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Propane Bleeder Valve

pauldub
Explorer
Explorer
The bleeder valve on my motorhome's propane tank leaks unless it's tightened with pliers. Seems like I can replace it when the tank is empty and I shouldn't need to have the tank purged as long as I do the replacement pretty quickly. Does that sound right?

Don't tell me I can't do it and have to take it to a propane service.
31 REPLIES 31

SDcampowneroper
Explorer
Explorer
The bleeder screw is a mechanical dip tube fill level indicator. OPD valves, gauges can get it wrong, Not an actual level device. There is a tube that goes into the bottle or tank to the 80% full point that will 'spit ' liquid ' at that level.
If it is leaking, it does need serviced, likely just an o ring. The tank will need to be empty or emptied to replace the seal. The short time to do the service should not require purging, however the technician is in charge.
Ive never seen a fee charged for recertification for portable or mounted or leak repair if you refill at that dispensor.

DFord
Explorer
Explorer
pauldub wrote:
Thanks folks. Sounds like it should be as easy as I expected. I'll probably need to wait a month or so until my tank is empty. It's full right now and our only propane usage is for hot water and cooking.


Start using the furnace to empty the tank. Depending on the temps, it may not take long. Once the furnace won't light, it'll be a lot safer to swap that valve.

Use a fan to keep the fumes from collecting if there's no breeze. Every year there's a house that blows up violently because the gas was allowed to accumulate until they found an ignition source. Respect the power of those fumes!
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
wa8yxm wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
How many years since it was certified? If somewhat close to the 12 years mandatory I would just have it updated and stamped.


The mounted tanks on a motor home do not get Re-certs

Luggables do


Are “ALL MOTORHOMES “ equipped with fixed tanks? If they are removable I stand by what I said.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Cummins12V98 wrote:
How many years since it was certified? If somewhat close to the 12 years mandatory I would just have it updated and stamped.


The mounted tanks on a motor home do not get Re-certs

Luggables do
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

pauldub
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks folks. Sounds like it should be as easy as I expected. I'll probably need to wait a month or so until my tank is empty. It's full right now and our only propane usage is for hot water and cooking.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
ItsyRV wrote:

I replaced both the overflow and vapor valves myself. As others have said, it's not that hard but you do need to follow a few precautions.

(snip good stuff...)

My last advice is make sure you have a good way to loosen and properly tighten the new valve as they can be a bear to remove and can take some leverage to tighten. I was told by my supplier that the valve opening are ever so slightly tapered and does require some ompf to fully seat. It was harder to remove the old overfill (seemed like they use some alien made bonding sealer) than it was to install the new one with modern sealers.


Also think about what tools you're using and whether they might possibly produce sparks. I personally know of a case where a building burned to the ground because the propane delivery truck driver had a bit of trouble disconnecting the truck from the tank and used a metal hammer on the wrench to jar it loose. The hammer struck a spark, and from there things took their course. Thankfully no one was injured in the blaze. (The driver was not operating according to company policy, incidentally, which as I recall required the use of a wooden mallet for such cases for that very reason.)

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Cummins12V98 wrote:
navigator2346 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
How many years since it was certified? If somewhat close to the 12 years mandatory I would just have it updated and stamped.


Frame mounted tanks do not need re certification. They fall into a different category than the free standing tanks.


I am not a Motorhome expert but I "ASSUME" they don't all have "Frame Mounted Tanks" ???

The OP did not mention what he has unless I missed it???


He stated he had a motorhome. The LAST motorhome I am aware of that did have DOT tanks was from about 1978/79. Doug

He has a 2004 BT C body cruiser.

ItsyRV
Explorer
Explorer
pauldub wrote:
The bleeder valve on my motorhome's propane tank leaks unless it's tightened with pliers. Seems like I can replace it when the tank is empty and I shouldn't need to have the tank purged as long as I do the replacement pretty quickly. Does that sound right?

Don't tell me I can't do it and have to take it to a propane service.

I replaced both the overflow and vapor valves myself. As others have said, it's not that hard but you do need to follow a few precautions.

First, make absolutely sure the tank is empty and not half full with a bad gauge. You should have only a brief wisp of vapor when you open the overflow.

As others also have mentioned, ventilate both the work area and the interior. Know that the LP alarm may go off but shouldn't remain on after you complete the job and ventilated the interior.

Once the valve is removed, you may get a very stronger LP smell as the mercaptan tends to concentrate as the tank empties. You may continue to smell the mercaptan around the tank even if there is no leaks.

You can also cool the tank prior to removing the valve to lessen any boil-off from what remained in the tank while you change the valve, or you can heat the tank to boil-off the extra through the vapor or overfill to facilitate the emptying of the tank.

My last advice is make sure you have a good way to loosen and properly tighten the new valve as they can be a bear to remove and can take some leverage to tighten. I was told by my supplier that the valve opening are ever so slightly tapered and does require some ompf to fully seat. It was harder to remove the old overfill (seemed like they use some alien made bonding sealer) than it was to install the new one with modern sealers.
1994 Itasca SunDancer 21RB - Chevy G-30 chassis.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
navigator2346 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
How many years since it was certified? If somewhat close to the 12 years mandatory I would just have it updated and stamped.


Frame mounted tanks do not need re certification. They fall into a different category than the free standing tanks.


I am not a Motorhome expert but I "ASSUME" they don't all have "Frame Mounted Tanks" ???

The OP did not mention what he has unless I missed it???
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Oh yeah you hae to take it to a professional to have it fixed. :S

I just had to say it. 😉

I am surprised you have not got it done yet. Let her rip, you will be fine.

navigator2346
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
How many years since it was certified? If somewhat close to the 12 years mandatory I would just have it updated and stamped.


Frame mounted tanks do not need re certification. They fall into a different category than the free standing tanks.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
How many years since it was certified? If somewhat close to the 12 years mandatory I would just have it updated and stamped.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
As Doug said, they just unscrew. Make sure you're working in a well ventilated area with no ignition sources. Have the replacement ready to go with the thread sealer in place, and there's usually a small amount of residual pressure in an "empty" tank that pretty much ensures the tank won't need purging in the few seconds it takes to remove the old valve and thread the new one in.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
First it might not be all that easy. You see the name is not "Bleeder"

It is Visual Overfill Indicator Valve

I would suggest having it replaced by a Propane Professional
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times