Prelube pump

[BrianinMichigan]

Does anyone have one? And how do you hook one into a gas engine? I got thinking as long as my 454 sets over the winter it would be a good Idea to have one for those long setting starts.

[BrianinMichigan]

It sets under a 24 x 36' pole structure I have 120v plugged in all of the time. I'm still waiting to hear from the company that uses a pump to circulate

[MEXICOWANDERER]

An quality aftermarket camshaft with an exceptionally mild grind with roller cam followers will end the flat-cam syndrome faster than you can say "Harmonic Balancer". Something like Bruce Crower's works. Several brands of engines had the sloppiest cam timing a person can conceive of and while 2 degrees of advance or ****** won't flatten the lobes sloppy heat treating will. The 454 series engine, along with Ford's 460 are members of the sloppy timing -other reality- cam lobe profile club. The old FE class Fords, 331-360-390 engines were charter members, the 406 and 427 engines were different animals, but Ford returned to their evil ways with the 428. MoPar ain't exempt. The L3 440 cylinder head valve seats (induction hardened) might have had department supervision by a Borneo cannibal.

Keep in mind unless your rig is stored where there is no 120vac power, your search for a suitable pump is not limited to 12-volts. An 80-PSI bypass (relief) valve is recommended for larger capacity units.

[CJW8]

It has been years but I think the company was Preluber and they were about $600 each. I truly believe they were worth it as I never lost cams and others with 454's were changing cams due to worn lobes about every two years.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

CJW8 wrote:
In my opinion the pump type are better for the following reasons:
1. Can be used for pre and post lubing.
2. Can be used as often and as long as needed. Where as the pressure canister type are a one shot deal unless they have a hand pump.
3. Can easily be used as an oil change pump bu valving.

I had a pair of pumps on a pair of 454 marine engines. Turn on ignition and pump starts and runs until pressure comes up, then turn to start. On shutdown, they run for a pre-determined amount of time and shut off.

Looks like a good plan for the OP - and others(?)

Brand name and (guesswork) cost?

.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

A good system is not inexpensive because the name of the game is not merely to pre-lube the engine but to endure long periods of time running at full engine pump pressures. I would tend to tap an oil pressure gauge pipe thread hole, then fit aeroquip terminated hydraulic hose rated for high temp and low pressure. Such a system needs a bulletproof shut of valve on the inlet and discharge side of the pump so of a leak does develop it does not strand you. Really stout shutoff valves should be located so managing them is a snap. Raise the hood, twist two valves and you are ready for a long day's drive. The last system I built I lucked out and already had a pair of No. 4 Aeroquip hoses, the kind with the stainless steel outer braid. Quarter inch hose dumping into 1/8" threaded holes seems kinda small on the surface, but the system will power-up to full aux pump pressure in about 10-seconds. 20 LBS pressure is plenty. I let the pump run for half a minute to lube pushrods and camshaft lobes. Hope this helps.

[CJW8]

In my opinion the pump type are better for the following reasons:
1. Can be used for pre and post lubing.
2. Can be used as often and as long as needed. Where as the pressure canister type are a one shot deal unless they have a hand pump.
3. Can easily be used as an oil change pump bu valving.

I had a pair of pumps on a pair of 454 marine engines. Turn on ignition and pump starts and runs until pressure comes up, then turn to start. On shutdown, they run for a pre-determined amount of time and shut off.

[BrianinMichigan]

It's not a fuel injected engine. As far as sticking a screw driver down the distributor. I don't want to bother with that much work. I'm looking at a charge tank style and I found one that uses a gear style pump motor that i like but haven't gotten a price on it as of yet.
My motorhome will set for 5-6 months before its started back up. Just trying to do some preventative maintenance.

[Ozlander]

eHoefler wrote:
Since this is a fuel injection engine, just cycle the key without starting several times to get fuel to the throttle body. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump will run for 3-5 seconds, then shut off until the engine is cranked. Just turn the ignition on for 5 seconds and off, repeat.

How does this run the oil pump????

[eHoefler]

Since this is a fuel injection engine, just cycle the key without starting several times to get fuel to the throttle body. When you first turn the key on, the fuel pump will run for 3-5 seconds, then shut off until the engine is cranked. Just turn the ignition on for 5 seconds and off, repeat.

[jplante4]

What happened to the practice of checking a sawed off screwdriver into a drill and running the oil pump through the distributor hole? Pretty sure this works on the 454, not sure about the Ford V10.

[Raften]

I have seen pressure systems that pre lube every time you start the engine but the might not be good for long time storage. Just as above, disable ignition.

[Trackrig]

It would be a lot cheaper to find the right ignition wire or fuse to pull to prevent starting but still turn the engine over with the starter for 30 seconds.

Bill