PWM 20A charge controller, with LCD and adjustable

pleased with my 10A but it comes in 20A also.

http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Product/pro_content/id/166/am_id/136

A small coin cell type battery can be used to save it's mind if disconnected from the battery.

I bought and use this particular solar charge controller. It has one very unique feature... the voltage show at the top of the LCD is the actual voltage at the battery terminals. You can adjust the voltage to what ever you want, easily.

20 amp PWM adjustable voltage charge controller.

I've used it set at 14.8V with a Trojan T-1275, I've used it set at 16.0V to equalize charge my Trojan T-1275, and I currently leave it set at 14.4V since replacing my T-1275 with a Telecom Surplus 150AH AGM battery.

When the voltage is up all the way to where you set it, at the battery post terminals, you know you are fully charged. Another clue will be the amperage rate the battery is taking a charge at. Low Amperage means the battery is close to full too, in conjunction with voltage not rising.

Has anyone tried this WindyNation one??

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=twister_B015S39JMI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

RV daytrader wrote:
Has anyone tried this WindyNation one??

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=twister_B015S39JMI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have, and it's OK... I still have it as a spare, and prefer the 20 amp one I mentioned above, as being superior.

NinerBikes wrote:
It has one very unique feature... the voltage show at the top of the LCD is the actual voltage at the battery terminals.

Niner,

I don't see remote voltage sense wires for this controller. So I guess the voltage at the terminals is determined by the PWM microprocessor measuring the battery voltage when it intermittently disconnects the solar panels from the battery bank.

Have you been able to verify that the remote voltage measurements are accurate?

Also, from the link above, I see this controller includes a temperature sensor and temperature compensation feature - really nice. But I don't see a temperature probe for attaching to the battery - the pictures show a temperature probe connector but no temperature probe. Do you know how this works?

Thanks,
Ed

I have verified with a Fluke DMM, and it was spot on, Voltage wise, at the terminals. About 6 feet of 10 gauge wire, and I am putting out about 8.5 to 8.9 amps, max.

For $35, you don't get a temperature probe. Nor would I worry about it if you are a weekend dry camper, or go out for a couple of weeks at a time. If you full time, then that's another matter. If it's really cold, less than 40F, see what you need to add to voltage from battery maker to get it fully charged, probably 0.1V more. If it's really hot, over 90F, drop the voltage back by 0.1V to 14.7V.