I was reading threads here and came across advice that its good to cycle a deep cycle battery once a month? My trailer has (2) 12v batteries and a solar panel that keeps them topped off, regardless of having my battery shut off switch turned off. Is that good or bad? Keep meaning to buy a disconnect for that positive solar wire to make it easy.Worried this might become super long and confusing. Let me lay out the situation with numbers. 1. 99% of the time i use the the trailer its plugged into shore power. 2. The trailer has solar panels and there is no disconnect between the solar and batteries. 3. I go out of town for weeks and unplug the trailer and also sometimes the solar charging wire. 4. (here comes the root of the question) I installed a fan that pulls 1amp. I want this fan to turn off and on several times a day using a 12v digital timer while im gone. So that leads to these questions:1. Should i power the 1amp fan from the main batteries and let the solar keep them charged? Then do a real cycle on the batts once a month or whatever is recommended?2. Since the trailer is 99% shore power should i pull the batteries out and put them in the cooler garage? Power the 1amp fan from a small independent solar panel? (will actually be set to 0.25amps so a small 10w panel should power it i hope. no digital timer the sunrise and sunset will be the timer)

There's no reason to cycle your batteries every month. It might be good to equalize them from time to time but the motion of an RV typically keeps the electrolyte stirred up. Equalizing isn't as big a deal with an RV as it is with a home or cabin battery bank that just sits there in the basement.Keep in mind that you MUST have batteries installed in your trailer to legally pull it down the road. They power the brakes in the event of a breakaway. If you have no batteries your disconnected trailer has no brakes and becomes a dangerous missile.If you have a good solar charge controller that is properly set up for your batteries there's no need to ever unhook it.

There is no benefit to discharging and charging a battery.No need to add complexity, leave the solar and fan connected and let the solar controller do its job.

Could have sworn I was reading a thread where several different people were saying to cycle batteries once a month.Summertime desert temps and using shore power. Pulling out the batts is a waste of time? The garage stays much cooler.

Ni-cad batteries need to be cycled now and then. But flooded lead-acid don't.

wopachop wrote:Could have sworn I was reading a thread where several different people were saying to cycle batteries once a month.Summertime desert temps and using shore power. Pulling out the batts is a waste of time? The garage stays much cooler.Flooded cells can get stratified if sitting on steady float for months between use. Some converters give a boost charge daily or weekly to prevent this. Solar would be in boost mode daily so no issue.Let the fan run and the solar charge every day. This is plenty of cycling to keep the battery in good shape. The fan would be best connected to the solar controller load controlled output in this case as it would cut off fan operation if the battery dropped below the specified voltage.Most solar controllers need to be connected to the battery when operating. Do not disconnect the controller from the battery without first disconnecting the solar panels from the controller.

Pull batts in the summer?--1a draw good for batts w/ solar?

wopachop
Explorer
Jul 05, 2018
Ebay seller has them for $24 out of the UK shipped to USA. Just bought one will take a few weeks. If anyone reads this and wants one just search Hydro Volt on ebay and at this point in time the seller has sold 619 units.
wopachop
Explorer
Jul 03, 2018
Any opinions on the $40 unit?
https://www.altestore.com/store/deep-cycle-batteries/battery-maintenance-tools/hydrovolt-professional-hydrometer-for-deep-cycle-batteries-p11208/
wopachop
Explorer
Jul 01, 2018
Anyone try the Hydro-Volt hydrometer? Cost is around $40 or $50.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkUBffSv2O0
wopachop
Explorer
Jul 01, 2018
I don't understand the part about the hydrometer being on its side.
wopachop
Explorer
Jul 01, 2018
I hoped the EZ option wouldn't suck.
Dag nabbit.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 01, 2018
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 01, 2018
EZ RED is hideous for accuracy and repeatability. Unacceptable. That kit of roofing tar thick crankcase additive and magic pills for the gas tank will plate new metal on the cylinder walls of my car engine, too. EZ REDs claim is pocus hocus.

A Lexan or pyrex flask skinny and narrow can be used to take several incomplete draws to take a real sample. That way you can lay the hydrometer on it's side and end up with enough electrolyte to work with. The tall skinny cylinder has a very wide base for stability.

The difference in density between 1.200 and 1.285 is not great. To reflect it with an arm would take a jeweled swiss precision mechanism.

I checked then rejected a full factory pallet of "SLEEZE E RED" hydrometers. Having 1.242 batteries read 1.275 and 1.285 batteries read 1.255 is not my BAG

They are made in China and go from final hand fitting of the bulb and tube to the shipping dock without being checked. Save your money for a magic 8 ball fortune telling toy. It will be just as reliable.

REVIEWS
Ding Dong. The package arrives. It is torn open and the gizmo is held up for inspection. Then the buyer rushes to the computer to comment.
wopachop
Explorer
Jul 01, 2018
Wow surprised you say that. Ive never seen either in person but after reading reviews it seems like the ez red has advantages. Glad they are only 10 bucks thats awesome. Lots of fun buying new tools!!

Funny because i think my trailer batteries might be sealed.

Is the specific gravity of a charged 12v starting battery for an ATV the same as a deep cycle?

One reason i like the EZred is because of the small tube. They claim it auto compensates for temperature too. One review said he had both styles and they both take a little effort to knock off bubbles and such. He also filled and emptied the fluid a few times to mix it up. Does the battery solution separate?
landyacht318
Explorer
Jun 30, 2018
I found the plastic models like the E red would not read the same on teh same cell twice in a row.

I like the OTC 4619 but one needs to ensure there are no bubbles sticking to the float, and to wait several more seconds to let the thermometer feel the electrolyte temperature so one can add or subtact according to what it says.

Generally cells in the middle after charging will be hotter than those on the ends.

The glass float is fragile, Keep the packaging it is shippe in for storage, and rinse it after each use.

If you get an EZ red, they make nice doorstops.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 30, 2018
wopachop wrote:
Excited to get a hydrometer. I see one has an included thermometer. Doesnt have as good of reviews as the EZ RED. (havnt read the reviews yet)

You guys have a model that you like?

This is all that is needed unless you go all white-coat lab standard.
You just want consistent results each time, which this type does for you. Good enough for RV work.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-battery-hydrometer-0113010p.html#srp

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