want to stir "real" audiophiles against "low-energy" ones like you and/or "compact" ones like those with Ipod docks and 3"x6" speaker bars. Open an audio thread in the Technology forum, really.