Propane Bleeder Valve

pauldub wrote:
The bleeder valve on my motorhome's propane tank leaks unless it's tightened with pliers. Seems like I can replace it when the tank is empty and I shouldn't need to have the tank purged as long as I do the replacement pretty quickly. Does that sound right?

Don't tell me I can't do it and have to take it to a propane service.

I replaced both the overflow and vapor valves myself. As others have said, it's not that hard but you do need to follow a few precautions.

First, make absolutely sure the tank is empty and not half full with a bad gauge. You should have only a brief wisp of vapor when you open the overflow.

As others also have mentioned, ventilate both the work area and the interior. Know that the LP alarm may go off but shouldn't remain on after you complete the job and ventilated the interior.

Once the valve is removed, you may get a very stronger LP smell as the mercaptan tends to concentrate as the tank empties. You may continue to smell the mercaptan around the tank even if there is no leaks.

You can also cool the tank prior to removing the valve to lessen any boil-off from what remained in the tank while you change the valve, or you can heat the tank to boil-off the extra through the vapor or overfill to facilitate the emptying of the tank.

My last advice is make sure you have a good way to loosen and properly tighten the new valve as they can be a bear to remove and can take some leverage to tighten. I was told by my supplier that the valve opening are ever so slightly tapered and does require some ompf to fully seat. It was harder to remove the old overfill (seemed like they use some alien made bonding sealer) than it was to install the new one with modern sealers.